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94 Ford Beast-350 OBS CCLB - Motor is done, need to sell, questions-please help


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Continuing on, let's clean the intake.

Not 100% sure what this piece is called, but it needed to come off.

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So do all of these other sensors, and vaccum trees.

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And now for the gasket for the throttle body.

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After a little wire wheel action on the air angle grinder. Good as new!

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Clean up the thermostat area.

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Time to get serious! This is gross!! This is the underside which is above the valley, obviously.

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Let the degreaser sit on it for a while. Rubbed it down with a wire brush to agitate the oil.

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And bam! Not bad for a first round!

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Little more love on one side and the ends with the wire wheels.

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And here is the finished product! Nice and clean!!

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That was it for one night. Next I have to do the top.

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While she sits and soaks, I decided to utilize my time, and move onto a different project that needs to get soaking as well.

Fuel injectors!! So to do this, I bought some picks from harbor freight, although I didn't really need them but you all know what it's like to get new toys!! Got lots of those. Harbor Freight is EVIL!!!!!!!!!!! So, Picks, screwdrivers (flat and phillips head), a pair of needle nose pliers a utility knife and a #8 machine screw. I was told a #10 wood screw would work as well, however, this is what I had laying around. Oh also going to need some gloves and rags!

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First cut the hat, just on the side and top if you'd like.

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With the flat head screwdriver, pop the top off. It should come off pretty easily.

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Then pull off the o-ring and the plastic washer. Pick isn't necessary for this, they just come off pretty easily.

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on the other end, you can use the pick and pull that o-ring off, because there's a lip on the other side.

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Next take your screw and phillips head screwdriver and screw it into the basket on the end with the lip. The other end is closed with 4 holes in it, so there's really only one end to choose from.

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Next, pull with your pliers and bam, it's out. You'll maybe have to wiggle it back and forth, it's a pretty tight fit.

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7 more times and this is what you're left with!!

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Next find a container to put them in, preferably one with a lid. I actually thought I had an 8 x 8 foil pan left over from Thanksgiving, but apparently it got used. SO, Pyrex glass pan here we come. Lined it with foil, although later on that didn't work cause I must have punctured it somehow. Line your injectors up, I did anyway to keep them in an order the way they came out.

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Next you'll fill the container with this stuff. Berryman B-12 Chemtool. It's kind of nasty stuff. I got this and one more at O'reilly Autoparts.

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Fill the container just over the top of the injectors. This took two of those cans above. Immediately the gunk started coming off of the outside. That's why the color is so dark. The B-12 pours out clear.

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Now, cover it with your container lid, or in my case I just covered it with foil and let it sit. You can let it sit for a day or two. I've been told not to leave them for more than 2 days. Not sure why, but part of the body is plastic and like I said, this is pretty nasty stuff. So, cover it and head back to another project.

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Back to the intake. Wire wheel, wire brushes, degreaser, and a sponge and this was the end result. I'm happy.

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What is this? Another new toy. WOOT! Parts washer. I put it on the workbench because the legs looked a little wobbley to me, and I quite frankly didn't have enough room to put it down anywhere.

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Let's clean up these rockers and rods. I put some zipties on the ends of the rods so that i would remember which side was up. Remember these came out in order and they need to go back in same order. I didn't change the cam or the rods or rockers so they're broke in where they were. Plus this box was a bit deeper than the last box so I had to make sure they didn't drop in, lol

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Just to see the difference, the clean one is on the right, and the dirty one on the left.

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Made my own soaking tray. The blue one sat on brackets and the only way to drop it down into the solution was to tilt it and that caused things to move a round a bit. I didn't want that so I had this bbq grill screen I bought from Home Depot a long time ago. Couple zipties and we have a home made drop in tray.

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After a night of soaking, I pulled them out and cleaned them one by one.

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Just like new.

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Now to address this disaster!!

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This is the driver side cover. This one sat out and you can see the inside began to mildew and rust. We'll take care of that!

