HopenCagen Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Ok, so i may seem like an idiot but im honestly a little confused. So i bought a kicker comp r like 2 months ago and was running it off a Kenwood KAC0629s and i think it was pretty loud for such a small wattage amp, i bought a new amp Hifonics Brutus brx1100.1d and it seems only a little louder than my previous amp.. The sub says its 2 Ohms but on the basket there is a switch it says 4 ohms and 1 ohm. i currently have it at 4 Ohms because when i switched it to 1 Ohm it started to smell and i didnt know if i was going to blow my sub up lol. but im pretty new to car audio and am just wondering if the amp is running the sub at 4 ohms or 2 , and also how much louder i should expect it to be ( if its running the sub at 2 ohms from my last amp running it at 2 ohms ) if any with this new amp i spent roughly 260 for zero gauge and the amp and if its just not suppose to be that much louder from my old amp ill just return the thing and enjoy my old amp. I have to get terminals and 0 gauge for the big three, and a distribution block for zero gauge to 4 gauge for the amp ( will a distribution block from 0 to 4 have any loss of power?) and hopefully then it will be running at full power and im hoping it will be louder than what it is. plus i gotta set all my gains and stuff properly because theres so many filters that ive never even seen before. but all in all im running a Kicker CompR 12" @ (suposedly 2 Ohms, but the swtich says 4) KnuKoncepts 0 gauge (i know its mostly aluminum but i wanted to try it out if its just a big bottle neck then ill get real 0 gauge) and a custom box tuned to 32.4Hz. So yeah sorry for the long post, im not trolling just new and like to learn as much as i can to make my system the most efficient. Thanks in advance if youve even made it this far lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EP95 Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 You have a Dual voice coil sub, so it can run at either 1 or 4 ohms. set it to 1 and turn the gain on your amp down. seem to have started out pretty well considering youve already got 0 guage wire and a non prefab box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HopenCagen Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Well, i now realize the "2 ohm subwoofer" label doesnt mean anything because the switch is at 4 ohms and theres the other one which has a 2 ohm switch so i got scammed i guess you could say? but my amp runs 4 ohms at 450 watts rms, not 800 watts rms. 1 ohm is too much because of the 1100 watts rms and the peak is only 800 rms for the sub ( but i understand when you mean turn the gain down.) im going to end up buying a new sub anyway that made me a little mad. But thanks for the compliment i researched a little bit and tryed to put togeather what i could the best i could (; Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Yah its dvc2 so u can run at 1 or 4. Set ur gains properly, run at 1, and let it Wang! Would hate to c u ruin ur amp cuz ur gains are set too high. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john253a Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Just ran the sub at 4 ohm On that amp And enjoy it till you get something else Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Facekicker Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 You did not get scammed. The best advice is to run the sub at 1 ohm and adjust the gains on your amp accordingly. Your sub is rated for 800rms and that amp will give you a good amount of headroom. How are your gains/bass boost set now? 2002 Monte Carlo Started a build log Fi, DC, Mechman, XS Power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 Post some pics of your setup On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HopenCagen Posted April 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 My setup is really messy lol. once i get the distribution blocks ill post picks i gotta go put money in the bank and order them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr8handogoatness Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 A sub in a good box will get louder on more power, but it usually isn't night and day. If you were running (random numbers) 300watts and jumped to 500 there wouldn't be a big difference. Box makes the sub stage usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Facekicker Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 He went from a 150w RMS @ 4ohm amplifier to an amp that's 450w RMS @ 4ohm Sub is good for 800w RMS if clean signal. That amp does 1k rms @1 ohm and he probably has his gain/boost maxed since he's not getting the output he wants at 4ohms, that's why it got stinky when he switched it to 1 ohm on the sub. So OP start over, turn your gains and boost down to 0, put your sub at 1 ohm, and raise your gain carefully. DD-1 would be best option since you're playing with a bit of headroom. You can take care of this w/o worrying about your distro blocks but i don't blame you for not taking pics if your wiring is a mess 2002 Monte Carlo Started a build log Fi, DC, Mechman, XS Power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.