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Fried amp, sub, tweeter. ONLY 1 CHANNEL! (Pics)


adreano17

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Posted

I have taken Several troubleshooting steps to pinpoint what the fuck has happened to my system.

Initial post: My 4ch amp worked perfectly for over a year (Polk Audio PA D4000.4). Got in car heard a whine noise. It got progressively louder as I drove down the road. Then I smelled that electronic cooking smell. Pulled over and pulled the fuse. Did some troubleshooting between yesterday and today, and am stumped.

It does NOT go into protect mode when:

Speaker leads are in

nothing connected except for power, ground and Remote

when RCAs are connected and all channels are connected except the one channel that went haywire.

it DOES go into protect when:

RCAs are connected.

when RCAs are connected and all channels are NOT connected except the one channel that went haywire.

I switched to a ground that is BEEFY. Straight to the chassis. Sanded down, good solid connection. Still the results do not change.

__________________________________________

A day later, the amp worked fine and didn't go into protect mode at all. Checked my crossovers and opened my amp. One ceramic resistor in the crossover has burned up. (The crossover still works fine now that I checked it.)

Opened my amp, and I see some melted components. I can still smell the burning smell residue in both the crossover and amp.

I need help on knowing what the components are in the amp, should they be replaced, or are they still functional? Above alll...why did my system do this???? BTW...my tweeter is completely fried.

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Pioneer AVH-p5700DVD | MB Quart Onyx ONX4.125 | 6.5 Alpine Type-S component & 6x9 3-way | Hifonics Brutus brz1700.1d | 2 - 12" Kicker L7 | Custom box tuned to 36 hz | 220A Mechman Alternator | 1/0 OFC Welding all the way back | Big 3 | 2 Farad Tsunami Cap | Deka 9a34 | 20% Tint | 6000K HIDs | Yellow Projector Fogs | Dual Out Magnaflow

Posted

clearly there was too much current, but why? it did fine for over a year. I may have been using a fuse that was too big to pop, but regardless, why the increase in current, especially when the radio was off and nothing was coming from the RCAs

IMAG0023-1-1-1.jpg

Pioneer AVH-p5700DVD | MB Quart Onyx ONX4.125 | 6.5 Alpine Type-S component & 6x9 3-way | Hifonics Brutus brz1700.1d | 2 - 12" Kicker L7 | Custom box tuned to 36 hz | 220A Mechman Alternator | 1/0 OFC Welding all the way back | Big 3 | 2 Farad Tsunami Cap | Deka 9a34 | 20% Tint | 6000K HIDs | Yellow Projector Fogs | Dual Out Magnaflow

Posted

Bump.

IMAG0023-1-1-1.jpg

Pioneer AVH-p5700DVD | MB Quart Onyx ONX4.125 | 6.5 Alpine Type-S component & 6x9 3-way | Hifonics Brutus brz1700.1d | 2 - 12" Kicker L7 | Custom box tuned to 36 hz | 220A Mechman Alternator | 1/0 OFC Welding all the way back | Big 3 | 2 Farad Tsunami Cap | Deka 9a34 | 20% Tint | 6000K HIDs | Yellow Projector Fogs | Dual Out Magnaflow

Posted

I know. But people stopped responding. Probably because they thought it was already resolved. This is new information.

IMAG0023-1-1-1.jpg

Pioneer AVH-p5700DVD | MB Quart Onyx ONX4.125 | 6.5 Alpine Type-S component & 6x9 3-way | Hifonics Brutus brz1700.1d | 2 - 12" Kicker L7 | Custom box tuned to 36 hz | 220A Mechman Alternator | 1/0 OFC Welding all the way back | Big 3 | 2 Farad Tsunami Cap | Deka 9a34 | 20% Tint | 6000K HIDs | Yellow Projector Fogs | Dual Out Magnaflow

Posted

there is nothing else to add

that amp is cheap and chinese, you prob beat on it for a year or more til it quit

You need a new amp, that thing aint worth fixin

But before you install anything, you need to make sure all of your wiring is correct so you do not cook the new amp

In your other thread I said to pull the rca cable out and make sure it is not pinched anywhere or spliced open,

Did you do that?

Did you try any of the advice in that other thread of yours?

or just ignore all and hope for some magic answer where you do not have to do anything?

also you couldve added your new info to your old thread and bumped it that way

Posted

there is nothing else to add

that amp is cheap and chinese, you prob beat on it for a year or more til it quit

You need a new amp, that thing aint worth fixin

But before you install anything, you need to make sure all of your wiring is correct so you do not cook the new amp

In your other thread I said to pull the rca cable out and make sure it is not pinched anywhere or spliced open,

Did you do that?

Did you try any of the advice in that other thread of yours?

or just ignore all and hope for some magic answer where you do not have to do anything?

also you couldve added your new info to your old thread and bumped it that way

Yeah, your're probably right about the piece of shit amp. Didn't think polk would be so terrible but they are. I am definitely in the process of making sure everything else is fine with the system. The RCAs are fine, I did check. The fuse blew at the dblock so it probably def is that amp that just went stupid.

Yes, I probably could have posted in the old thread, but I was rushing and wasn't really thinking. LOL

IMAG0023-1-1-1.jpg

Pioneer AVH-p5700DVD | MB Quart Onyx ONX4.125 | 6.5 Alpine Type-S component & 6x9 3-way | Hifonics Brutus brz1700.1d | 2 - 12" Kicker L7 | Custom box tuned to 36 hz | 220A Mechman Alternator | 1/0 OFC Welding all the way back | Big 3 | 2 Farad Tsunami Cap | Deka 9a34 | 20% Tint | 6000K HIDs | Yellow Projector Fogs | Dual Out Magnaflow

Posted

Buy a Korean build 4 channel.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

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Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

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