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These will soak in here for a while.

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More of the rocker arms and rods.

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Putting them back into a new tray, back in order. These bad boys are ready to go back in, when it's time. But not now.

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After soaking for a few days, it's time to clean this thing up. You can see how alot of grime has raised up and is ready to get cleaned off.

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Before I did that I had to take a few pics of the schematic stickers on the side.

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Now a little love with a couple of brushes, no wire wheel this time. Most of the grime is off, but this isn't going to work for me. Gonna have to get real with this thing!

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So I got the wire wheels out and went to work!!

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I decided that the bolts were no good. Well the bolts were ok, but the rubber washers were pretty bad, and since I'm replacing most of the bolts with ARP black bolts, I figured why not. Actually the kit I bought came with bolts for a non EFI model. I shot an email to the guys at ARP, and they said send the other ones in, and we'll exchange them straight up for the ones you need. So, I little hint to anyone doing this on an EFI, and you get the ARP accessories bolts, it does not come with these. When you order, if you order straight from ARP, ask them to swap them out there. I ordered mine from Summit Racing, so I had to email directly to ARP. But great outstanding customer service!!

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Let's get back to those injectors. They've been in their bath for a couple of days now so i needed to get them out. Next order of business is to blow them out. In order to do that I have to open them up. To do this, I have a 9V battery. DO NOT USE THE 12V CAR BATTERY, IT CAN RUIN THE INJECTOR! This stuff cost me $10. A new injector costs about $30 - $50 depending on what kind you go with.

So 9V battery, alligator clips, and battery connector. Also, a new air nozzle with a rubber tip and rags.

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I made a pig tail for this, using the alligator clips, some SHCA Primary Wire I had laying around (SHCA FTMFW), and the battery connector. Soldered them all together, threw some heat shrink on, and you wind up with this.

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Now, let's get these babies out of the bath.

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Nice and clean

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On the side of the connector housing, you'll see that one side has a +, and the other side has nothing. The + is for the positive. Here's the part number for the injector too if you're looking for a replacement.

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Red to Positive

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Black to negative. It should click when you connect the black. It won't like blow up in your hand or anything. Just a small click, much like a relay would sound like when activated.

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Now, take your air nozzle, hole it tight on the end where the basket was you pulled out, and blow!! I would suggest blowing into a rag or paper towel. That way you don't get chemicals on your work bench or in the air, or worse in the face. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES!!!

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Once they're all cleaned out you're ready to start rebuilding. Now, you could save yourself some hassle if you want to and send these in to be done. It costs about $17-20 per injector plus shipping. The benefit to this is, they have a special machine that tests them etc, charts flow, stuff like that. If I were going to keep this thing, I would've spent the $150 to have them do it so I knew they were going to be like new. But, I decided to do them myself instead.

Mr. Injector is a great place to go to find replacement parts. There's his card, website, phone number, no that's not OUR Bill Johnson. But his website is full of information. I'd recommend at least visiting it if your even thinking of doing this.

Got all of my parts ready.

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This is how they'll go on, in this order. Start at either end, but they go on like this.

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Tap the basket in with a socket extension or something heavy enough to get it in, but not hard enough to damage it. You just are tapping it not pounding it. Make love to it, don't hump it like a hooker!!

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Slide the O-Ring on and that side is done.

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Next Side. Slide the plastic collar on

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followed by the O-Ring.

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And then the cap. Now, the cap is a little tricky because it's tight. This is where the website I mentioned above comes in very handy! They suggest heating it a little with a heat gun, and then using a socket or something solid to push down on.

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A 9MM fits over the hat nice and snug. Not much movement so there's no risk in flipping it and ruining the hat and or injector.

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Push down like so.

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You should feel it pop into place. Check to make sure, I didn't get a picture of this, that the 4 holes are within the hole in the hat.

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And you're one down, 7 more to go.

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