Validate/help with box design W10GTI aero port

[BboyTaktix]

Hey guys,

currently running a W10GTI off of a Clarion DPX11551 (awesome amp) hooked up for 3-ohm load, in a simple ported enclosure of around 1ft^3. It pounds pretty good, but I want to get a bit more out of it and I have heard the W10GTI does well in well-tuned ported enclosures.

Here is where I would need your help. Looking at doing an aero port design for efficiency and ease of build. Here are my build specs so far;

Volume: 1.4 ft^3

Tuning Frequency: 28Hz (unless anyone has a better option? Would like accurate sound, not for SPL or comps or anything, but some 'BOOM'. Best of both worlds I guess)

Number of ports: 1

Port Size: 2''

Calculated port size with those specs: 6.25'' (http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31) or 7.25 flared (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html)

Does this seem right?

Sub will be facing trunk with port on the side. Will be typical rectangular box with slight angle in the back to match rear seat.

thanks in advance!

[Joe X]

JBL recommends 1.75 cubes net with a 3" port (don't use a 2" port please or you will get port noise), here's how it would look:

[BboyTaktix]

wow Joe, thank you so much. I had that program on my old laptop but lost it when it crashed and haven't been on SMD forums since.

I will follow your recommendations, and also totally did not think about port noise! 3'' port it is then! 29Hz tuning looks good as well.

Question: will a slight angle in the back wall of the box cause any issues? I don't believe it is any problem but just want your input on that.

Also, I am assuming that the port needs to be ten inches NOT including the internal port flare?

[Joe X]

Actually this is JBL stock box, most likely I would do it differently, in any case if you really do that use ONLY a PSP flared port, even then you may still get port noise since it's tuned higher than their suggestion of 25Hz.

[BboyTaktix]

Actually this is JBL stock box, most likely I would do it differently, in any case if you really do that use ONLY a PSP flared port, even then you may still get port noise since it's tuned higher than their suggestion of 25Hz.

can you expand on this? Ideally I would like the box to be as small as possible since I use my trunk to transport skis, snowboard and suff in winter ( the size/dimensions of box you gave me would be good). How would you do things differently? I am fully aware that just because JBL recommends it doesn't mean that it is the best configuration/box for the sub.

[Joe X]

You can do the box above BUT using a flared PSP port and tuning a little lower if you need that small box, here's something a little larger in case you think you can afford to invest the extra space, performance should still be better despite being slot ported due to the significantly increased port area:

NOTE: power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 2", figure is just an assembly guide.

NOTE: If building outside you need to build a cardboard dummy box to test fit in it's way inside.

[BboyTaktix]

Okay, thanks for the information! I think that box in particular would be a little overkill for my needs and the space I want to use. Also, I ordered the PSP slot port yesterday so it should be here some time next week. I am thinking 1.75 cu. ft tuned around 28Hz to give me decent boom but still keeping it somewhat SQ. I did a little research and most people seem to be happy running this sub between 27-30Hz and with a 1.6 to 1.75 cu.ft box. Hopefully mine will be no exception!

Going to measure the car before making a final decision on size and tuning, but since in both cases you suggested 1.75 ft^3, I feel like this would be proper volume. Just need to decide tuning (if I want to go with 28 or 30Hz) the width I have available for the box in my trunk should help me decide that (make sure the sub and port don't interfere and I still have enough room with seats down to put my snowboard through )

Any more suggestions in terms of the aero port box building? I know the basics like sealing all the corners once the box is built, many suggest putting insulation on the walls or bracing. I plan on doing one bracing in the middle of the box which will also help to support the aero port.

[Joe X]

Pretty basic box to build, straight cuts is most important to have a solid box, use drywall/MDF screws predrilling and good quality wood glue, no bracing should be necessary but you can add some if you want.

[BboyTaktix]

Pretty basic box to build, straight cuts is most important to have a solid box, use drywall/MDF screws predrilling and good quality wood glue, no bracing should be necessary but you can add some if you want.

great, thanks. Actually built the sealed box last summer that the sub is in now with no issues, was pretty easy. I did double baffle front wall (two layers of 3/4-inch MDF) and box is pretty solid. Last time I sealed edges with some extra wood glue although this time I'm going to use deicated sealant to ensure a good box seal. Just want to build it right the first time and forget about it/enjoy it afterwards.

Thanks for your help, I will let you know how it turns out!

[BboyTaktix]

Pretty basic box to build, straight cuts is most important to have a solid box, use drywall/MDF screws predrilling and good quality wood glue, no bracing should be necessary but you can add some if you want.

double post