AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 Rest of my wiring came too. Another run of 2ga. power to run front to back, 2ga. ground for the MB Quart, set of JL Audio's CHEAPEST RCA's they make probably, but should be fine for 2.5v. Also got another ANL fuse link, which requires two ring terminals just to connect the wires to it. No set screws holding the wire into a block, ring terminals bolt where the fuse bolts. I do not like this and will probably order one of the older JL Audio's like my current one. For my application, it will take four ring terminals to wire both the power and ground 2ga., yet they only supplied two! Great thinking on their part! Also got a set of RF RCA's that I used on my old RF amp, finally found them. Were brand new, used them for a week in one car and then lost them, now they're found just in time! Going to be running short on ring terminals now and seeing nowhere within 50 miles sells them, at least ones that aren't 3x over priced or generic, may have to order some more before this second run of 2ga. gets installed. This is fine because the second run is a preliminary thing to support the new sub amp that I can't wait for! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2014 So here is everything to finish my high/mids, minus some bullet tweeters for my pillars. Will use the RF or PG domes on the pillars for now and wait to make pods when I get the bullets. Then I just need the Punch Pro 8's for my mid bass and of course some custom fiberglass pods for them So NO excuse for me now, lol. Even if I have to pull a few all nighters and blow a few things off, this will all be installed and the sub will be in it's new box and playing, within a week. This is a rare occasion, having the gear but no time, usually the opposite. So check back for updates, should start coming together soon and I may even have some numbers if I am happy with the output of the sub.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 So did the head unit a few days ago, just forgot to post it lol. Ran all of my RCA's back too while I was at it, making sure they were all hidden well. Certainly looks a lot better than it did, although I think the manufacturer made the bottom of the head unit sucked in too much. May put a few washers behind it and bring it out even with the lines of the dash. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 After measuring the box depth and port tube, seems my box needs to be closer to the hatch than the amp will allow, so relocating the BRZ and installing the 360.4. Turns out the floor panels in the cargo area make for NICE amp racks, lol. Very thick, very strong ABS plastic and two layer so I can fill the inside space with some expanding foam for dampening Plus there is a great amount of space under the panels for excess wires, etc. Was going to make a MDF replacement but after looking it over, I think I will keep this for the time being. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 On to some wiring. Replacing all of the old, purple Stinger 1/0 CCA with some new orange, KnuKonceptz 1/0 OFC. Let me tell ya, this wire is HUGE! BARELY fits in my 1/0 terminals and ring terminals! As you can see, there is tons of space beneath the panel that is now my amp rack, lol. Allows me to hide all of my wires and dist. blocks and neatens it up a lot. This is the RCA/remote side... Ran everything back under the molding and directly under the seat, into the storage area. Didn't even have to drill, was already a hole on either side Can't see a single wire running back, will take pics of the entire vehicle once I am done and it's actually clean. As you can see, it's in major need of some vacuuming! Shown here, the ground is connected on the opposite side of the plastic divider, in the back storage compartment. I simply connected the 2/0 ground to the large, lead ground lug the 1/0 is connected to, drilled a few holes and brought them into the front compartment. My strippers take a few strands of copper off each time, so I have that to clean up. With 5145 strands of copper, don't think I will notice a few strands missing, lol. Cannot stress enough the thickness of this Kolossus cable, much thicker than the regular blue KnuKonceptz 1/0 OFC shown here. SkyHigh cable is around the same thickness and seeing as they're a good bunch of guys, will be giving them my business for the black 1/0 OFC I will be replacing the blue with. While we are talking about power/ground cable, I have to say how thick JL Audio is as well. My run of JL 2/0 OFC originally in the vehicle from front to rear, is nearly as thick or as thick as the normal Knu 1/0 OFC. I purchased a second run of 2/0 OFC for front to rear made by Stinger, is only slightly thicker than the Knu Kolossus 4/0 running my MB Quart. In fact, the ground cable that came with it (shown above). fits in the 4ga. terminals on the amp. So there's some real world proof for anyone tuned in, looking to get some OFC cable. