Stock HU, Line Out Converter, Dummy Load

[ROLEXrifleman]

If you need to make it think it sees a load determine what ohm load you need and get a resistor 3-5 times greater in wattage rating so that it wont overheat on prolonged play.

The resistor will load down the radio but will transform the wattage to heat.

you can get a pair of resistors for around $8

Okay now repeat that but in Engrish please lol. I need it to see a 4 ohm load I would assume. What size resistor would you say?

How much power is that HU putting out? Or is it an amplified factory system?

I would get two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Chassis-Aluminum-Wirewound-Resistor/dp/B008IE2F44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398994662&sr=8-1&keywords=100+watt+resistor

and use them in place of the speaker. If your factory system is pushing more than than 100 watts i would get four 8ohm versions and wire two down to 4 ohms to have 200 watts of power. The resistors are not polarity sensitive so it doesnt matter what side is + or -

other than that just make sure they are tucked in a spot where teh heat wont effect anything

[OrionStang]

So, speaker negative to one side, speaker positive to the other, doesn't matter which end?

[ROLEXrifleman]

So, speaker negative to one side, speaker positive to the other, doesn't matter which end?

Correct

On any resistor it doesn't matter. Technically the resistor creates a dead short and dumps the energy as heat.

[OrionStang]

So, speaker negative to one side, speaker positive to the other, doesn't matter which end?

Correct

On any resistor it doesn't matter. Technically the resistor creates a dead short and dumps the energy as heat.

Can you still grab that signal from the speaker wire for the LOC? Before the resistor?

[ROLEXrifleman]

So, speaker negative to one side, speaker positive to the other, doesn't matter which end?

Correct

On any resistor it doesn't matter. Technically the resistor creates a dead short and dumps the energy as heat.

Can you still grab that signal from the speaker wire for the LOC? Before the resistor?

yes you could

but remember that the the resistor is one load (ohm) and the LOC will be putting another load on the circuit. those two combined will present a different load to the source since you now have created a paralleled circuit. I don't think it will be an issue and I'm not even sure what type of load an LOC presents.

[IBleedMusick]

If you need to make it think it sees a load determine what ohm load you need and get a resistor 3-5 times greater in wattage rating so that it wont overheat on prolonged play.

The resistor will load down the radio but will transform the wattage to heat.

you can get a pair of resistors for around $8

Okay now repeat that but in Engrish please lol. I need it to see a 4 ohm load I would assume. What size resistor would you say?

How much power is that HU putting out? Or is it an amplified factory system?

I would get two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Chassis-Aluminum-Wirewound-Resistor/dp/B008IE2F44/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398994662&sr=8-1&keywords=100+watt+resistor

and use them in place of the speaker. If your factory system is pushing more than than 100 watts i would get four 8ohm versions and wire two down to 4 ohms to have 200 watts of power. The resistors are not polarity sensitive so it doesnt matter what side is + or -

other than that just make sure they are tucked in a spot where teh heat wont effect anything

No more that maybe 15w per channel and I doubt even that.

[IBleedMusick]

My plan was to get 6 of these run wire into them and then pull 6 channels out of it for the LC6i. The stock HU can't be producing that much power so I was going to mount these under the rear deck now I should be able to pull the signal properly and run new wires to my speakers like I want, correct?