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Crescendo in Car just for SPL?


dscid

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cool...

sooo, the .. average ones..

got ya...

Yep. Nothing crazy, but good on a budget and still perform well.

just like the nendos will.... :shrug:

no offence but the guy is talking about RF T1's comp sets...

Hell i think the one he mentioned is a shitty two way.........DisCON at that. RIght?

Hes into a full front stage for like under 200 bones...........

If he said, "I LIKE RF AND ONLY RUN T3 and UP" well shit......

know what i mean?

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Before I jump on board =)

Can we do an objective comparison, ye knowledgeable individuals? I don't want to downgrade for budget's sake. Let that be clear :)

As I've said I've used Type RF, and T1 Power comps. Would these Dayton's be greater than or equal to?

I'm a pretty spontaneous person and could very well decide to go with something like Hertz HSK 6.5s. So, could you help me distinguish these 3 apart?

I know that it comes down to the install, not just having good mechanically perfect speakers, so with proper deadening and the like, these Dayton's do look nice.

At 50/pc, then that's 100/set, + tweeters = around 200 w/o crossovers. If I shelled out twice that, as sometimes you can find a good deal, I could have the Hertz.

I'm trying to word it so that it's not encouraging an endless 'vs.' thread, as those aren't allowed, and that's not really my intent. You say the Dayton's are great in the right install, and they are a good price. I'm trying to determine how much of the Hertz price is selling the name, against something like Dayton. I have nowhere to actually listen to either of these :\

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and here we go...

EDIT- and the RF comp sets you have 'ran' are damn near low of the nut budget .... just saying

hell i dont think they even make em anymore...

Just saying... what you are use to...... .. i dunno man. Did you run them off your deck? Ill bet?

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Let me help you out.

First thing is, please for heaven sake, get brand name out of your head. It doesn't matter if its dayton, Hertz, or sony xplode. As you've stated, its 90% installation, tuning, and hours of listening sessions, then adjusting, then more tuning. So for us to give you a proper suggestion, we need to know more information from you, besides brand and model comparison.

Tell us, what sound are you looking for. What exactly is your budget. What sound are you NOT looking for. Things like that, so we can find the best driver that fits your needs. Are you looking for just an accurate sounding driver? One that is Loud and Clear. One that has more mid/low end versus cristal highs. What else does your system consist of? What crossover functionality do you have access to? What are your current crossover points.

I hope you see where I'm getting at with this. If someone simply responds to "this brand/model is better than that brand/model", they are giving you horrible advice and I wouldn't listen to them.

If you are wanting a speaker that is affordable, great response, and smooth sound. Here is an excellent option: Silver Flute W20RC38-08

W20RC38-08.png

165db with 237 DC Volts

6 15" SSA Evils

3 HV Taramps T60k @.33

18 XS Power D3400s

Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy

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Heh, sorry for my terminology. No, I didn't power them with the deck. They weren't budget priced...which means nothing. I just don't have much reference for high end audio. All my local shops have low end stuff to begin with, in a crappy sound room. One shop even said that it sounds bad because this room was made in 1980 and it's all deteriorated a falling apart.

I realize this has gotten a bit silly, lol. I just don't know what to base my decisions on, since I can't demo things =P

Thanks Sen, for giving this thread some direction!

Smooth accurate reproduction is my goal. What I didn't like about my Type RF were they sounded tinny, and pretty muddy midrange. Very undefined.

I will get a Digital Designs X-1 processor for setting the XOs, or a Mini DSP. Haven't decided yet. I want a 4-way system. I've always lacked midbass, and the gap in the sound is a big bummer. I want tight and punchy, with warmth for midbass. A smooth, detailed midrange, and I don't really mind metallic tweeters, but I haven't had a chance to listen to Silks.

Thanks for that graph! That looks good. Midbass I'd like filtered at 250-300, midrange taking over up to 2.7-3k, for tweeters.

I want something that will make the drums sound great in heavily percussive music, where every attack can be felt, with great clarity. I had forgotten about those Silver Flutes! Again, thanks for the graph, now I have some perspective =P

What would compliment the flute woofers well for midrange/tweeters? Also, can these 8" flutes you linked to be okay in the door in an IB?

I watched a demo on YT of the 6.5 flutes. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TsHYhL4crAw

Though clearly not going to get a good feel of them through low quality recording, but in the comments the poster said that they don't sound great up past 1k-3k, where a normal 2-way system would XO. What would be good to use to fill the 1-3k range, if that is the case?

Would something like this fit the bill? http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/seas-soft-dome-tweeters/seas-excel-t35c-002-35mm-mid-tweeter/

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cool...

sooo, the .. average ones..

got ya...

Yep. Nothing crazy, but good on a budget and still perform well.

just like the nendos will.... :shrug:

no offence but the guy is talking about RF T1's comp sets...

Hell i think the one he mentioned is a shitty two way.........DisCON at that. RIght?

Hes into a full front stage for like under 200 bones...........

If he said, "I LIKE RF AND ONLY RUN T3 and UP" well shit......

know what i mean?

The nendos don't provide the low end of the mid range/ mid bass quite like a mid range driver does. Based on what he described, regardless how the nendos handle power and sound.

