JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 This is my first build. Ever. My wife is that type of girl that can get whatever she wants whenever she wants. But with me it's picky. So I'm going all out from the start 'cause I know when I want to upgrade the answer will be no because I already have one. (I'm telling her these items are the cheapest) So my setup is all planned out. Here is the list: Rockford Fosgate T-2652 (Front) Rockford Fosgate T-1652 (Rear) 2 Rockford Fosgate P3 12" 4Ohm DVC Rockford Fosgate T1500-1BDCP Amp for the subs (Going to run the subs at 4Ohm series for 4Ohm Output) Rockford Fosgate P600.4 (Mids and Highs) So I got a good idea on how to set everything up. So in total RMS for all things put together is 3640RMS My real question here is, I don't know what to upgrade. Should I upgrade my alternator and battery to equal the 3640RMS or just upgrade to the point I equal the output to the amps which is only 2100RMS for both? Obviously I know that going a little over in the electrical area is a plus but what do I equate? My stock alt for a FORD EXPEDITION is at 130A which I calculated by half as a guess since most forums and websites say half is basically what the car stock equipment uses. After doing some research they say if I upgrade my battery which after calculating brings me to 115AH then I won't need a new alternator. My calculations are as follows: 2100RMS/.9E=2333W (Where W is Watts for the two amps and E is the efficiency for the T1500 and I'm exaggerating on purpose) 2333W/13V=180A (Where V is the volts between 14.4 and 12.7 and A is the amps) 130A*.5=65A (Where A is the amps on the stock alternator multiplied by half) 180A-65A=115AH So in the end all I did was just use the amps to get the amount of juice I need on the battery. Did I calculate wrong? Should I calculate all RMS? I only did the amps since the battery feeds that amps which feeds the speakers, so the way I have it figured is: Alt->Battery->Amps->Sound System If I'm wrong can you please provide the equipment I need to not have a problem with this, including the Fuse since I don't know what to use either.
alaskanzx5 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 Ok, so the truck will use a max of roughly 75-90amps A 1500.1bdcp has an average amperage draw if 75-100amps. The 600.4 should be around 20-40amps Total of 200-220 (numbers off the top of my head not giving a lot if effort but will be close) So a 200-250amp alt and an upgraded stock battery should be plenty. Those p3 can handle a 1500.1bdcp at 1ohm with a clean signal. They would only get 750watts each. A good match imo. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
rockFord_Expedition Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 Commenting here so I can find it tomorrow. Going to sleep but I'll chime in if you don't get your answer by then. You're thinking, that's a good start. Better than many. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Posted December 12, 2014 Ok, so the truck will use a max of roughly 75-90amps A 1500.1bdcp has an average amperage draw if 75-100amps. The 600.4 should be around 20-40amps Total of 200-220 (numbers off the top of my head not giving a lot if effort but will be close) So a 200-250amp alt and an upgraded stock battery should be plenty. Those p3 can handle a 1500.1bdcp at 1ohm with a clean signal. They would only get 750watts each. A good match imo. Well I was looking around and I don't want the amp life to shorten so that's why I want it to stay at 4 ohm unless it won't be an issue. Like I said, I got one them females that can get the same pairs of shoes twice on the same day, but the man can't get GTA 5 on the PS4 'cause he's got it on the PS3. But anyways, I was looking at the mechman HO alt that's 270A so what if I got that Alt with the D6500 from XSPOWER? Or will the 270A alt be enough? i got about 3k max to spend, but if I go that route, It'll be cutting close for the rest of the cables. I'm holding off on them because I don't know where the amps will fit yet and I don't want to buy the cables too long and find out they fit under my seats. I am getting the 1/0 Gauge 20ft though, I figured if I do cut distance short I can do the BIG 3
