Triticum Agricolam Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 I built a box for a Z.v4-10" a while ago. I did 1.5 cubes tuned to 30 Hz with 30 sq in of port area. It was powered by a RF T2500 and did pretty well. I suspect you may be short on port area. Making the box larger will get you more output, but only over a limited frequency range so the box will be more peaky. Also please note that you don't always need lots of cone movement to make sound or move air. MAround your tuning frequency your cone is going to move very little even though you sub is still doing a lot of work. You also might be expecting a bit much from a single 10" and might need to upgrade to more cone area. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Y'all have been busy since I left. Looks like a lot of port area suggestions. So that one thing Ill look into. What about reverse mounting the woofer. Would that help? My box would be close-ish to 1.7-1.75 ish if I did that. Or what about moving the box where the sub and port are back or in another direction? Im not looking for a massive change (that would be cool though haha), but just some change. Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 You're not expecting monster air movement out of a single 10" are you? If so, you're in for a bad day. If you're judging how loud or impressive your sub is from the amount of excursion you see with your eyes, no one can help you. The amount a sub is moving back and forth is NOT the way to judge how badass your sub stage is.... Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Pictures of current box in it's current orientation in the vehicle would be helpful. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Here is the link to my build thread: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194179-bentandbrokens-r53-build-slow/ Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Its hard to tell from the picts, but it looks like you don't have the sub screwed down enough. The heads on those bolts should be against the rim of the basket, not sitting on top of the gasket like that. If you are getting any leaks that will kill your output. When installing subs with gaskets like that I find its usually best to lift/bend the gasket back from the surround and then put the bolts in so there is nothing between the head of the bolt and the basket. Then the gasket will fold back down on the of the bolt head once they are tightened down. You just have to be sure you use the right size bolts though. You don't want the head of the bolt to be digging into the surround. I use 1/4" socket head cap screws or #10 pan head machine screws, both of which have approximately a 3/8" head diameter which seems to be about perfect. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 No leaks around the gasket. Or anywhere on the box for that matter. I do actually plan on tucking the bolts under the gasket anyway, though. You can see in the pic of the sub out of the box that those are fairly large bolts and they are run into aggressive T-nuts and are very tight. So, what about inverting the sub? Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Inverting the sub will gain you a little box volume and lower your tuning a little bit, but its not going to make a huge difference. You may not even be able to hear any difference at all. Its free and easy to try though so I'd give it a go. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 6, 2015 Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 Your screws do NOT look tight at all. Yes, I saw how tall the collars on the screws are. No, that collar should NOT be above the gasket. The screws should be buried under that gasket and making contact with the metal on the subwoofer frame under the gasket. It won't be night and day just by inverting the sub. There looks to be nothing wrong with the box assembly or design. I think you might just be dealing with the fact that you've got a single 10" sub. It's not going to move mountains, or tons of air for that matter. You're already au a good net volume for that sub and you don't need to make it bigger by inverting. You'll start getting a really peaky response if you start getting the box too big and it will start acting like a sub in free air if you go too big. The good thing about that sub is, the suspension well keep everything under control, even with the extra power you're running and it shouldn't destroy itself, whereas some subs would if you threw them in a big box. Like I said, if you're judging how loud or impressive your sub is by the amount of excursion you're seeing, you're doing it wrong. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentandbroken Posted January 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2015 I replied to the screws on my build thread. Summary, Its not worth arguing if its leaking or not tight, because i'm changing it anyways. I will say your comments do make me want to change it more quickly however. So, Ill probably do that tonight. To the other comments: I'm not Judging by vision, not even saying its not loud as is, and i know its a 10 (trust me ive kicked myself more than once for not getting a 12"), but I am looking just to push a little more out of it either by repositioning it or inverting it. Just tweaks more or less. The screws is a good one. Thank you, any more tips? Life's a trip. . . Don't fall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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