daily driver subwoofer questions

[Miguels]

Stop telling people the wrong information. An extra battery helps a lot with a stock alternator. It's when you start adding multiple batteries with a stock alt is where you will have trouble.

Please show me research showing that a 12 volt car battery will generate 14.4V (as most amps are rated at) when the alternator has more load than it can handle. It doesn't. A 12v car battery won't continue to hold a 14.4v charge. Once the alternator is not charging the battery any longer, it slowly drops to resting voltage does it not? Adding batteries helps you from dipping past battery resting voltage, it doesn't create voltage. It doesn't stop you dropping below 14.4 when you're trying to draw 100A and your stock alt is 80A max. I did not say it wouldn't help, and I didn't provide false information. I said it won't create power. And it won't. I'm not saying he needs to buy a high output alternator for 1000 watts. I'm saying for Miguel's to suggest a battery for 1000 watts when he has no information about the OP's electrical, that could be spending money that isn't necessary.

again.. read first post. he asked what he needed to run a 1200 rms.. suggesting a big battery up front and adding the big3 is the electrical.. he still needs a good battery up front regardless of alternator he has, could be 80a could be 300a.. a shitty batter wont do shit but damage the alternator

by the way.. you just contradicted yourself here"I used to have my kicker cx1200.1 which is 1200@2ohms running at half ohm on a stock 130A explorer alt with no drop. And even if he is getting voltage drop on a thousand watts, a battery isn't the answer." you ran a 1200 rms amp at .5 ohms on a stock alt and didnt get voltage drop. go figure

if he sees voltage drop on a 1k amp then he has other issues.. my post was in a best case scenario with a working alternator.

edit: back in 2000 i was running a fosgate 1k amp on a stock 40a cs10 alternator and a regular refurbished batteries that you get for $20 in the rear.. my electrical did not suffer at all with that alternator.. i bet his alternator can do better then 40a, not unless he has an older then 1978 car

[reedal]

I wasn't saying he'll have 100A draw for a 1000watt system and only an 80A alternator. It was hypothetical in response to being attacked of providing false information by khinds. And you keep telling me to keep reading and that I've contradicted myself but you've changed your tune now.

1 good battery in the front and one in the rear with the big3 should be okay for 1000 watts.. i would get 1 Fi Q or the AA havoc

That's the post i responded to. Now you're saying only one battery with the big three instead of two after i called it out? And how do you know he has a shitty battery? Because it might not be an AGM? I did have a 1200W amp ran at .5 on a stock alt and a duralast group 65 from autozone without voltage drop. Where was the contradiction i made? I don't use that amp anymore because I bought a soundqubed 3500 and can run it at two ohms to get the power i want. The point I was originally trying to make is you shouldn't suggest buying items that aren't necessary. OP could have a brand new battery in there, whether it's lead-acid or AGM, how do you know if it's shitty? Why suggest he buys a new battery up front AND another in the back (^^^^) without knowing what his electrical capabilities at this time are? Does a battery help? Yes, I've never said it won't. But it shouldn't be needed for the 1000 watts OP asked about. Suggesting to buy items that may not be / aren't needed for that setup is wrong in my opinion. Big three = yes. Batteries = more than likely no.

[Miguels]

again. i dont see whats wrong with adding a battery? they sell small batteries that can help greatly for that small amp. a D925 which cost around 150 is about as much he will need in the trunk.. im not saying go buy 2 D3100.. i get what youre saying about adding more batteries does nothing when the demand is greater then what the the alt can supply. that i do know. what youre not getting is that a stock 130a is sufficient for a 1200 watt system with a tiny battery in the trunk.. the rear battery avoids the need of running another run of wire.. wire has resistance and having just the front battery his voltage might drop a bit. the rear battery will help.. lets say you have 3 batteries under the hood do you think you wont get voltage drop? you will get voltage drop due to resistance on the wire.. having the battery bank closer to the amp will help there. why do you think caps are best when being 12 inches or closer to the amp?

GET THAT..I KNOW THERE IS NO BENEFIT OF HAVING MORE BATTERIES WHEN THE DEMAND OF AMPERAGE IS GREATER..

whether you want to believe or not a battery or cap near the amp helps a lot

"It doesn't stop you dropping below 14.4 when you're trying to draw 100A and your stock alt is 80A max"

just saying

edit: before you continue... this got tested by Tony and Tony D not long ago. they tested with just a battery up front then with the cap near the amp...with a regular cap not a super cap. the amp yield more watts and higher voltage. explain that?

RESULTS:
No Capacitor:
1543 Watts RMS @ 13.80V into 4 ohms
2550 Watts RMS @ 13.32V into 2 ohms
3154 Watts RMS @ 12.76V into 1 ohm

With 1 Farad Capacitor:
1613 Watts RMS @ 13.98V into 4 ohms
2666 Watts RMS @ 13.60V into 2 ohms
3426 Watts RMS @ 13.35V into 1 ohm

With 100 Farad carbon supercapacitor:
1620 Watts RMS @ 13.95V into 4 ohms
2616 Watts RMS @ 13.65V into 2 ohms
3260 Watts RMS @ 12.91V into 1 ohm

[reedal]

Again, I never said it wouldn't help. Not once. I said it shouldn't be suggested without knowing if it will be needed. And i said it would be more beneficial to upgrade an alternator than to add a battery. Is that wrong? Does he need to buy a mechman or singer or DC power inc. 240+A alternator? Not unless he knows he's going to want more power in the future. But you can buy alts from other places. Summit racing, JC Whitney, etc. And they are higher output than stock, and will help more than a battery. I do understand what you're saying. You're trying to explain how a battery will help. As if I've said it won't. All I am saying is that without knowing more information about what OP has, it shouldn't be suggested to spending money on an item(s) that might not be needed. Are you implying I'm wrong that a battery will keep you at 14.4V when you're overdrawing your alternators output? Say it is an 80A alt. On average, a car stock electrical needs approximately 50A correct? So that leaves 30A to max out the alt. will adding that battery continue to generate the same 14.4V charge that the alternator charges the battery(s) with and that we all look to see on voltmeters going into our amps?

[MalibuMaxxx]

Dang guys i didn't mean to start an argument. Today i added the big 3 with 0g wire. Later this week or month I'm going to attempt to make a new box for the kicker then fix my dynamic and see which i like better. Btw the tinsel leads on the dynamic completely broke off from the copper looking ring under the dust cap. I soldered a 24g wire to the snapped copper wire than soldered a thin braided silver wire to that. I'm getting 2.4 ohm resistance on the inside of the cone but where the speaker wire goes to the tinsel lead i read 0? And only on one side. If I'm only getting 2 ish ohms does that mean a coil is blown ?

[MalibuMaxxx]

Example below. I'm not at home so Google a pic. My sub doesn't have the dust cap on it though. But i labeled what i was talking about in above post.