greezychef Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 i have a small system in a cadillac ats. my amps are a rf t1500 and a rf punch 300. up until it started to get warm outside and i had to start running my a/c the car held power perfectly but lately ive been dipping down to 12.5 even seen it hit 12.2. my question is, would this kit help: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74888_XS-Power-XP750-CK.html i really like its compactness. i have limited space to work with. anything else i would need to install it? i would like to hold 14 all day long. thats my goal anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Well we need a little more info. what the final impedance on the 1500? what battery in The stock location? Needs to be a good agm big 3? Should be 4gauge at least 0 gauge being better ofc. what size alt? what size wiring front to back? For the 1500 at least 4 gauge I recommend 0 gauge and ofc of course. seeing how voltage ain't to bad right now I'm going to assume ground is solid. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greezychef Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 t1500 is at 1 ohm 300 at 4 ohm neither is turned up 1/4 of the way no big 3 stock battery is in the trunk and is a bitch to get to. unsure of battery specs all amp power wire is 4 gauge very short runs of wire less then 2 foot, stock battery is literally with 24 inches of the amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 No 12V battery, or amount thereof is going to allow you to hold 14V. Your total system wattage is > 2k rms and your dipping down to the lower 12's first thing to do is upgrade your big 3 Alt + to battery + Alt case to frame or strut tower (frame > strut tower but not all people have that option) Bat - to frame or strut tower Also if you end up making runs longer than 2 ft I would do them in 1/0 and if you are using 4ga hopefully it's OFC. Edit: Front to back run should be 1/0 OFC as this will help with system output, but not really maintaining 14V Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Your alternator is what keeps things running at 14.4 or whatever you charge at. When electrical demand exceeds whatever your alternator can produce amperage/voltage wise, you turn to reserve which is battery power. If you held a silid 12.6 - 12.9 or whatever your battery rests at then you would know that between your battery and alternator they are getting the job done. A better battery may help you hold the high 12's better, but to get 14V "all day" as you say, a capable alternator is the only way to go. One of if not the hardest lessons to learn in car audio is that to do things right and make sure you have solid electrical its a bitch to go from 1k or less total rms to 1500 or 2k or more. That's when many vehicles OEM electrical become insufficient. Some even earlier. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greezychef Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 thank you. very good info here. very new to the hobby. this is not the car to start out with. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greezychef Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 what worries me is that i play my music very loud for a long time. wasnt paying attention the other day and looked down and voltmeter read 11.9 thats real bad for my amp? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 what worries me is that i play my music very loud for a long time. wasnt paying attention the other day and looked down and voltmeter read 11.9 thats real bad for my amp? 11.9 is bad for everything including your car. First, most, (not all) aftermarket car audio volt meters are crap. Are you using a DMM or how are you getting your readings, and from what point in the vehicle? Watts = volts x amperage so as voltage drops, your amplifier(s) draws more amperage. This creates heat in both the amp and the wire. It's bad for your OEM electrical and could leave you stranded eventually. Possibly even on fire in some cases. Idk if you mentioned what you have hooked up to your sub amp, but if you are at 1 ohm you may want to consider wiring it up to 4 if you have that option. Yes that means less output but it means you will be safer also. . PS. when you become a true basshead, air conditioning is over rated anyways. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Ok, first off all 11.9 isn't that bad. Not good but not the worst. secondly, volt x amps = va (voltamps) not watts. third, the t1500.1bdcp pulls 100amps on average playing music. The 300 will be around 30-40amps. So you have roughly (over estimate) 150 amps of draw. the battery might be hard to get to but its not wise to mix batteries and between the big 3 and a good agm batt in the stick location should be good enough to keep you above 12.8-13v. Which is good voltage and most would kill to see that voltage. also by amp is 1/4 the way up in assuming you mean the gain. get it set correctly with a dd1 or oscope you can find someone in your area by google searching smd tool locator or smd tool map. Should find a map of everyone/where that has a scope, dd1, dmm, meter etc etc... make sure you aren't using boost such as the punch eq. All boosts/loud featured need to be off and all the way down. High gain and use of boost create clipping and can cause lower voltage. make sure you measure voltage at the amp with a dmm or good quality voltage meter like suggested though. If not then the amp is seeing lower voltage then where you measured most likely. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 If you want to stay above 14v then you have some options but they aren't cheap. 1. Ho alt, best places is dc, mechman, mike singer alts 2. Voltage boost module 3. Ho alt and voltage boost module or external regulator 4. Colder climate so that your car stays cooler and the alt charges higher. Maybe somewhere that you won't need ac. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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