alaskanzx5 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 If you want headroom for possible future upgrades get the bigger alt. The 600.4 only needs 4 gauge, about 4-8" near thus amp a 100amp fuse. The t1500.1bdcp can use 4gauge but imo 1/0gauge with reducers is better. Near amp put a 200amp fuse I would do 1 run of 1/0gauge ofc wire from the front battery to the rear of the vehicle. I would hook that 0 gauge to a fused distribution block that takes anl fuses. Then from that to the amps. 12gauge is plenty for the doors and sub wiring. I prefer 8gauge on my subs. Google search how to make an anl fused distribution block. Its cheaper that way. There is a for sale section on here and a lot of the time people will have wiring in there. You can save some money that way to. So Batter ->300amp fuse--->fused distro block Fused distro block one side with 100amp fuse, the other 200amp fuse Distro block 100amp fuse --> 600.4 Distro block 200amp fuse --> 1500.1 Hope that helps. Oh and I plan on doing 2 t1500.1bdcp at 2ohm to 2 15" subs and a t400x4ab possibly a t400x2ab. That's over 500amps if recommended fusing, just under 300amp of average power draw as listed by Rockford. I'll be running that with a 250amp alt (biggest they make for my car) upgraded stock battery to the biggest agm i can fit and an extra battery in back. Should keep my voltage up, hopefully above 13v. I'm sure a 220 amp alt and upgraded battery would do you fine. But if you want headroom a 270 isn't bad either. Check pricing with singer alternators (not stinger) and dc power. See if one of them can do cheaper then mechman. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Posted December 12, 2014 If you want headroom for possible future upgrades get the bigger alt. The 600.4 only needs 4 gauge, about 4-8" near thus amp a 100amp fuse. The t1500.1bdcp can use 4gauge but imo 1/0gauge with reducers is better. Near amp put a 200amp fuse I would do 1 run of 1/0gauge ofc wire from the front battery to the rear of the vehicle. I would hook that 0 gauge to a fused distribution block that takes anl fuses. Then from that to the amps. 12gauge is plenty for the doors and sub wiring. I prefer 8gauge on my subs. Google search how to make an anl fused distribution block. Its cheaper that way. There is a for sale section on here and a lot of the time people will have wiring in there. You can save some money that way to. So Batter ->300amp fuse--->fused distro block Fused distro block one side with 100amp fuse, the other 200amp fuse Distro block 100amp fuse --> 600.4 Distro block 200amp fuse --> 1500.1 Hope that helps. Oh and I plan on doing 2 t1500.1bdcp at 2ohm to 2 15" subs and a t400x4ab possibly a t400x2ab. That's over 500amps if recommended fusing, just under 300amp of average power draw as listed by Rockford. I'll be running that with a 250amp alt (biggest they make for my car) upgraded stock battery to the biggest agm i can fit and an extra battery in back. Should keep my voltage up, hopefully above 13v. I'm sure a 220 amp alt and upgraded battery would do you fine. But if you want headroom a 270 isn't bad either. Check pricing with singer alternators (not stinger) and dc power. See if one of them can do cheaper then mechman. Well I'm going to keep the 1/0 on the P600 only because I want as much power to the amps, I know it doesn't make it louder. It's just preference, but I really appreciate the input. So I put a 300 about 4 to 8 on the battery, and I googled the fused blocks on how to make them, but it only showed stuff to sell so I guess I'm just buying it. So it's 300 at Batt and 200 and 200 in the fuse block? How close should I put the fuse block to the amps? 8" as well?, And what 8 AWG brand are you using for the subs? I saw some NVX but it was out of stock New problem. While I was looking for a fused distributor, I cannot find one with a 1/0 in and 2 1/0 out. What can I do? I tried to google a how to, but like I said, there's a video for EXO but he just shows a basic fuse holder.
afrakes Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 The whole pointed a distribution block is to take a single run of 1/0 and split it into multiple runs of 4-8ga, which is why you aren't seeing any distros with 1/0 in and out. If your set on running 1/0 into both amps you just need a fuse block in the rear near the amps. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
JCruz1991 Posted December 12, 2014 Author Report Posted December 12, 2014 The whole pointed a distribution block is to take a single run of 1/0 and split it into multiple runs of 4-8ga, which is why you aren't seeing any distros with 1/0 in and out. If your set on running 1/0 into both amps you just need a fuse block in the rear near the amps. Well I'm going to use the RF distribution blocks. and just going to have to fuse them independently.
Aj11 Posted December 12, 2014 Report Posted December 12, 2014 you could save a butt load of money by thinking about different gear. (i would never spend $700 on 1500w.. no fing way!) and ive owned p3s i wouldn't put 750w to them. i don't mean to be that guy, but there's allot of good brands out there! could get the same power or more for half that price and get some better subs, or that Copy of gta5. for $700 you can get a great 1500w amp and your singer ho alt. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)
alaskanzx5 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 Yeah I wouldn't pay $700 for the amp either. I paid $550 for the one I have right now. To make a fused distro block you can buy some bolts with t nuts, fuses, washers and wood. There are a few ways to do it. 1/0 gauge into the 600.4 is fine, nothing wrong with overkill. Fuses for the amps should be about 8" away. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
Aj11 Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 not to mention i know plenty of subs for $3/400 bucks that would slam all over some p3s, the fi bl Comes to mind... CT meso... funky pup... i don't want to change your whole build. but for real theres so much out there. you should really do some research before you buy. i can't say what i really wanna say but i would look around man. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)
afrakes Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 I think he may be stuck if he already told his wife that's the cheapest stuff on the market. Sounds like she wouldn't be too happy if he changed his story now lol Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 how much do you love your wife. better yet can you live without her? if its the only thing she will let you build i say go big... get the t2500bdcp. not that your first option is bad but in reality a few weeks and you will want to upgrade whats your budget? you can maybe do better by going a different rout. like a crescendo bc3500 or ampere.. more watts same price. the p3 subs are like $160 save a bit more and get an Fi sp4. the mids you can also find cheaper. if youre dead set on fosgate then go for it. just dont forget you have other options and since it will be your only one make sure its a good one my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/
Miguels Posted December 13, 2014 Report Posted December 13, 2014 just post your budget and we can help you pick your gear. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/
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