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skar t2000.1d stable at .5ohm


bassman619

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I just wanted to throw my two cents in here. I have two HDC3 10's 2 ohm DVC's that I have had wired down to .5 ohm (.6 on the multimeter) for roughly a year and a half now. The original 1600.1 Soundstream Rubicon that I had didn't like it and ended up frying. I have now been running a Skar t2000.1d for roughly a month and a half with a stock 110A alternator, full 0 AWG KnuKonceptz, and an XS D3400 secondary. Haven't seen voltage drop below roughly 12v (IIRC) at full tilt and the amp hasn't shown any signs of getting hot with a couple hour long drives a few times a week with times of full tilt playing for a few songs.. Just wanted to inform everyone of the results of .5 so far on this amp. Like mentioned above, with box rise and what not, the amp is probably seeing closer to 1 ohm if not a bit above rather than being close to .5.

Just to add, as much as I would love to guinea pig this amp for another few month at .5 ohm, it isn't in the budget to blow an amp right now so I will likely be wiring it up to 2 ohm in the next week or so until I can sell some randoms in my garage to snag another 2000.1d. That is unless, Skar wants to hook me up with a new amp to guinea pig this one for them :P

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I just wanted to throw my two cents in here. I have two HDC3 10's 2 ohm DVC's that I have had wired down to .5 ohm (.6 on the multimeter) for roughly a year and a half now. The original 1600.1 Soundstream Rubicon that I had didn't like it and ended up frying. I have now been running a Skar t2000.1d for roughly a month and a half with a stock 110A alternator, full 0 AWG KnuKonceptz, and an XS D3400 secondary. Haven't seen voltage drop below roughly 12v (IIRC) at full tilt and the amp hasn't shown any signs of getting hot with a couple hour long drives a few times a week with times of full tilt playing for a few songs.. Just wanted to inform everyone of the results of .5 so far on this amp. Like mentioned above, with box rise and what not, the amp is probably seeing closer to 1 ohm if not a bit above rather than being close to .5.

Just to add, as much as I would love to guinea pig this amp for another few month at .5 ohm, it isn't in the budget to blow an amp right now so I will likely be wiring it up to 2 ohm in the next week or so until I can sell some randoms in my garage to snag another 2000.1d. That is unless, Skar wants to hook me up with a new amp to guinea pig this one for them :P

Just to clarify, amplifier engineers are fully aware of impedance rise when they rate their amplifiers.

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I just wanted to throw my two cents in here. I have two HDC3 10's 2 ohm DVC's that I have had wired down to .5 ohm (.6 on the multimeter) for roughly a year and a half now. The original 1600.1 Soundstream Rubicon that I had didn't like it and ended up frying. I have now been running a Skar t2000.1d for roughly a month and a half with a stock 110A alternator, full 0 AWG KnuKonceptz, and an XS D3400 secondary. Haven't seen voltage drop below roughly 12v (IIRC) at full tilt and the amp hasn't shown any signs of getting hot with a couple hour long drives a few times a week with times of full tilt playing for a few songs.. Just wanted to inform everyone of the results of .5 so far on this amp. Like mentioned above, with box rise and what not, the amp is probably seeing closer to 1 ohm if not a bit above rather than being close to .5.

Just to add, as much as I would love to guinea pig this amp for another few month at .5 ohm, it isn't in the budget to blow an amp right now so I will likely be wiring it up to 2 ohm in the next week or so until I can sell some randoms in my garage to snag another 2000.1d. That is unless, Skar wants to hook me up with a new amp to guinea pig this one for them :P

Just to clarify, amplifier engineers are fully aware of impedance rise when they rate their amplifiers.

I should add here that I am only at half gain with distortion coming on around 3/4 gain with a DD-1 on the amplifier so I guess when I was saying I was at full tilt a few times, it wasn't at the amplifiers maximum, just my settings maximum. I seen a thread with information from team nemesis DJ about calculating box rise, so I may do that here in a week or two and try to get a ball park of box rise. If it ended up a touch above 1, I may just keep running it as is (correct me if I'm wrong here) since the amp would never actually see anything under 1 ohm with box rise thrown in and reactive ohm load being a bit above that?

