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Grounding your amp question.


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I had a hence it was you Justin! Thanks man. Seriously I know what needs to be done. It's all in process of order. I will be doing all the necessary upgrades to better my electrical really soon. But for now I'm running stock everything!

-Phillip, my amp NEVER gets hot. Why? I don't run it at .5 ohms LOL. And when I do listen to full tilt music it's strictly when I'm on the free way when I have my alt spinning at 65. When I do the little demos, I know it hurts my batteries more than anything . But I know the batteries have enough reserve for a short period because my amp has a clip indicator so I know it's not getting absolutely dirty power. I do not expect to gain a Db from OFC at all. Only will get a little bit of cleaner current. I know I'll gain my Dbs when or if I add bracing on my back wall and roof and dynamat the b**ch. Also my gains are near 1/3 turnt! Not even half way. Also my amps impedance at 1.6 ohms. And with my box rise like Justin said I'm probably getting exactly around 3000rms. Which is fine for me now.

I had a account on here 2 years ago and I lost the information for it . I read a lot on here and love the forum boards Justin! I just got back on this site a couple weeks Argo & this is definitely where I get help with confidence . Thanks for letting me know who you were lol!!

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Your clip indicator is likely not accurate, most aren't. Your gain knob position is in NO WAY an indicator of anything of any importance. Saying "my gain is at X position" doesn't mean anything. The gain pot and it's SOLE function is to match the voltage coming from the headunit. If you have 2V preouts or 4V preouts, the position of the gain pot is different. Being different, however, doesn't mean in any way that the one position puts out more power than the other. It only means that it was the position that was required to MATCH the input voltage from the headunit.

As far as your stock alt and a couple of batteries being enough for that amp, they aren't,not in any world. We've tried to tell you that but you don't seem to care to listen. I really want you to advance and get even louder, but it would be nice to see you do it the right way. I'm not saying my way, but just in a safe one. I'd be so scared to let a 7K amp try to eat from a single run of 1/0 CCA. I'll be running that same power through dual Singers and 4 runs of 1/0 CCA. I've seen vehicles burn to the Ground from wire that got overloaded and too hot.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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I do listen and take in your information. But doesn't mean I'm gonna jump in my truck and start changing things.. Why? Because I've ran the current setup I have for about 4-5 months now. WITH the same 300 fuse. (Never blown a fuse with the Stetsom) -No issues what so ever. And my setup before that no issues and had that setup for a year. I also believe Stetsom amps are made ENTIRELY differnt than the china/Korean boards. They don't require dual/trip inputs and they are half the size and weight of all these other amps. But yet do the same or greater rated power. I've also never seen a Stetsom amp fail. Please show me one that has If you can. And out of my 6 setups I've never had anything go wrong except blowing a fuse and having a Fi bl fail on me.

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I know PLENTY of guys that will never run a Brazilian amp because of the numerous failures. Just because you haven't blown a fuse supports my theory that you ARE NOT drawing amperage. If you're 7000W amp was trying to draw the amperage to provide 7000W(roughly a 700A draw) your fuse would blow. The reason you haven't blown a fuse is because you aren't getting the power to the amp, it's not drawing it. So your 7000W amp that's pulling 300A of current isn't impressive to me.

I'm glad you're happy with your setup,I really am. Not running the proper amount of wire or alternator power makes a 7K not worth running in my opinion.

The reason your single CCA run works(and hasn't melted yet) is because your alt can only provide 145A total. Your amp can't make more power than it's given. Like I said, your batteries help and add some supplemental voltage, but not for long.

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

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Thanks justin, trust me I take notes and take every knowledgable opinion into factor from every system I've seen and every fail I've seen. I'm still in heaven. -

When I built this set up it wasn't for numbers or anything. It was strictly only to upgrade from my fi's. It was budget build as well. My next setup will be built much much better you'll see :)

I'll have electrical upgrades when I add 2 more mayhems to the setup and drop the impedance on the amp. Having a 7k watt amp at 1.6 ohms plus box rise is not that big of a deal. In my opinion the amp is on vacation right now :)

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Not to beat a dead horse, but, that amp is not going to last long on your electrical. I know you think it's fine, but its not. If you don't get a bigger alt, you'll get to see your first blown stestom.

DD M4


Rockford Fosgate P500-4


SoundQubed HDC415 w carbon fiber cap


2 Rockford Fosagate T1675-S


XS Power D3400 Under Hood


XS Power D5100 in rear


Michael Singer 200A Alt


Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/153901-2012-veloster-update-842013-wall-build-4-15s/

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It's lasted almost 6 months being in the Arizona heat... I don't play my system over excessively either. If it blows up then I'll learn from the mistake. But until then it's fine with a voltage drop from 14.2- 13.1

I can respect that. I hope it continues to be a performer for ya. Sucks when equipment breaks!

DD M4


Rockford Fosgate P500-4


SoundQubed HDC415 w carbon fiber cap


2 Rockford Fosagate T1675-S


XS Power D3400 Under Hood


XS Power D5100 in rear


Michael Singer 200A Alt


Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/153901-2012-veloster-update-842013-wall-build-4-15s/

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