6 speakers on 4 channel amp

[conbon]

what tweeters you have ? the crossover point.... they should have came with an inline crossover so forget what i said just put the rears on highpass and the highest freq it will go you should be fine

kicker kst25

[CstrokerV]

yeah you should be fine....

just make sure your gains are set properly

[jk13]

LOL you are fine run the coaixles in pairs on two front channel at 2 ohms and the tweeters on the rears make sure you cross over the tweets high enough and that the tweeters can handle the 60 rms

don/t know why with 25 years of experience jk13 couldnt tell you to do that

So you're recommendation is to run the FRONT tweeters on REAR channels, and FRONT COAXES PLUS REAR COAXES on the FRONT channels? Good luck tuning that shitstorm.

Best two options right now since you have this stuff is either:

1) This will get you the power ratings you originally asked for (which is what caused this whole mess), but I don't recommend you do this. Sell front coaxes and buy 2 ohm woofers for the doors. NOT recommended with your knowledge base because you will likely end up with peaks and valleys in your frequency response if you don't know what to look for and have a good EQ for tuning.

2) Safest and easiest to get to sound good. Sell the whole front situation you have now and buy a set of components. Trust that the engineer that designed and tested them has more knowledge than you do and they have a decent frequency response from the factory.

Whatever, do what you want, hope it works out for you.

[jk13]

the door speakers (coaxials) will be run at 2 ohms on the front channel so they will be getting 120 watts rms.

Yes, 120 total. 60 per speaker.

[CstrokerV]

yep... tuning wont be bad no different then running rears anyways,, other then fading to the front so the rears aren't over bearing ... pretty sure he isn't to concerned for that or he can go buy kick panels so the all can be in front don't really know what he was going to do so whatever

yeah sell them take a chance to loose 90% of what you paid for them when it can be made to work with what he has

[conbon]

LOL you are fine run the coaixles in pairs on two front channel at 2 ohms and the tweeters on the rears make sure you cross over the tweets high enough and that the tweeters can handle the 60 rms

don/t know why with 25 years of experience jk13 couldnt tell you to do that

So you're recommendation is to run the FRONT tweeters on REAR channels, and FRONT COAXES PLUS REAR COAXES on the FRONT channels? Good luck tuning that shitstorm.

Best two options right now since you have this stuff is either:

1) This will get you the power ratings you originally asked for (which is what caused this whole mess), but I don't recommend you do this. Sell front coaxes and buy 2 ohm woofers for the doors. NOT recommended with your knowledge base because you will likely end up with peaks and valleys in your frequency response if you don't know what to look for and have a good EQ for tuning.

2) Safest and easiest to get to sound good. Sell the whole front situation you have now and buy a set of components. Trust that the engineer that designed and tested them has more knowledge than you do and they have a decent frequency response from the factory.

Whatever, do what you want, hope it works out for you.

yep... tuning wont be bad no different then running rears anyways,, other then fading to the front so the rears aren't over bearing ... pretty sure he isn't to concerned for that or he can go buy kick panels so the all can be in front don't really know what he was going to do so whatever

yeah sell them take a chance to loose 90% of what you paid for them when it can be made to work with what he has

ill just take it to my buddies dad who owns a car audio shop and he can tune all the shit for me. I do all of my car work there so i have professional help when i need it. But thanks man, i feel like this is the best thing to do. appreciate it.

[CstrokerV]

LOL you are fine run the coaixles in pairs on two front channel at 2 ohms and the tweeters on the rears make sure you cross over the tweets high enough and that the tweeters can handle the 60 rms

don/t know why with 25 years of experience jk13 couldnt tell you to do that

So you're recommendation is to run the FRONT tweeters on REAR channels, and FRONT COAXES PLUS REAR COAXES on the FRONT channels? Good luck tuning that shitstorm.

Best two options right now since you have this stuff is either:

1) This will get you the power ratings you originally asked for (which is what caused this whole mess), but I don't recommend you do this. Sell front coaxes and buy 2 ohm woofers for the doors. NOT recommended with your knowledge base because you will likely end up with peaks and valleys in your frequency response if you don't know what to look for and have a good EQ for tuning.

2) Safest and easiest to get to sound good. Sell the whole front situation you have now and buy a set of components. Trust that the engineer that designed and tested them has more knowledge than you do and they have a decent frequency response from the factory.

Whatever, do what you want, hope it works out for you.

yep... tuning wont be bad no different then running rears anyways,, other then fading to the front so the rears aren't over bearing ... pretty sure he isn't to concerned for that or he can go buy kick panels so the all can be in front don't really know what he was going to do so whatever

yeah sell them take a chance to loose 90% of what you paid for them when it can be made to work with what he has

ill just take it to my buddies dad who owns a car audio shop and he can tune all the shit for me. I do all of my car work there so i have professional help when i need it. But thanks man, i feel like this is the best thing to do. appreciate it.

if you can get kicks done for cheap then throw the other coaxs in there or both in the front doors if he'll give you a good price then later when you save more money you can do more

[jk13]

don/t know why with 25 years of experience jk13 couldnt tell you to do that

Because I would never recommend doing it that way.

And I cared enough to read his post and try to educate on a better way. My mistake, I guess.

if you can get kicks done for cheap then throw the other coaxs in there or both in the front doors if he'll give you a good price then later when you save more money you can do more

Or use that money to set it up the right way. I'm sure his buddy's dad could help him out with that too. Curious what his thoughts will be.

Is any of this brand new gear? Returnable or exchangeable?

[CstrokerV]

don/t know why with 25 years of experience jk13 couldnt tell you to do that

Because I would never recommend doing it that way.

And I cared enough to read his post and try to educate on a better way. My mistake, I guess.

if you can get kicks done for cheap then throw the other coaxs in there or both in the front doors if he'll give you a good price then later when you save more money you can do more

Or use that money to set it up the right way. I'm sure his buddy's dad could help him out with that too. Curious what his thoughts will be.

Is any of this brand new gear? Returnable or exchangeable?

I apologize I was taken it as he has this equpment this is what he has to work with ..... It can be made to work fine at little or no more additional cost with what he has... well i guess time is money but you know

[jk13]

So, kindergarten recap using the gear listed:

--Either way you wire it no single speaker will see more than 60 watts.

--The only difference will be that you can adjust the tweeter level independently in one setup, or the rear level in another.

conbon, as far as coax vs. component at their most basic difference:

A coax is a woofer and tweeter that are stuck together.

A component set is a woofer and tweeter that are not stuck together.

That's it. They both work as one speaker and serve the same function.

No hard feelings guys. Maybe I should have led with this post...