Robert8252 Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Open the trunk and turn the radio up. If it is louder now in the car with trunk open your box might not be sealed off. But as everyone else said, if it's not a term lab don't trust it. People get stuck on wanting high numbers, even thought DB numbers don't matter at all if you're not competing. Are you not happy with it? Or you just want to see a higher number? 2013 F150 Crew Cab Old Build Log Feedback 2013 F150 Equipment - Some Awesome Stereo Sound Making Stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 That GZ stuff is seriously nice, got to check some out this weekend. Sounds to me like something is wrong with your signal to the amp. If you're having to turn the gain up that far, and you're saying the subs still aren't moving that much, then something's wrong there. Do you have a DMM to check the AC voltage at the speaker terminals on the amp? You could at least see what it's putting out, and that would eliminate the box from this equation. If you're not getting good voltage, then I would take a look at your HU, you might have something set wrong. I do know that the 80PRS always likes to set the subwoofer out to the lowest setting, like -15 or -20, after you run the auto EQ/TA. If you don't go back in and adjust that it will stay there. Things like that you should check. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 For the 2nd time in this thread, a DMM is the wrong tool to set gains. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 if those woofers are the same as soundqubed/audioque hdc3's, then you need 5 cubic feet net, tuned to mid 30's (like 35-37hz), and 80 square inches of port area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_step Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Open the trunk and turn the radio up. If it is louder now in the car with trunk open your box might not be sealed off. But as everyone else said, if it's not a term lab don't trust it. People get stuck on wanting high numbers, even thought DB numbers don't matter at all if you're not competing. Are you not happy with it? Or you just want to see a higher number? i think i play like 1db louder with trunk and door open, didnt try with only the trunk open that time so probably was thanks to the door. But to the ears i couldt tell. Had the meter on the middle of the windshield. From the beggining i didnt have plans on competing in spl classes but now i dont know, either way im not satisfied with the sound or output. I live for music! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_step Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 That GZ stuff is seriously nice, got to check some out this weekend. Sounds to me like something is wrong with your signal to the amp. If you're having to turn the gain up that far, and you're saying the subs still aren't moving that much, then something's wrong there. Do you have a DMM to check the AC voltage at the speaker terminals on the amp? You could at least see what it's putting out, and that would eliminate the box from this equation. If you're not getting good voltage, then I would take a look at your HU, you might have something set wrong. I do know that the 80PRS always likes to set the subwoofer out to the lowest setting, like -15 or -20, after you run the auto EQ/TA. If you don't go back in and adjust that it will stay there. Things like that you should check. Thats another problem, ive tried 2 types of dmm for true rms voltage and 3 diffrent clampmeters and i have it set right and tried with 50hz sinewave and read 11volts and 2,2amps. Both on ac volt/current and clamp on positive and dmm on plus minus. Think my meters cant measure the output from the amp because i know it puts out more than like 25VA at that moment. The settings is set manually with no auto blabla, dont like it, tried to set the subsonic as high i could with as low db/oct as possible and eq flat also but it didnt get higher on the meter. Just sounded like shit. I have had problems with this hu and it have been sent for repair twice, first time the changed the mainbord and second time the didnt do a shit, accept broke the reset button. I live for music! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_step Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 if those woofers are the same as soundqubed/audioque hdc3's, then you need 5 cubic feet net, tuned to mid 30's (like 35-37hz), and 80 square inches of port area. not the same but comparable, same baskets as the new sq hdc and have been told that they have same coils that are used in the dd95 or z series. ive had thoughts on building a port with the same area as now but tuned to 30hz because it didnt help to go from 36 to 39hz. And maybe mount it outside the box because it takes like 25liters of the boxvolume with this one and if i tune it that low the lenght would be at least the double here are som specs the xmax in the datashiet is pretty low but they have a "usable trow" of 3 inches so the can take some beeting. Power handling (RMS/Peak) 1500 W / 3000 W Nominal impedance 2 x 1 Ohm Mounting depth 206 mm Mounting diameter 288 mm Magnet weight 300 oz Voice Coil diameter 76 mm ( 3.0" ) Voice Coil Type/Material DVC / BASV Weight 23 kg Voice Coils connection series parallel Impedance 2 Ohm 0.5 Ohm Fs 35.1 Hz 35.4 Hz Vas 18.3 L 18.6 L Qts 0.348 0.424 Qes 0.382 0.460 Qms 3.821 5.304 Xmax (lin/peak) 11.5/23 mm Re 1.8 Ohm 0.45 Ohm Mms 510 g BL 22.91 TM 10.93 TM SPL (1W/1m) 84.7 dB 84.5 dB I live for music! