Capacitors. Lights, Dimming, Action!

[White Lightning]

Before I went that far, I'd install a relay on each headlight (lows and highs) to see if that fixes your problem.

Installing relays should lighten the load (strain) of your electircal system.

How?

Same way you would wire up ballast / HIDS. Every ballast should have a relay.

Only difference is to connect back to stock lighting.

[Jessica]

Before I went that far, I'd install a relay on each headlight (lows and highs) to see if that fixes your problem.

Installing relays should lighten the load (strain) of your electircal system.

How?

Same way you would wire up ballast / HIDS. Every ballast should have a relay.

Only difference is to connect back to stock lighting.

But the light still needs the same power, relays don't generate any so I still have to get it from somewhere. I have an extra relay I can try on the low beam side but I doubt it would help.

[White Lightning]

Take the wire you have going to your left low beam circuit and install it to a relay. Then the current from the low beam will draw directly from your battery and not your electrical. Your origional wire will now only act as a turn on/off wire.

Do this for every head light circuit. Should be a total of four relays.

I think it will help your head lights AND be better for your electrical.

[Jessica]

I am pretty sure you run a relay with a ballast cause factory wiring is usually not good enough. So you use stock wiring to close a relay and run new bigger wire to and from the relay. Or am I wrong.?

[White Lightning]

Yes, I installed better cables to my headlight setup.

[audiofanaticz]

I am pretty sure you run a relay with a ballast cause factory wiring is usually not good enough. So you use stock wiring to close a relay and run new bigger wire to and from the relay. Or am I wrong.?

semi wrong.

Typically the relay harness's are only fused at 10-15 amps anyways due to the ballast(s) start up and warm up. Which is when they require the most current.

Other than that, a 55watt ballast generally uses about the same if not less current than your typical 55watt high beam. Same goes for 35 watt ballasts.

Also HID ballasts can run at full brightness down to 9-10 volts depending on ballast of coarse, but thats usually the ratings on many. 9-16volt dc input.

Many vehicles a relay harness is not needed, but I almost always use one to make it worry free.

The relay harness is more less there for other reasons such as DRL that use the headlight bulb with a pwm to achieve a dimmer bulb which would screw with hid ballasts, so a relay will fix that issue and kind of over ride the DRLs and give you full light output all the time.

Some vehicles have error messages when you use HID due to bulb outage warning lights, or will sense the headlights not using as much power and kick a dummy light, sometimes the relay harness will fix this, othertimes you need to add a capacitor inline like on newer dodge vehicles that will cause the hids to strobe, other times a resistor inline to trick that dummy light on a dash. But you can also buy error elinimator kits for 15+$ or ad a simple 80cent capacitor or resistor.

Then you have things like canbus, which is a whole other story.

[audiofanaticz]

You also have LED headlights now (race sport) is making some somewhat decent kits as well, very similar to an HID setup because they require a ballast, and have little cooling fans on the bulbs.

But another option too.

[Jessica]

Well I'm not running hid's. I'm just using old fashion glass halogens. The car us an 87. So like20 amps for low beam 15 for high beam

[White Lightning]

Do you have dual headlights? (one for lows and one for highs one each side of the vehicle) or single headlight on each side of the vehicle ?? Can't remember ...

[Jessica]

One on each side.so I want to try one cap for highs and one for lows