wagonwes Posted May 28, 2014 Report Posted May 28, 2014 I have seen more than a few people here running a separate run of 0 ga (or more than one) from the front to rear instead of just grounding to chassis. I was only able to find one person who attempted quantifying this with actual data. I get the reasoning behind it - the copper has less resistance than the steel frame. But does anyone have any hard numbers of before and after doing this (db gains or voltage drop improvements would be stellar)? Are there other reasons?
wagonwes Posted May 30, 2014 Author Report Posted May 30, 2014 Nobody huh? Is it more of a "more wire must be better" mentality; buy a few spools and say why not run this for ground as well?
axevon Posted May 30, 2014 Report Posted May 30, 2014 I believe Tony Damore or CE auto electric supply did a video of it awhile back. Can't remember the results but it directly addresses this edit:http://youtu.be/_Bpdh2BD-qI Dorm room setup: SQ SDC2.5 12" @ 8 ohms Klipsch 300 watt home theater sub amp Marantz 1030 amplifier Future car build: Audio Technix 1200.1d Fi SSD 12 w/ cooling and flatwind coil 6th order dual reflex enclosure
TRON Posted May 30, 2014 Report Posted May 30, 2014 Tony + Tony = Win. Avalanche Alpine Type S comps Alpine Type S 10'' Alpine MPR-F300 Alpine MRX-M50 Mechamn 270 XS Power d3400s
RiottStarr Posted May 30, 2014 Report Posted May 30, 2014 SkyHighCarAudiomhas us covered on the 2/0...
Noel989 Posted May 30, 2014 Report Posted May 30, 2014 Tony + Tony = Win. I think the answer is 2tony His threads always makes everybody think Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/
Karkov Posted May 30, 2014 Report Posted May 30, 2014 A good ground to frame is more than good enough for a ground. Don't waste money on running a negative to the front of the vehicle IMO 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
philrab Posted May 30, 2014 Report Posted May 30, 2014 When I installed my mono amp, I ended up using the spot and bolt that originally secured one of the cargo hooks in my hatch (that I'm assuming you could use ratchet straps or rope to hold something down with, fairly beefy.) I removed the carbo hook, sanded down the bracket, and used the original bolt to secure the terminal on the ground wire. Just out of curiosity, I took my DMM and checked resistance from the negative terminal of my amp to the seat mounting bolt on the opposite end of the hatch (as far from the ground point as possible.) I can't recall what I measured, but the resistance was extremely minimal, so I concluded (apparently correctly) that I was firmly grounded to the unibody and another ground run back to the battery wasn't needed. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes.
wagonwes Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Posted June 2, 2014 That video was great. A little surprised, glad I didn't waste the money.
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