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I just wanted to throw my two cents in here. I have two HDC3 10's 2 ohm DVC's that I have had wired down to .5 ohm (.6 on the multimeter) for roughly a year and a half now. The original 1600.1 Soundstream Rubicon that I had didn't like it and ended up frying. I have now been running a Skar t2000.1d for roughly a month and a half with a stock 110A alternator, full 0 AWG KnuKonceptz, and an XS D3400 secondary. Haven't seen voltage drop below roughly 12v (IIRC) at full tilt and the amp hasn't shown any signs of getting hot with a couple hour long drives a few times a week with times of full tilt playing for a few songs.. Just wanted to inform everyone of the results of .5 so far on this amp. Like mentioned above, with box rise and what not, the amp is probably seeing closer to 1 ohm if not a bit above rather than being close to .5.

Just to add, as much as I would love to guinea pig this amp for another few month at .5 ohm, it isn't in the budget to blow an amp right now so I will likely be wiring it up to 2 ohm in the next week or so until I can sell some randoms in my garage to snag another 2000.1d. That is unless, Skar wants to hook me up with a new amp to guinea pig this one for them :P

Just to clarify, amplifier engineers are fully aware of impedance rise when they rate their amplifiers.

I should add here that I am only at half gain with distortion coming on around 3/4 gain with a DD-1 on the amplifier so I guess when I was saying I was at full tilt a few times, it wasn't at the amplifiers maximum, just my settings maximum. I seen a thread with information from team nemesis DJ about calculating box rise, so I may do that here in a week or two and try to get a ball park of box rise. If it ended up a touch above 1, I may just keep running it as is (correct me if I'm wrong here) since the amp would never actually see anything under 1 ohm with box rise thrown in and reactive ohm load being a bit above that?

Well, box rise it just impedance rise. ALL driver impedances rise when their motor is in motion, whether the driver is in a box, in infinite baffle, in free air, in Detroit or even in Hong Kong. It's just impedance rise and all amplifier manufacturers know that impedance rises when they rate their amplifiers for a given load. Thus, whoever made your amp already knew it wouldn't see the load it's rated for so you aren't tricking them or the amp by calculating impedance rise in the box.

In the end, you either run it below rated impedance or not... regardless of what the rise is in your particular enclosure. If the amp can handle it, then good. If not, you'll be buying another or with any luck, your manufacturer has a good warranty policy.

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Let us know if you continue to run the Skar at .5ohm please...

2013 Toyota Camry SE

240a MechMan HO Alternator

1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3

CT Sounds 4000.1D

Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp

SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp

Infinity Kappa 6.5 components

Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out)

(4) 8" PRV 8MB450's

Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets

(2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure)

(2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them)

Pioneer AVH-X4600BT

100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner

120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener

(4) Juice Box Black Cherries

Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0

2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back

ToolMaker Everywhere

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  • 2 weeks later...

Naw I ended up getting a ct sounds 1400 from some guy on caco but it was bullshit and would go straight into protect with no speaker wires or rcas attached. So I opened a paypal claim n sent that garbage back. I believe ct sounds has good product but this one was a shady used deal . I then went and bought two bnib memphis car audio 16mc1.1100s and strapped them at 2 ohms. But I think they can do more because the sub read 2.9 ohms when I measured the impedance so well see what it does when the sub loosens up .. the guy says there was nothing wrong with the amp but tell me why I saw scratches in the white paint underneath the glass back? No reason to remove a glass back but to repair. He posts an unboxing video saying I blew the amp but then a few hours later posts another vid with the amp working..I know my wiring was solid..I hooked up my memphis amps and no problems at all. 1st strapped amps ive ever ran too

You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries

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Quote name="outbumpinghicks" post="2830115" timestamp="1405999477"]

I just wanted to throw my two cents in here. I have two HDC3 10's 2 ohm DVC's that I have had wired down to .5 ohm (.6 on the multimeter) for roughly a year and a half now. The original 1600.1 Soundstream Rubicon that I had didn't like it and ended up frying. I have now been running a Skar t2000.1d for roughly a month and a half with a stock 110A alternator, full 0 AWG KnuKonceptz, and an XS D3400 secondary. Haven't seen voltage drop below roughly 12v (IIRC) at full tilt and the amp hasn't shown any signs of getting hot with a couple hour long drives a few times a week with times of full tilt playing for a few songs.. Just wanted to inform everyone of the results of .5 so far on this amp. Like mentioned above, with box rise and what not, the amp is probably seeing closer to 1 ohm if not a bit above rather than being close to .5.

