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Bypassing CanBus help!


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Posted

So I fried my Pac harness somehow, it just went out one day! Double checked wires and couldn't figure it out! Anyway, I'm not going to use my factory system at all when I finish my build so instead of shelling out another $125 for a harness (2005 Chrysler 300C with the Boston system) can I just bypass it all together? I know I would need a ground but does the red and yellow wires tie into the same lead or how does that work? I've heard the cigarette lighter is used but unsure!

Posted

I ran an entirely new harness from the rear. Positive and negative from the battery, remote from the hu and a turn on from the fuse box.

There is one fuse in the rear box that can be moved to be always on or switched. That is the only place that has a switched 12v signal in the car. It runs the cigarette lighter in the ashtray up front so I suppose you could tie it in there if you wanted to.

The fuse in question is number 18 in the rear box. If it is in line with the others it is wired to be constant. Offset it is switched

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

Posted

I ran an entirely new harness from the rear. Positive and negative from the battery, remote from the hu and a turn on from the fuse box.

There is one fuse in the rear box that can be moved to be always on or switched. That is the only place that has a switched 12v signal in the car. It runs the cigarette lighter in the ashtray up front so I suppose you could tie it in there if you wanted to.

The fuse in question is number 18 in the rear box. If it is in line with the others it is wired to be constant. Offset it is switched

Ok so black ground to battery, red wire to battery and yellow to 12v switched correct? And I didn't know about the switch in the rear box, have to check it out!

Posted

You are correct. Just in case the people over at lx forums made a write up on how to tap into it http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/45194-Ignition-controlled-power-tap-write-up?p=571407#post571407

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

Posted
Posted

I use it to turn my amps on

26455455-298d-45bc-846d-d1c9b37514a7_zps

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

Posted

I use it to turn my amps on

26455455-298d-45bc-846d-d1c9b37514a7_zps

You have a factory deck or do you have to do this to turn the amps on?

Posted

I use it to turn my amps on

26455455-298d-45bc-846d-d1c9b37514a7_zps

You have a factory deck or do you have to do this to turn the amps on?

I was using the factory deck but I have a JVC KWR900BT with the PAC RP4-CH11 now. After I installed the deck I just left it like that. I find using the OEM ACC wire/fuse eliminates the turn on thud some amps have.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

Posted

You don't have to unless you retain the stock hu

Yup it was just a matter of choice for me wires were already there so I left it.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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