making my own "reducers"

[Aj11]

i was laying in bed last night thinking about my upcoming build. (trying to not think about my dog) i want to do dual runs of 0g power and ground for all 3 amps. 2 take 0g the other 4g. instead of spending $120 on the dual inputs and reducers... can't i just get some brass, aluminum, Copper screws about 6/8mm thick stick it in the + and - input at the amp and throw a terminal ring on the end of the wire then add 2 wires then throw on a bolt on the end so the terminal rings won't come off? i don't really see why it would be any different then the pricey reducers. Copper is Copper.. brass is brass... it May not look as clean but the way my amp rack will be you won't see them anyway!

if anyone is confused I'll take a pic tomorrow of my idea. just don't feel life spending $120 when i can get the job done for $10

plus if we so it with battery terminals why not amps?

I pretty much want to put a stinger GM side post battery adapter in my amp so i can double up my wires... that should clear it up.

thoughts?

[mmets]

I understand what you saying and think it could work but my only concern would be the amount of contact. I have a set of 1/0 to 4 gauge reducers for my 175.4. The reducer takes all the 1/0 and then reduces it to a 4 gauge slug if you will. If you just have a terminal ring on the end there you really don't have much contact if that makes sense. Also you may have to trim the top of ring, closest to the amp, so it doesn't touch and short out. Just my thought though but could work.

[Aj11]

there are lugs on either end. i would be more then careful that the + & - wouldn't touch. this is just a standard battery extender on the pic. but it gives you the idea. i would use a bolt as thick as 0g and as thick as the 4g. sandwiched between two bolts like when people build boxes and make there own terminals so They can change the ohm load of there subs. same exact thing!

the wires in the pic aren't connected to anything this is just a quick example of what I'm thinking about. I've already spent way to much money! really don't want to drop another $120 on aluminum!

[Aj11]

but sandwiched like this. exactly like this. i don't see why not. i mean it works here why not there? only thing is keeping them away from one another... right?

[mmets]

I see what your saying now. I was thinking you were trying to do them on the top with the set screws and not the side. As long as they don't touch and wont move then I don't see why they wouldn't work just like a reducer. You are right though they do look a little ugly but as long as you don't see them from how your amp rack is then you should be fine. if you want to later spend the money on reducers you can if you want but I don't see you having to right now.

[Aj11]

oh haha yea using the screw would be odd. but i won't use the thing i used to demonstrate with. just had that laying around for the demo. i think i could make it look nice. but the way building the amp rack all you will see is the under side of the guts. that's it, no heatsink wires logo nothing. just glowing amp guts. i won't be doing dual runs for my ct 60.4 just upgrading to 0g for both. but each 1400.1 will have dual + & -

i put money on it that they will.preform the exact same just the look will suffer.

ok sweet thanks for the help man just saved me $100 bucks!

[mmets]

If you do aluminum you can always polish it up some and make it look good also.

[_paralyzed_]

Dual runs to a 5000 watt amp makes sense. 4 gauge is completely adequate to carry 1400 watts. 0 gauge is already overkill for 1400 watts. Dual runs for 1400 watts is completely unnecessary and won't gain you anything. If saving money is something you desire, just use one run.

[bassaddiction]

i ever understood why any one would put solid parts in a terminal like that bc there will be much less contact area. when u press on a wire it spreads out touching the hole thing

[Aj11]

its more then 1400w and if so why doesn't it have 4g inputs? anyway that's why I'll be using the biggest bolt the amp input will allow. the actual reducers have very small.contact.points.

the dual run from rear battery to Amps and both

grounds still aren't as expensive as the actual rreducers. it will be dual 0g from front bat to rear then dual again to the amps. you can't give a amp to much wire. I'm feeding the battery really. the extra 6ft of wire isn't a big deal. especially if i only spend $12 to do it ; )

not to mention that the screw pushes the wire down. the wire isn't all around three inside of the terminal. its on the bottom and the screw... like the bolt would be. even then were talking about

.000001 ohms of resistance caused by that. but the dual runs again would make that void.

thanks for the input guys.

I'll be sure to tell everyone with 0g inputs that they wasted there money on 0g and should get 4g... because that's enough ; )