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 For the 2nd time in this thread, a DMM is the wrong tool to set gains. Didn't ask him to set gain, just asked him to check AC voltage. Definitely a useful reading, and can expose problems. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 31, 2014 Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 That GZ stuff is seriously nice, got to check some out this weekend. Sounds to me like something is wrong with your signal to the amp. If you're having to turn the gain up that far, and you're saying the subs still aren't moving that much, then something's wrong there. Do you have a DMM to check the AC voltage at the speaker terminals on the amp? You could at least see what it's putting out, and that would eliminate the box from this equation. If you're not getting good voltage, then I would take a look at your HU, you might have something set wrong. I do know that the 80PRS always likes to set the subwoofer out to the lowest setting, like -15 or -20, after you run the auto EQ/TA. If you don't go back in and adjust that it will stay there. Things like that you should check. Thats another problem, ive tried 2 types of dmm for true rms voltage and 3 diffrent clampmeters and i have it set right and tried with 50hz sinewave and read 11volts and 2,2amps. Both on ac volt/current and clamp on positive and dmm on plus minus. Think my meters cant measure the output from the amp because i know it puts out more than like 25VA at that moment.The settings is set manually with no auto blabla, dont like it, tried to set the subsonic as high i could with as low db/oct as possible and eq flat also but it didnt get higher on the meter. Just sounded like shit. I have had problems with this hu and it have been sent for repair twice, first time the changed the mainbord and second time the didnt do a shit, accept broke the reset button. So wait, it's reading 11V or it's above 25V? Also, your subsonic filter you will want low. That's a HPF, so anything below the number you set it to will not play (without taking the slope into account). What is your SSF at right now? "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_step Posted July 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2014 That GZ stuff is seriously nice, got to check some out this weekend. Sounds to me like something is wrong with your signal to the amp. If you're having to turn the gain up that far, and you're saying the subs still aren't moving that much, then something's wrong there. Do you have a DMM to check the AC voltage at the speaker terminals on the amp? You could at least see what it's putting out, and that would eliminate the box from this equation. If you're not getting good voltage, then I would take a look at your HU, you might have something set wrong. I do know that the 80PRS always likes to set the subwoofer out to the lowest setting, like -15 or -20, after you run the auto EQ/TA. If you don't go back in and adjust that it will stay there. Things like that you should check. Thats another problem, ive tried 2 types of dmm for true rms voltage and 3 diffrent clampmeters and i have it set right and tried with 50hz sinewave and read 11volts and 2,2amps. Both on ac volt/current and clamp on positive and dmm on plus minus. Think my meters cant measure the output from the amp because i know it puts out more than like 25VA at that moment.The settings is set manually with no auto blabla, dont like it, tried to set the subsonic as high i could with as low db/oct as possible and eq flat also but it didnt get higher on the meter. Just sounded like shit. I have had problems with this hu and it have been sent for repair twice, first time the changed the mainbord and second time the didnt do a shit, accept broke the reset button. So wait, it's reading 11V or it's above 25V? Also, your subsonic filter you will want low. That's a HPF, so anything below the number you set it to will not play (without taking the slope into account). What is your SSF at right now? sorry i wrote wrong, i meant lpf on the hu. Tried to set it as high as i could in case it messed with the output on the lower frequencies. For SQ i run it at 50hz 18db/oct. But that didnt help or gain the output, just sounded bad Yes two diffrent dmm read the same 10,91volts and the only clamp that did get a value showed 2,2amps at that point on 50hz sinewave. tried 40hz and 30 but then it was even lower values on the meters. And this is not cheap meters ive tried. That togheter is like 24VA and the powerfactor is unknowned so in best case like 20watts according to the meters value. This was att same volume i play about 130db music and i think i need more than 20watts to play 130 on music. I live for music! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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