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Is this enough power for my setup?


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always match the batterys..... you could get away without it..... i'm a keen believer in overkill for all my electrical. cant hurt having the extra batt in there

Yes it can

So if I did have to end up buying a second battery, would you recommend a smaller, larger or identical battery for the rear?

Neither because with solid electrical (alternator and wiring etc.) it isn't going to help your system.

So basically, your philosophy is one battery per alternator? Or is that just what you suggest for my particular setup. And after all this, I will go ahead and get the XS Power battery and 240amp Mechman alt and call it a day. And pray I don't have voltage issues. lol

No, not saying one battery per alt. I am talking about in your situation and you saying you are on a budget, your money is better spent on a good alternator.

I am not sure if 240A will be adequate for you to play at full tilt with all OEM electrical running as I am not sure what your EOM alt is rated at, dont forget about your OEM components needing current.

I said in an earlier post that my OEM alt is 60amps. And I would get a higher than 240amp alt but at idle (less than 8000rpms) the 320amp alt wouldnt make a difference. That came from mechman directly for my specific vehicle.

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then why do we have to charge our batteries weekly? if alt is what feeds the amplifiers then the battery wouldn't need to be charged you know since current flows right through the battery and to the amps.. that is not the case. batteries still get drained even if your voltage dont get lower than 13.8 and have beast alts. that proves energy is being sucked out of the batteries. i understand where are you coming from and where you got your info but the fact is even if you have overkill alternator batteries still get drained and need to get charged

How low does resting voltage of your batteries get that you need to charge them weekly, and to what voltage are you charging them up to? If the batteries are healthy, never see voltage below 13.8 as you stated, there is enough amperage to maintain that surface charge from the alternator and the vehicle is driven enough then you shouldn't have to top them off with a trickle charge due to them being at a lower than optimal resting voltage.

If you HAVE to charge your batteries at home then one of the above stated conditions doesn't exist.

why would i have to drive my car enough to keep it at 100%. as you stated all you need is the alt. shouldnt a 350a singer alt be enough to keep up with 150a draw? like i said i get what youre saying but if it is like you say why is my battery getting drained if i have enough alt to keep up with no batteries. thats what i need answered.. and no my battery is not dead. it rest at 12.8 after 2 days of sitting

You didn't answer my questions.

I've got one though; if your battery rests at 12.8 why does it need to be charged at home, and what are you using as reference to say that it is getting drained too low when you have a 350A alt and 150A draw? Is that just system draw or does that include your vehicle too?

If you truly have battery resting voltage dropping down to low 12's (which you haven't said yet) do you keep that 350A singer spinning fast enough to put out what is needed?

I have a DC 270XP but I know that just because my vehicle is running doesn't mean that I am getting 270A out of my alt.

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4167/13.4v because its more realistic. 315a

to maintain 14v only happens in the perfect world.. no one will ever see 14v unless you dont play or dont have anything on but the engine.. hot alt charges at 13.8 and even 13.4 at times and that's not counting amp playing .. just the bass will bring it down to 13.1 if he has solid electrical.

But couldn't that perfect world be created? Not saying that everyone is setup like this, but it's feasible right? What if we could externally regulate our alternators to reduce the voltage drop and reinforce that with caps? We could definitely stay much closer to 14 than 13.1 couldn't we?

but given this setup and how he dont want to spend more a bigger alt is the option.. getting caps, batteries, and a adjustable regulator it possible.. its going to cost him though and thats something he dont want to do so we have to figure alternator specifically to him

not saying everyone should do this but what i do is do my math at battery resting voltage..

8352w/12.8= 652a alternator power i need... if i have to look at getting 2 more batteries to keep up i rather just get another alt since batteries store power they dont make it

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OP thats because in most alternators when an alt is deigned to kick out 300+ amps at full rev, it puts out proportionally less at idle when compared to lets say a 240A version. Its going to have a steeper roll off below max RPM than it's lower rated counterpart.

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OP thats because in most alternators when an alt is deigned to kick out 300+ amps at full rev, it puts out proportionally less at idle when compared to lets say a 240A version. Its going to have a steeper roll off below max RPM than it's lower rated counterpart.

Portionally less meaning that the 320amp alt puts out more power than the 240amp alt at idle? Mechman told me the difference was negligible. I'm pretty sure if there was any reason to buy the Mechman 320 alt in my case they would have definitely to to sell me the more expensive alt.

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4167/13.4v because its more realistic. 315a

to maintain 14v only happens in the perfect world.. no one will ever see 14v unless you dont play or dont have anything on but the engine.. hot alt charges at 13.8 and even 13.4 at times and that's not counting amp playing .. just the bass will bring it down to 13.1 if he has solid electrical.

But couldn't that perfect world be created? Not saying that everyone is setup like this, but it's feasible right? What if we could externally regulate our alternators to reduce the voltage drop and reinforce that with caps? We could definitely stay much closer to 14 than 13.1 couldn't we?

but given this setup and how he dont want to spend more a bigger alt is the option.. getting caps, batteries, and a adjustable regulator it possible.. its going to cost him though and thats something he dont want to do so we have to figure alternator specifically to him

not saying everyone should do this but what i do is do my math at battery resting voltage..

8352w/12.8= 652a alternator power i need... if i have to look at getting 2 more batteries to keep up i rather just get another alt since batteries store power they dont make it

So youre saying your amp needs 8352W input to make its rated power?

On sine waves then yes, I will agree with what you said. On music that runs your amp at a duty cycle of about 50% then for that 8352W RMS you need about (652/2) 326A @12.8 going into your amp for it to run at full potential.

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OP thats because in most alternators when an alt is deigned to kick out 300+ amps at full rev, it puts out proportionally less at idle when compared to lets say a 240A version. Its going to have a steeper roll off below max RPM than it's lower rated counterpart.

i agree with this statement.. bigger alts need a smaller pulley which limits you on your engine rpm.. thats if you plan on racing or driving at above normal driving

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OP thats because in most alternators when an alt is deigned to kick out 300+ amps at full rev, it puts out proportionally less at idle when compared to lets say a 240A version. Its going to have a steeper roll off below max RPM than it's lower rated counterpart.

Portionally less meaning that the 320amp alt puts out more power than the 240amp alt at idle? Mechman told me the difference was negligible. I'm pretty sure if there was any reason to buy the Mechman 320 alt in my case they would have definitely to to sell me the more expensive alt.

And there is no doubt in my mind that the person that told you this is correct.

The idle output of those 2 alternators is probably not enough to make a difference that you will hear in your system.

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Not all bigger alts need a smaller pulley, my DC power alt's pulley is the same size as my stock alt.

As far as alt's go hairpin 6 phase is where it's at.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Not all bigger alts need a smaller pulley, my DC power alt's pulley is the same size as my stock alt.

As far as alt's go hairpin 6 phase is where it's at.

Fo sho! I love mine.

DC 270XP FTW!!

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