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Here is the power side, minus the second run of 2/0 that will run parallel with the current one. Was almost 3am and I was not about to start running lengths of 2/0 through the firewall and under molding, lol. Ignore the purple Stinger wire, is just still connected to the battery, which is sitting back there. White wires are for volt meter.... Takes me two dist. blocks because of the second run of 2/0. From what I have heard, two 2/0 can handle more current than a single 1/0 and since it was much cheaper, it was the best route to go. Will hold 3k, especially when considering most of the battery power will be in back. Here's all of it!, For now.... I ran the speaker wires out to where the crossovers will be after I took the pic as well. A few more things to do in here.... The small section of 4/0, will be replaced with 1/0 orange OFC left over from under the hood. Also, a second run of 2/0 will of course get connected into the last remaining dist. block terminal. That JL terminal is a 1/0 to (2) 4ga. splitter, but the Stinger 2/0 will cram into it, lol. This pic shows the few changes I have left to make... The red wire running into the 3-way 1/0 splitter is the JL Audio 2/0 OFC. They make WELL over sized wire, it fits snugly into the 1/0 terminal. The next few steps I was really in a hurry and both hands were always tied up, so I did not take pics. I simply drilled holes where the wires will connect to the amps and battery above, ran the wires through the panel and connected them to the amps/battery. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Here's the finished product! Still need to put riser blocks under the MB Quart and of course the Hifonics will be getting replaced with a much nicer, 2.5k when I add the second sub. Wiring remains the same, I can add more batteries without re-configuring, lift the panel up anytime I need to get at the wires (panel has a latch). The entire compartment where the wires are is plastic or carpet, so if a wire so happens to come loose, it will not arc out on anything Only mistake I made as you can see, is drilled the holes for the component speaker wires too far back. The box will probably cover it all anyways, whether I drill new holes and move them or just leave them. Two open holes are for the 8" Punch Pro Mid bass's I do not yet have :/ Sure looks empty with no box... Ran the speaker wires for the sub out the wrong side of the panel, lol. Used to the box being against the seat I guess, will fix it tomorrow.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 If anyone has any tips or see's anything I've done wrong, feel free to chime in. That's why I am here, to learn and know I am making the right move before I do it. Still have TONS to do! Want to run the other 2/0 tomorrow and try and maybe get the aero port in my box so I can have bass again! Such a simple thing, yet I have procrastinated to the max on it! If I have time, it would also be nice to replace the CCA under the hood with the orange 1/0 OFC. Until I order from SkyHigh, the negative battery to engine 1/0 under the hood will be over sized Stinger CCA. Then it's on to installing X-overs, 5.25"s, tweets, and more dampening on the doors. Also doing my L.E.D's at some point and a flush mounted USB port for my music storage. Tweeter pods for the pillars, custom 8" kick panel enclosures and much more to come before New Years! Lastly, the alternator currently in the vehicle is an aftermarket (better brand) 130a stock replacement. Not exactly capable of supporting 3k, but better than some factories and what if I added another one? The mount would be simple to make and then it would just be finding a belt, right? That would be like one 260a alternator unless I am missing something, at a much lower price.... Just a thought but again, if anyone has any input, open to suggestions! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 The more I think of it, the more I realize a 4-way 1/0 splitter block would eliminate the need for that whole mess! Problem is, I cannot find a 4-way splitter block, where every input is 1/0. The 2/0 JL is the size of 1/0 and the run to the battery is over sized 1/0, so it would have to be at least two 1/0/two 4ga. Anyone know of anything like that? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pasta Prime Posted October 24, 2014 Report Share Posted October 24, 2014 Only thing I would suggest is to find a better ground. Run it down to the frame if possible. Other than that it all looks nice and clean. New build coming........ YouTube:http://www.youtube.c...6?feature=guide Old Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d-on-the-cheap/ Old Screen name: Redrebel66 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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