I don't feel that they will accomplish what he is looking for, he's not trying to keep up with 10k+ w rms. He's got a single 12 in a sealed box.

Before I jump on board =)

Can we do an objective comparison, ye knowledgeable individuals? I don't want to downgrade for budget's sake. Let that be clear :)

As I've said I've used Type RF, and T1 Power comps. Would these Dayton's be greater than or equal to?

I'm a pretty spontaneous person and could very well decide to go with something like Hertz HSK 6.5s. So, could you help me distinguish these 3 apart?

I know that it comes down to the install, not just having good mechanically perfect speakers, so with proper deadening and the like, these Dayton's do look nice.

At 50/pc, then that's 100/set, + tweeters = around 200 w/o crossovers. If I shelled out twice that, as sometimes you can find a good deal, I could have the Hertz.

I'm trying to word it so that it's not encouraging an endless 'vs.' thread, as those aren't allowed, and that's not really my intent. You say the Dayton's are great in the right install, and they are a good price. I'm trying to determine how much of the Hertz price is selling the name, against something like Dayton. I have nowhere to actually listen to either of these :\

Hertz are great, you can't go wrong. It just depends on what you want, I don't feel a Pro audio speaker is what you want. That's what the PWX's are.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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cool...

sooo, the .. average ones..

got ya...

Yep. Nothing crazy, but good on a budget and still perform well.

just like the nendos will.... :shrug:

no offence but the guy is talking about RF T1's comp sets...

Hell i think the one he mentioned is a shitty two way.........DisCON at that. RIght?

Hes into a full front stage for like under 200 bones...........

If he said, "I LIKE RF AND ONLY RUN T3 and UP" well shit......

know what i mean?

The nendos don't provide the low end of the mid range/ mid bass quite like a mid range driver does. Based on what he described, regardless how the nendos handle power and sound.

I don't feel that they will accomplish what he is looking for, he's not trying to keep up with 10k+ w rms. He's got a single 12 in a sealed box.

Before I jump on board =)

Can we do an objective comparison, ye knowledgeable individuals? I don't want to downgrade for budget's sake. Let that be clear :)

As I've said I've used Type RF, and T1 Power comps. Would these Dayton's be greater than or equal to?

I'm a pretty spontaneous person and could very well decide to go with something like Hertz HSK 6.5s. So, could you help me distinguish these 3 apart?

I know that it comes down to the install, not just having good mechanically perfect speakers, so with proper deadening and the like, these Dayton's do look nice.

At 50/pc, then that's 100/set, + tweeters = around 200 w/o crossovers. If I shelled out twice that, as sometimes you can find a good deal, I could have the Hertz.

I'm trying to word it so that it's not encouraging an endless 'vs.' thread, as those aren't allowed, and that's not really my intent. You say the Dayton's are great in the right install, and they are a good price. I'm trying to determine how much of the Hertz price is selling the name, against something like Dayton. I have nowhere to actually listen to either of these :\

Hertz are great, you can't go wrong. It just depends on what you want, I don't feel a Pro audio speaker is what you want. That's what the PWX's are.

you think these do?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3259_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-T1682S.html

fuck the nendos will HAMMER these...... come on man....

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cool...

sooo, the .. average ones..

got ya...

Yep. Nothing crazy, but good on a budget and still perform well.

just like the nendos will.... :shrug:

no offence but the guy is talking about RF T1's comp sets...

Hell i think the one he mentioned is a shitty two way.........DisCON at that. RIght?

Hes into a full front stage for like under 200 bones...........

If he said, "I LIKE RF AND ONLY RUN T3 and UP" well shit......

know what i mean?

The nendos don't provide the low end of the mid range/ mid bass quite like a mid range driver does. Based on what he described, regardless how the nendos handle power and sound.

I don't feel that they will accomplish what he is looking for, he's not trying to keep up with 10k+ w rms. He's got a single 12 in a sealed box.

Before I jump on board =)

Can we do an objective comparison, ye knowledgeable individuals? I don't want to downgrade for budget's sake. Let that be clear :)

As I've said I've used Type RF, and T1 Power comps. Would these Dayton's be greater than or equal to?

I'm a pretty spontaneous person and could very well decide to go with something like Hertz HSK 6.5s. So, could you help me distinguish these 3 apart?

I know that it comes down to the install, not just having good mechanically perfect speakers, so with proper deadening and the like, these Dayton's do look nice.

At 50/pc, then that's 100/set, + tweeters = around 200 w/o crossovers. If I shelled out twice that, as sometimes you can find a good deal, I could have the Hertz.

I'm trying to word it so that it's not encouraging an endless 'vs.' thread, as those aren't allowed, and that's not really my intent. You say the Dayton's are great in the right install, and they are a good price. I'm trying to determine how much of the Hertz price is selling the name, against something like Dayton. I have nowhere to actually listen to either of these :\

Hertz are great, you can't go wrong. It just depends on what you want, I don't feel a Pro audio speaker is what you want. That's what the PWX's are.

you think these do?

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3259_Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-T1682S.html

fuck the nendos will HAMMER these...... come on man....

Regardless of what he has had(we've all come from somewhere). Dropping names like Hertz and etc. I personally feel, him buying PA is not what he is looking for. End of discussion.

2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin

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