daily driver subwoofer questions

[MalibuMaxxx]

Currently have an audio dynamic level 3000 rated for 1200 watt rms , a kicker L7 12" and a infinity reference series 610a. I've used the audio dynamics till i popped the tinsel leads and i rewired and resoldered. I currently have the kicker in my cargo. I'm craving a louder boom. Should i get more kicker l7 or get the fi q ? If i go the fi q route what would i need for electrical. Also what amp etc.

[Miguels]

no vs threads.. i cant say which one is better then the other as i havent tried 1 of them..

if you can sell both i suggest you do.. look to get ascendant audio Fi Car audio.. if youre on a budget you can buy the Fi X line.. its rated at 750 rms and be a better option. if you have a good budget you can look to get the higher line of subs they build

those 2 brands are not the only good ones. just saying what i would go with

[Souldrop]

80% of how it will sound will depend on install. Build a good box for one or both and experiment with what direction the box faces. There are no vs threads; because, there are just too many variables to flat out say one will outperform the other in most cases.

[MalibuMaxxx]

I'm not savvy of the different brands I've had only Memphis kicker and dynamic audio. I must wanted to know if i should scrap two or what . How much of a budget would i need ? And would i need a bigger alternator or just the big 3 for 1000 watt+ sub?

[Miguels]

1 good battery in the front and one in the rear with the big3 should be okay for 1000 watts.. i would get 1 Fi Q or the AA havoc

[MalibuMaxxx]

What batteries do you recommend and if i got the fi q should i get a single 18 or two 12/15

[reedal]

you shouldn't be suggesting a second battery without knowing what his stock alt puts out. I used to have my kicker cx1200.1 which is 1200@2ohms running at half ohm on a stock 130A explorer alt with no drop. And even if he is getting voltage drop on a thousand watts, a battery isn't the answer. I've made that mistake. OP, you need to figure out what subs and amp you want before you think about the electrical you need to get. if you're only wanting to run 1000 watts wired at 1ohm, then more than likely you'll be fine on stock electrical with big three (from my experiences). Figure out what power you're running, and then if required upgrade your electrical. A battery does not make power. And alternator does. I'd rather spend $400 on a better alt than $400 on batteries that are nothing but storage units.

[RainStryke]

DC Audio, SoundQubed, and Sundown Audio are also companies i'd check into. For sub size recommendations, we will need to know how much space you have to work with. I'd recommend 1 18" per about 6FT³, 1 15" per 4FT³ and 1 12" per 2.5FT³. It depends on the subwoofer you choose as well, some need more, some might not need as much.

If you decided to go with something like SoundQubed, here are some good parameters you should build the sub box around:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187809-hdc3-hdc4-optimum-enclosure-size/

Also, before things get out of hand and you get upset about your thread getting closed, you should check out the forum rules:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?app=forums&module=extras&section=boardrules

Your thread is currently breaking this one:

1. "No What Would Be Louder Topics (we don't know no one does unless they build it and test it)"

[khinds94]

you shouldn't be suggesting a second battery without knowing what his stock alt puts out. I used to have my kicker cx1200.1 which is 1200@2ohms running at half ohm on a stock 130A explorer alt with no drop. And even if he is getting voltage drop on a thousand watts, a battery isn't the answer. I've made that mistake. OP, you need to figure out what subs and amp you want before you think about the electrical you need to get. if you're only wanting to run 1000 watts wired at 1ohm, then more than likely you'll be fine on stock electrical with big three (from my experiences). Figure out what power you're running, and then if required upgrade your electrical. A battery does not make power. And alternator does. I'd rather spend $400 on a better alt than $400 on batteries that are nothing but storage units.

Stop telling people the wrong information. An extra battery helps a lot with a stock alternator. It's when you start adding multiple batteries with a stock alt is where you will have trouble.

[RainStryke]

you shouldn't be suggesting a second battery without knowing what his stock alt puts out. I used to have my kicker cx1200.1 which is 1200@2ohms running at half ohm on a stock 130A explorer alt with no drop. And even if he is getting voltage drop on a thousand watts, a battery isn't the answer. I've made that mistake. OP, you need to figure out what subs and amp you want before you think about the electrical you need to get. if you're only wanting to run 1000 watts wired at 1ohm, then more than likely you'll be fine on stock electrical with big three (from my experiences). Figure out what power you're running, and then if required upgrade your electrical. A battery does not make power. And alternator does. I'd rather spend $400 on a better alt than $400 on batteries that are nothing but storage units.

Stop telling people the wrong information. An extra battery helps a lot with a stock alternator. It's when you start adding multiple batteries with a stock alt is where you will have trouble.

It may help, but what's the point in getting it if you don't even need it in the first place? I'm pretty sure he was suggesting it would be a waste of money in some applications... We don't know yet, since the OP has yet to make a decision on his hardware.