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Figure out what it is first don't start throwing parts at it.

Take it to a mechanic with a real scan tool and they should be able to tell you what's wrong.

also...

if your throwing lights, codes... OR NOT, will help.

Mine would run and start like shit...

About 2 months later, i threw codes/a light.

It was the spider pack..........

Where your NOT throwing a light/code....

maybe its a simple (more simple) issue... (spark) or what have ya..

Word. One time when I had pulled my coil packs one of the springs fell out from one of them. Never got a code or anything but I could tell it was misfiring. Took me like 2 weeks to figure that shit out, but it was the single easiest fix I've ever run into.

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Figure out what it is first don't start throwing parts at it.

Take it to a mechanic with a real scan tool and they should be able to tell you what's wrong.

also...

if your throwing lights, codes... OR NOT, will help.

Mine would run and start like shit...

About 2 months later, i threw codes/a light.

It was the spider pack..........

Where your NOT throwing a light/code....

maybe its a simple (more simple) issue... (spark) or what have ya..

Word. One time when I had pulled my coil packs one of the springs fell out from one of them. Never got a code or anything but I could tell it was misfiring. Took me like 2 weeks to figure that shit out, but it was the single easiest fix I've ever run into.

ya.... was a trip.

Mine would just start like hell. Idle like shit, and smell like,.. ... i dunno rotten eggs.

Like i could NOT use my auto start. But NO light/code.

About 6 weeks later it tossed a light.

It showed a MISS, but it turned out to be the fuel spider......

but, that dont mean it isnt somthing smaller...... at all.

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Yeah, gonna have to take it somewhere. Sick of sinking money into it. Just becoming that black hole, problem after problem. Don't wanna but might be time for a new car.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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If it was a fuel delivery problem wouldn't I see that in my fuel trims? Wouldn't I be getting positive numbers? Because my short term is basically at 0 and my long term is at about -3.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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So based on fuel trim I don't think fuel delivery is the issue. Going to test the ignition control module, crank sensor, throttle position sensor, and coil pack before I do anything else. All these can be tested with a DMM.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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Thanks for the help, think I got it figured out. This might turn out to be long-winded, but anyone having a problem might wanna read it all.


So I started by checking my EGR. Took it off, wasn't clogged, the plunger moved freely. Then I checked my Throttle Position Sensor, and that came out clear. Next was my Ignition Control Module (ICM).




- Passed test 1, good 12V+.

- Test 2 came out clear, ground checked out.

- Test 3 resulted in the LED being solid, which cleared the coil, meaning that the ICM wasn't sending a switching signal to the ignition coil. This is kinda odd, because the truck would start if I cranked it for a while.

- Test 4 gave me a flashing LED, which meant that the Powertrain Control Module (PCM, i.e. the computer) was sending a good switching signal to the ICM.


Based on this, I had no doubts that my ICM was bad. Went to Advance Auto, and got a new one. When I was checking out, I asked the guy how he would troubleshoot these, just questioning the legitimacy of the test I just did. He looked at it, and said "I know that's bad just by looking at it." Apparently, on OEM General Motors ICMs they have a colored dot in the center that changes color if it's bad. If it's good it's yellow, and when they go bad they turn white. You can see that here, this is my old, bad ICM:


E1942499-51EC-4505-8213-A30C804C9143_zps


Next to the new one, which reportedly does not change color when it goes bad. It does have a somewhat opaque dot in the center though, so I'm wondering if that in fact also changes color if it goes bad:


E0C21152-83C1-4116-85D6-F0EF963A7A00_zps


If anyone is wondering where on the engine it sits, here's a picture. I have the 4.3L, but I think it's close to the same location on the 5.0L and 5.7L too.


26DB72ED-5D17-4A07-99D0-0E7373D9BA69_zps



So it seems to start up well now. Also seems a little stronger, though that could just be in my head, because I didn't drive it yet, just played around with it in the driveway. I'll be driving it tomorrow morning, so I'll find out then. But I do believe I fixed this issue.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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