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Plexiglass questions: have an idea, not sure if this is the right material


philrab

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So, the idea I came into the other day was to pull the false floor and tool tray out of my Mazda 3 hatchback, build a big T-line with the top of the box making a kind of beauty board to match up with the edges of the hatch and act as the trunk floor (so I can still lay bags and stuff down on it). I was thinking double layer the box, more than anything to make sure that surface will take some weight, but then had the idea to try and make a big window so you can look into the box and see all the intricate port work involved in a T-line.

The question is, since I am going to be putting bags down on top of this thing, how much of a beating will plexiglass take before cracking? How hard is it to scratch? Am I asking for trouble using plexiglass in this application? Is something else more appropriate, or should I abandon the idea altogether and just double layer MDF and bedline the top for impact and scratch resistance?

I'm open to ideas. I've made boxes before, never a T-line. I'm gonna make one for a spare 8 I have lying around to make sure I can get them sounding right, but eventually I want to try and pull off this idea with a 10, but I want to make something a little nicer and more intricate than my past boxes (which are functional, but aren't really pretty).

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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Depending on the size and thickness of your plexi, baring weight wont be the issue.

Scratching on the other hand.....

Go with your idea, the port should provide plenty of bracing for the plexi so it doesnt bend from having things set on top.

Countersink the window about 1/4 inch and make a cover piece out of particle board, mdf, or whatever and wrap it in suede or vinyl to match your interior. Put a little inconspicuous pull tab to remove the "grocery plug"

Check out what Meade did on his isF for his amp rack with a plexi window. Pretty much the same idea.

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I think that if you can get thick enough plexi you wont have to worry about bending. Also if i'm picturing it correctly in my head the t-line port should help hold the plexi in place. as for scratching im not sure if it can take a good beating or not. Might want to check into getting clear vinyl and laying that over the plexi to protect it

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Depending on the size and thickness of your plexi, baring weight wont be the issue.

Scratching on the other hand.....

Go with your idea, the port should provide plenty of bracing for the plexi so it doesnt bend from having things set on top.

Countersink the window about 1/4 inch and make a cover piece out of particle board, mdf, or whatever and wrap it in suede or vinyl to match your interior. Put a little inconspicuous pull tab to remove the "grocery plug"

Check out what Meade did on his isF for his amp rack with a plexi window. Pretty much the same idea.

This is why I ask questions here. Sometimes, I miss the simplest solutions. I could double baffle, use 1" plexi with holes drilled through and countersunk for bolts into wood inserts into the port walls to keep things sealed, then just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and wrap it in carpet for the plug.

I think that if you can get thick enough plexi you wont have to worry about bending. Also if i'm picturing it correctly in my head the t-line port should help hold the plexi in place. as for scratching im not sure if it can take a good beating or not. Might want to check into getting clear vinyl and laying that over the plexi to protect it

Might do this and a cover panel.

Scratching was my primary concern. I know Lexan scratches like crazy, wasn't sure about Plexi. I suppose I could always try and get a piece of glass, but never worked with it and worry about cracking it. Think 1" plexiglass, clear vinyl for scratch resistance, and a cover plate will be how I handle this. It'll be a while before I have things in place to pull this off, but should be pretty nice looking once done. Thanks guys.

2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread

2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount.

Build Thread

 

1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 

 

1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. 

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Depending on the size and thickness of your plexi, baring weight wont be the issue.

Scratching on the other hand.....

Go with your idea, the port should provide plenty of bracing for the plexi so it doesnt bend from having things set on top.

Countersink the window about 1/4 inch and make a cover piece out of particle board, mdf, or whatever and wrap it in suede or vinyl to match your interior. Put a little inconspicuous pull tab to remove the "grocery plug"

Check out what Meade did on his isF for his amp rack with a plexi window. Pretty much the same idea.

This is why I ask questions here. Sometimes, I miss the simplest solutions. I could double baffle, use 1" plexi with holes drilled through and countersunk for bolts into wood inserts into the port walls to keep things sealed, then just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood and wrap it in carpet for the plug.

I think that if you can get thick enough plexi you wont have to worry about bending. Also if i'm picturing it correctly in my head the t-line port should help hold the plexi in place. as for scratching im not sure if it can take a good beating or not. Might want to check into getting clear vinyl and laying that over the plexi to protect it

Might do this and a cover panel.

Scratching was my primary concern. I know Lexan scratches like crazy, wasn't sure about Plexi. I suppose I could always try and get a piece of glass, but never worked with it and worry about cracking it. Think 1" plexiglass, clear vinyl for scratch resistance, and a cover plate will be how I handle this. It'll be a while before I have things in place to pull this off, but should be pretty nice looking once done. Thanks guys.

You probably wont like the look of the clear vinyl.

Youll probably only pull the grocery plug to show it off, in which case the vinyl will take away from the look.

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