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Posted

I've got a hdc3 15 running off of a Sq 1200.1 with stock electrical

2002 gmc sierra, I believe it's a 105 amp alt

I was curious if I could just use a distribution block in order to run a Sq 120.4 after a big 3 upgrade

Posted

Yeah you can run a distro block to run the both but I'd strongly suggest looking into an HO alt.. At the very least run big 3 in true 1/0 w/ a large batt. You're gonna see some pretty decent voltage drops running both of those amps on a stock electrical. It'd be a shame to run $1g worth of sub/amps/speakers/HU and skimp on the electrical to back it up.

2006 Hyundai Sonata Lx

- Alpine CDA-9885

- Rainbow CSX Comps

- (2) 12" Sundown Zv4

- Sundown 5K

- 4.6ft3 @ 33hz w/ 6" aeros sealed off in trunk

- 250a Singer alt, Kinetik 1400, (2) 2400s

- 150.4 @ Dash as of now

Posted

The length would depend on how far everything is from one another but IIRC I did it with less than 20' of 0 gauge.

2001 Saturn L200
-Sony MEX-BT4100P
FRONT STAGE:
- (4) Crescendo PWX 6
- Cadence XA250.2
SUB STAGE:
-Fi Audio BL 15 (Sealed Off)
-Crescendo BC2k
ELECTRICAL:
- Singer 240A alt

- XS Power D3400
- SkyHigh OFC power/speaker wire
- Big 3 with SkyHigh 0gauge
Build Log: Click Here

Scores: 146.5db @ 29hz Outlaw

Posted

Got it. Another question, about how much wire should I buy in order to do the big 3 and what kind?

There are a lot of companies now that sell Big 3 kits, I believe Sky High sells one... Or just buy roughly 6-12ft of quality 1/0 and make your own. Look under hood to get an idea of the lengths you need. For wire, I've been running KunKonceptz Kolossus for years and have only ever been very happy and well taken care of. Have heard great things about Sky High wire and a number of other companies make high thread count HQ 1/0.

2006 Hyundai Sonata Lx

- Alpine CDA-9885

- Rainbow CSX Comps

- (2) 12" Sundown Zv4

- Sundown 5K

- 4.6ft3 @ 33hz w/ 6" aeros sealed off in trunk

- 250a Singer alt, Kinetik 1400, (2) 2400s

- 150.4 @ Dash as of now

Posted

What type of wire would I get? Ofc or cca

OFC!

Furthermore, my personal opinion is to get the raw cable 12-15 foot maybe, & the associated hardware, & build it yourself. The "Big 3" kits are great, & this is not a knock on any of them, but they are an attempt at an One Size Fits All, & it would suck ass if you spent all that $$$ for a pre-fabbed kit, & the ALT ---> BATT cable ended upbeing10 inches too short.

Just something to ponder, ... & I really do no think anyone can argue with my train of thought.

... & to comment on your question of "brand" of cable to use ... try this right here, ... & I am NOT kidding ... http://www.ebay.com/...=item2c7e3a507f

Sooo many people here use welding cable for darn near their whole builds, it is not even funny, including myself. You can check out my Build Log to see. Especially for underhood & Big 3 ... the incredibly durable insulation that that cable has helps greatly with heat, oil resistance, etc. I think you get the point.

I even made a Topic right here where everyone agreed that I should leave my welding cable in place ... Check it out ... http://www.stevemead...io-cable-do-it/

I hope this helps, & if you think I can answer anything else, do not hesitate to ask,

Zeke

'14

2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS

MONTEside00030001.jpg

Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/

Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build

Pioneer FH-P8000BT

Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1

Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC)

RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP

MechMan S Series 240A

XS Power D3400 & D975

311-vector-logo_zps0d152f73.png sutliffSig_zpsb1df26dd.png

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