alaskanzx5 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 Look in Rockford website. They list the average amperage draw if their amps now. A 200-250 amp alt is plenty. Anything bigger is overkill. You don't have to get xs power batts. If money is getting tight look into the agm batts at Autozone. The amp will live a good long life at 1ohm. If you have got the subs yet get dual 2ohm subs and wire to 2 ohms. Slightly less power draw same rms rating and a happy medium. Don't skip out on the big 3. Do it, specially if you get an ho alt. Big 3 Wire 1 Alt positive to battery positive Wire 2 Battery ground Wire 3 Alt case/mounting bolt to batt neg or frame. Wire 4 (optional makes it the big 4) Alt case/mounting bolt to battery neg or frame which ever you didn't do for wire 3 For fusing, you fuse for the wire. If its rated for 200 amps then a 200 amp fuse if its rated for 300 then 300 amp. You can fuse lower but not higher then wire rating. Fuse near the amps at the amps manufacturer suggested fuse with a wire that is rated for the power draw the amp can reach. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Posted December 12, 2014 Look in Rockford website. They list the average amperage draw if their amps now. A 200-250 amp alt is plenty. Anything bigger is overkill. You don't have to get xs power batts. If money is getting tight look into the agm batts at Autozone. The amp will live a good long life at 1ohm. If you have got the subs yet get dual 2ohm subs and wire to 2 ohms. Slightly less power draw same rms rating and a happy medium. Don't skip out on the big 3. Do it, specially if you get an ho alt. Big 3 Wire 1 Alt positive to battery positive Wire 2 Battery ground Wire 3 Alt case/mounting bolt to batt neg or frame. Wire 4 (optional makes it the big 4) Alt case/mounting bolt to battery neg or frame which ever you didn't do for wire 3 For fusing, you fuse for the wire. If its rated for 200 amps then a 200 amp fuse if its rated for 300 then 300 amp. You can fuse lower but not higher then wire rating. Fuse near the amps at the amps manufacturer suggested fuse with a wire that is rated for the power draw the amp can reach. Ok so I went back to mechman found the http://www.mechman.com/alternators/ford/crown-victoria/03-05/240-amp-v-mount-ford-alternator/ so that's good. Which now is 100 cheaper than the 270. So now it's just a question of what speaker wire. I know I can cut if the amps aren't all the way to the back. I've been looking at the SKY high 12. Do you recommend the brand? I also want to get the reducers from there as well. Is the 1/0 any good on it? So I can save some cash and just get it from them I currently got XSFLEX in my shopping cart. negative and positive 20ft each. Also, If I buy the RCA's long, just in case will that affect the signal? Should I wait till I have the amps to see if they fit closer to the headunit? The fuse has got me confused. I know not to go higher 'cause then it won't blow since it won't sense nothing. But I read on crutchfield to add the amps RMS and go with that.
islandpride684 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 Anything Sky High is legit....measure from HU to where you're going to put your amps and add a cpl inches for play for your rcas, and fuse according to the what your wire is rated for.... Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410
JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Posted December 12, 2014 Anything Sky High is legit....measure from HU to where you're going to put your amps and add a cpl inches for play for your rcas, and fuse according to the what your wire is rated for.... So would you suggest I just buy ALL my wiring from SkyHigh? Including 1/0? 'Cause there's that whole you get what you pay for, but I understand that there's also a you're paying for the brand and not the quality. So I'm guessing I have to wait on the RCA's I don't know if the amps will fit under the second seat of the truck. And would you mind clarifying a bit on it 'cause like I said I'm new and don't understand the lingo yet The part I don't understand of the fuse is the wire rating. I thought it was from the battery.
islandpride684 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 I run sky high and yes I would recommend them...you can read up on this to understand fuses... http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm Build Log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186921-blk9te-07-yukon-slo-mo-build/page-3?hl=%2Bblk9te#entry2881410
JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Posted December 12, 2014 I run sky high and yes I would recommend them...you can read up on this to understand fuses... http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm Well I was on ebay and switched everything to SKY HIGH from 1/0 to the 12 gauge, Imma hold on the RCA's though since you highly recommend them, and surprisingly it actually brought me down ALOT I went from 3800 to 3200, and thats with the 270A alternator that I was going to get. Or should I stay with the 240? I want to get the 270, but alaskanz said that it would be overkill even though I really want it because I want headroom, plus I read online that HO alternators aren't bad since it will only distribute what it needs to. But back to topic, thanks for referencing I woulda spent over my budget, which I still am but I'll make up the 2 to 300 in OT. I might even stock up because once the clientele goes up so will the prices. So I read that link and so if I'm running 1/0 I should get the 325 ANL at the battery and on both amps? I plan to use 1/0 all the way through
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