Just to add, as much as I would love to guinea pig this amp for another few month at .5 ohm, it isn't in the budget to blow an amp right now so I will likely be wiring it up to 2 ohm in the next week or so until I can sell some randoms in my garage to snag another 2000.1d. That is unless, Skar wants to hook me up with a new amp to guinea pig this one for them :P

Just to clarify, amplifier engineers are fully aware of impedance rise when they rate their amplifiers.

I should add here that I am only at half gain with distortion coming on around 3/4 gain with a DD-1 on the amplifier so I guess when I was saying I was at full tilt a few times, it wasn't at the amplifiers maximum, just my settings maximum. I seen a thread with information from team nemesis DJ about calculating box rise, so I may do that here in a week or two and try to get a ball park of box rise. If it ended up a touch above 1, I may just keep running it as is (correct me if I'm wrong here) since the amp would never actually see anything under 1 ohm with box rise thrown in and reactive ohm load being a bit above that?

This r ight here is the whole reason the original question. Without someone telling me theyve done it with no problems for a good amount of time I wouldnt do it. You probably end up blowing up the amp Ml

You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries

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I just wanted to throw my two cents in here. I have two HDC3 10's 2 ohm DVC's that I have had wired down to .5 ohm (.6 on the multimeter) for roughly a year and a half now. The original 1600.1 Soundstream Rubicon that I had didn't like it and ended up frying. I have now been running a Skar t2000.1d for roughly a month and a half with a stock 110A alternator, full 0 AWG KnuKonceptz, and an XS D3400 secondary. Haven't seen voltage drop below roughly 12v (IIRC) at full tilt and the amp hasn't shown any signs of getting hot with a couple hour long drives a few times a week with times of full tilt playing for a few songs.. Just wanted to inform everyone of the results of .5 so far on this amp. Like mentioned above, with box rise and what not, the amp is probably seeing closer to 1 ohm if not a bit above rather than being close to .5.

Just to add, as much as I would love to guinea pig this amp for another few month at .5 ohm, it isn't in the budget to blow an amp right now so I will likely be wiring it up to 2 ohm in the next week or so until I can sell some randoms in my garage to snag another 2000.1d. That is unless, Skar wants to hook me up with a new amp to guinea pig this one for them :P

Just to clarify, amplifier engineers are fully aware of impedance rise when they rate their amplifiers.

I should add here that I am only at half gain with distortion coming on around 3/4 gain with a DD-1 on the amplifier so I guess when I was saying I was at full tilt a few times, it wasn't at the amplifiers maximum, just my settings maximum. I seen a thread with information from team nemesis DJ about calculating box rise, so I may do that here in a week or two and try to get a ball park of box rise. If it ended up a touch above 1, I may just keep running it as is (correct me if I'm wrong here) since the amp would never actually see anything under 1 ohm with box rise thrown in and reactive ohm load being a bit above that?

Well, box rise it just impedance rise. ALL driver impedances rise when their motor is in motion, whether the driver is in a box, in infinite baffle, in free air, in Detroit or even in Hong Kong. It's just impedance rise and all amplifier manufacturers know that impedance rises when they rate their amplifiers for a given load. Thus, whoever made your amp already knew it wouldn't see the load it's rated for so you aren't tricking them or the amp by calculating impedance rise in the box.

In the end, you either run it below rated impedance or not... regardless of what the rise is in your particular enclosure. If the amp can handle it, then good. If not, you'll be buying another or with any luck, your manufacturer has a good warranty policy.

not to mention if the sub is new once it loosens up youll get a drop in impedance

You need trunk space to get groceries and shit...bitches love groceries

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