CleanSierra Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 You need to read more, that's all the advice I'll give you. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I'd run what you're going to, on Big 3 upgrade and an one additional Group 31 battery. Upgraded under hood battery to the biggest that can fit, plus a G31 would be enough for music in a daily. You referring to box rise(no such thing it's called impedance rise) tells me you're over thinking this. YOU don't need to worry about impedance rise in a daily application. Not many guys on this board truly need to worry about it either, there's a small group that it applies to and they are hardcore competitors where every tenth matters. and thats exactly why they wire at .5 after that many uninformed idiots seen it as magic and started wiring daily setups at .5 ohms.. for daily you dont worry about impedance. if you really want to push those subs to the limit get another amp and strap them at 2 ohms or 1 per sub at 1 ohm. even at .5 you wont get ti tickle the subs. and really .5 ohm don't gain you much just more headache when amps start to protect every 2 minutes. people in comps only use it for a few seconds and maybe a minute. you will wang on it on a daily basis and can be hours per day. its a higher chance of overheating the amp my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Research I what you need to do. Most that talk about rise don't even fully understand it. In your particular setup at 38hz what will it rise to? What about 48hz, 32, 24? It changes per freq and can based on the song/quality of the song. Voltage drop can change it as your amp wont push as much power and the sub wont react the same. Your counting on something you don't truly understand. For electrical did you ever think of calling the manufacturer and see what they recommend for it at 1ohm? From there you would go just a bit bigger. What are you going to use to watch voltage? Where do you watch voltage at? t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeeb Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 I'd run what you're going to, on Big 3 upgrade and an one additional Group 31 battery. Upgraded under hood battery to the biggest that can fit, plus a G31 would be enough for music in a daily. You referring to box rise(no such thing it's called impedance rise) tells me you're over thinking this. YOU don't need to worry about impedance rise in a daily application. Not many guys on this board truly need to worry about it either, there's a small group that it applies to and they are hardcore competitors where every tenth matters. I'll have the big three done twice. I already have it done in cca. And I'll do it another time in cca. So big 6 I guess in 0 guage cca. So you're saying wiring the two d2 to .5 probably won't hurt on proper electrical? Which I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeeb Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Research I what you need to do. Most that talk about rise don't even fully understand it. In your particular setup at 38hz what will it rise to? What about 48hz, 32, 24? It changes per freq and can based on the song/quality of the song. Voltage drop can change it as your amp wont push as much power and the sub wont react the same. Your counting on something you don't truly understand. For electrical did you ever think of calling the manufacturer and see what they recommend for it at 1ohm? From there you would go just a bit bigger. What are you going to use to watch voltage? Where do you watch voltage at? Volts show on the dash and a digital smd volt meter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 i just checked and even wiring to .5 you wont get to rated power of the subs. you have subs that can take 2500 watts maybe a bit more and the most you might get wired at .5 ohm 2500 watts. adding that second amp will be beast my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeeb Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Subs rms 1200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeeb Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Yes conservative 1200 I know. But I'll be running at rms. which is something. They may move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted November 30, 2014 Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Stock volt gauge n the dash? Don't bother looking at it. Where are you hooking the vm-1 up to? t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeeb Posted November 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2014 Cigarette lighter. As it came with an adapter for. If it is horribly off in that location I don't think it would be sold that way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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