Acme Tops & Tunes Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 We have noticed that a lot of people are posting questions on "how to tell if my system is to much power for my alternator" or "should I upgrade my alternator". On that note, we have a tech doc in our system that we think will be very useful and save a lot of headaches and repetitive posts. Hope this helps a lot of you! http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/548.PDF Acme Tops & Tunes 6430 Franklin Blvd. Sacramento, CA 95823 www.acmetopsandtunes.com PH 916.429.2293 FX 916.429.2296 Facebook YouTube Twitter Yelp Google
Souldrop Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 "The resource you are looking for has been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable." but definitely looking forward to the read. 1997 Lexus ES300 HU - Pioneer MVH 7350 Processor - Helix DSP Front Stage - JBL P660C Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4 Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12 Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1
JohnnyOhh Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/548.PDF
Acme Tops & Tunes Posted October 9, 2014 Author Report Posted October 9, 2014 http://contentdocs.installernet.com/documents/vehicle/548.PDF Thanks Johnny. Acme Tops & Tunes 6430 Franklin Blvd. Sacramento, CA 95823 www.acmetopsandtunes.com PH 916.429.2293 FX 916.429.2296 Facebook YouTube Twitter Yelp Google
gckless Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 While this is a good basic way, it doesn't account for some things, efficiency being one. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
RooTxBeeR Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 While this is a good basic way, it doesn't account for some things, efficiency being one. You can factor efficiency into it. Efficiency is a %. To figure that, you get how efficient your amps are, factor int he percentage, add them. Then use that number in place of the RMS in the second equation. Or, if you are using the first equation. The number you get, let's say your system can hold up to 2000 watts, and you know your amp is 80% efficient. Then again, just factor out the percentage from what your system can handle and you have the real number. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
gckless Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 While this is a good basic way, it doesn't account for some things, efficiency being one. You can factor efficiency into it. Efficiency is a %. To figure that, you get how efficient your amps are, factor int he percentage, add them. Then use that number in place of the RMS in the second equation. Or, if you are using the first equation. The number you get, let's say your system can hold up to 2000 watts, and you know your amp is 80% efficient. Then again, just factor out the percentage from what your system can handle and you have the real number. I know how to do it, but it's not in the article. I'll do you one better: I have an ammeter wired inline with my amps. 0 guessing as to what they are really drawing. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography
RooTxBeeR Posted October 9, 2014 Report Posted October 9, 2014 While this is a good basic way, it doesn't account for some things, efficiency being one. You can factor efficiency into it. Efficiency is a %. To figure that, you get how efficient your amps are, factor int he percentage, add them. Then use that number in place of the RMS in the second equation. Or, if you are using the first equation. The number you get, let's say your system can hold up to 2000 watts, and you know your amp is 80% efficient. Then again, just factor out the percentage from what your system can handle and you have the real number. I know how to do it, but it's not in the article. I'll do you one better: I have an ammeter wired inline with my amps. 0 guessing as to what they are really drawing. A what? Like a voltmeter? Lol laughable at what that thing pulls. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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