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Blew my horn and tweeters


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I'm 100 % sure this was an error on my part. I had four 10 inch Evs a selenium 250-x compression driver frequency range from 500hz and up 2 selenium st200 with a 4.7 Uf cap on each tweeter. I had the 2 EV's in parallel with the driver bridged to two channels on a Lanzar OPTI 250x4 and the other set of EV's bridged with the tweeters everything is 8 ohms one set was running at 2ohms and the other set at 2.6. The amp is 2 ohms stable and amp rating is 200 amp and and the bass amp is also rated at 200, I think my mistake was that the wiring kit I installed 0 gauge came with a 150 amp fuse and I should of upgraded it immediately. I tuned my EQ to my desire everything was sounding great. I was really happy with my setup until everything shut down after 2 tracks. I blew the fuse I went and upgraded the fuse holder and got a stronger fuse, next I notice my horn and drivers are not working, I took apart the driver and there it was fried :(, I tried testing the tweeters with no capacitors and nothing no luck also fried after inspecting them, the retailer where I purchased from will be replacing them for me, but I don't want this to happen again. Did this occur for having the one set of speakers and horns at 2.6 ohms and the other at 2 ohms or did this happened because the fuse blew.

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The fuse blowing doesn't have an impact on the speakers. Fuses are to protect humans via protecting wires and preventing fires etc. you should fuse according to the size of wire you have.

Were you running left and right channels at different impedance levels?

Are you running active, or how were you crossing everything over?

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The fuse blowing doesn't have an impact on the speakers. Fuses are to protect humans via protecting wires and preventing fires etc. you should fuse according to the size of wire you have.

Were you running left and right channels at different impedance levels?

Are you running active, or how were you crossing everything over?

one of the bridge channels were running at 2 ohms and the other 2.6 ohms.

I'm crossing over on the amp.

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I thought the capacitor I was using on the tweeter would filter out any frequency that can cause damage to the tweeter.

Not indefinitely. Caps help don't get me wrong, but they aren't fail safe.

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I thought the capacitor I was using on the tweeter would filter out any frequency that can cause damage to the tweeter.

Not indefinitely. Caps help don't get me wrong, but they aren't fail safe.

I spoke to a friend that has a smilier setup, he informed me he blew his like 3 times and then he used a separate amp just for the tweeters and horns, since EV's can handle the power, Im thinking it had to do with a mix of the frequency since it was too low for tweeters and high gain. I just want to get it right on my second try. My music sounds awful without the tweeters and horn. My retailer already shipped out the driver and tweeters.

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I think if you download WinISD that it has a passive filter calculator.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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