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Can you answer all my questions in one thread?


kindofanoob

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It's expensive man to run decent equipment. No one on here is really giving you anything crazy, just nice clean equipment. Here are some prices for you:

Sundown sa8: 180

Crescendo symphony s600.1 sub amp: 200

Soundqubed 6.5" component set: 100

Soundqubed q4-90 amp: 230

Soundqubed 6.5 coaxial speakers for rear: 60

Sky high dual amp power kit cca: 150

So with all that you're at roughly 920 and you're still missing a head unit, or like others have said you could use a line output converter to keep the stock one. You would still need a box too, if you can build it yourself I'm sure someone on here could help with the design. There probably is a design on here for that sundown sub I recommended already.

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you guys on here are insane! really? 1500+ for a good audio system? i know you 'get what you pay for' but this is a daily driver to and from work - to say I can't get a reasonable and good audio system for sub 1500 just seems like fanboys and audio 'enthusiasts' trying to push an agenda rather than provide reasonable suggestions.

Whoa, slow your roll there. You've been given real world entry level pricing for what you asked for. Hardly "fanboy" or answers with any agenda.

Try this--notice no brand names:

Front components $150 (and there aren't many I'd care to listen to at that price)

Sub $100

Four channel amp to run fronts and sub $150

Wiring $200 (4awg kit, speaker wires for front and sub, RCAs)

LOC for stock HU $50

You could save a bit by using high-level inputs into the amp, but you're just trading RCAs for speaker wire and limiting yourself for upgrades later.

Like Nathan said use HU power on stock rear speakers and you're still at $650 plus a box, plus A/V for the kids. You can easily find some decent quality gear for the prices I listed. Any cheaper and the quality will seriously come into question, but if that's where you're at then go find some and good luck.

Static drops are my bag.

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It's true, car audio can get very expensive very fast. Something most people don't even consider is the cost of dash kits and harnesses when they upgrade their stock HU. They get a cheap $80 single din or $200 double din and think it won't be much more to get it in, but some vehicles require expensive parts to get it in. I've seen harnesses cost over $150 and dash kits cost over $600 no joke. I mentioned brand names in my recommendation because I know for a fact those products are good. There are plenty of cheaper options out there, but you really need to do your research. There's a lot of cheap crap out there, but in the end that's all it is. And sometimes it won't even work at all.

'99 Chevy Blazer 4 door 4x4


HU: Pioneer, DEH-80PRS


Front Stage: Hybrid Audio Technologies, Legatia L3v2 and Dayton Audio Reference 7" mid-bass


Sub Stage: Hybrid Audio Technologies, Clarus C12SW-D2 in a 30hz quarterwave transmission line (plays down to 17hz!)


Amplifier: Addictive Audio 7.4+35.1


Processor: Zapco DSP-Z8

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well it wasn't even about brand names - I intend to use some decent quality products - i mentioned sundown as my sub choice - i wasn't trying to bash anybody that wasn't my intention - and I know car audio isn't "cheap" for quality items - idk - maybe im not getting the point across that its a daily driver and not a whip to show off - i just want good quality sound - it doesn't have to be this premo - and i've sourced my dash kit and harness - its going in a SUBARU not a ferrari

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Yeah, $1500 seems a bit excessive, but $1000 is a very reasonable amount. With as big a overhaul as you want to do it's not going to be much cheaper than ~800. If you're buying all new and outsourcing your box to someone else it can get pricey. You could save quite a bit of money buying used especially on subs/amps.

It really sounds like you need to look around on your own. It's going to be hard for people on here to suggest much cheaper equipment. You could always find some equipment you like and ask if anyone has experience with it.

1997 Lexus ES300

HU - Pioneer MVH 7350

Processor - Helix DSP

Front Stage - JBL P660C

Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4

Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12

Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1

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ok so - scratch the headrest monitors i shouldn't have even mentioned it in this thread - thats a whole other endeavor - but I've made some component decisions - based on some reviews - i can't afford focal or hertz or all that so - this is kind of a budget system? let me know what you think
pioneer h/u - (under 200)
alpine type r components (front - 160)
alpine type r coaxials (rear - 100?)
1 or 2 - sa 8v2s (150 for 1 300 for 2) - building enclosure myself to sundown spec
amplifier (undecided - need help with this)

let me know what you think - maybe its crap - doesn't seem likes its crap - but I'm a noob

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I run Alpine Type R comps in all of my doors. Good choice for the price.

Avalanche

Alpine Type S comps

Alpine Type S 10''

Alpine MPR-F300

Alpine MRX-M50

Mechamn 270

XS Power d3400s



 

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For DVDs I'd just get a DVD headrest system, no point in a new HU if you're trying to keep in budget.

Doors, I haven't got a clue, I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do.

Sub: I really like the way the NVX VCW124 I got sounds. It has a low resonant frequency and when it was in a small sealed box on a Kicker CX600.1, it sounded decent, though it really started to shine in a 2.25ish cube ported box @ 23Hz on a Polk PA D1000.1.

I'd definitely look at their 10" VCW.

Amp: For $250ish, the Polk amp is pretty great, especially since I'm not trying to go for ultimate SPL. Your choice, however, depends on how high of sound quality you'd like. I almost got the JL monoblock that is 1000rms @2 ohms before deciding on the slightly cheaper Polk.

Electrical... You'd be better off upgrading at least the wiring (big 3); I had no problem with dimming when I ran the CX600.1, but the bigger Polk causes slight dimming full-tilt. I've got a 140A alternator stock.

For interfacing, I'm not sure if your car has a stock amplifier, but I'd grab an audiocontrol line-driver, run the speaker-level to the line driver and run line-level out to the 4ch and monoblock.

I figure about $200 for the sub, $200 for the monoblock, $50 for MDF/hardware for box, $200 for 4-Ch, leaving $350-$750 for wiring, speakers, line driver, and dvd system.

2009 VW Rabbit 2-Door:

Pioneer AVH-X1600DVD

Kicker CX600.1 (Kicker "Certified" 638wrms@2ohm)

NVX VCW124 @2 Ohm, ~1.25 ft^3 Sealed box

Stock Doors; (4) 6.5's, (2) 4's, (4) 1" Tweets

Owner/Founder of RT Photography

Canon Traitor who moved to Fujifilm

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