EddieC Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Hey guys, I've been having a hard time trying to find a design that will work in my car (Scion xB RS1) behind the rear seats for a single 12" DSS Ethos. I've never designed a box myself and am hoping for some input from you guys to pull this off. Is there any way to achieve a 32 Hz tuning within these max dimensions.....18"Hx14"Dx36"L? The sub calls for 1.5 cubes net with the driver having a .19ft^3 displacement. The hard part for me is getting the required 40 square in port area. I had someone give me these dimensions but the tuning is 35 Hz instead of the DSS suggested 32 Hz. Double baffle included in dimensions....16.5"Hx12.75"Dx32"L with 37 square inches of port area. Does this sound reasonable and if so how do I do the port? Sorry for the lack of knowledge here but that's why I'm asking the experts. Btw.... the sub will be powered by a Soundqubed Q1-2200. Thanks in advance. Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 So here is a suggestion, minimal compromises had to be made, it can be fired everything up or back, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3", figure is just an assembly guide: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 So here is a suggestion, minimal compromises had to be made, it can be fired everything up or back, power: to sub rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 3", figure is just an assembly guide: You are the man Joe! Thank you soooooo much! Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted February 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2015 Joe, does this box need more support than just the double baffle such as dowels or 45s? Also, would flush mounting the driver work, or would that defeat the purpose of the extra layer? Lastly, if flush mount is fine how much extra would you make the cut beyond it's outer diameter of 12.526"? I'm having a local cabinet shop make the cuts for me since I don't have the tools I need for that job. He said I'm probably looking at between $25-50 depending on the time it takes. He also advised me to get the mdf from him, as it was a better grade than I would find at Lowe's or Home Depot. Plus the price is actually a few dollars cheaper. This has me thinking about all those good looking birch boxes I've seen. He said he could do it out of that for about an extra $50 if I remember correctly. What do you think? Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Quoting your post, here in your thread: Joe, I have a quick question about an enclosure design you did for me. It's at this link.http://www.stevemead...n/#entry2939440Question is...do I need to add any bracing for this or will the double baffle be enough support? I asked this in another post but you didn't reply so I don't know if you saw it or not. On that thread I had someone tell me that they would do a 1" dowel on each side of the sub from the front to the back, going through the port. I did have some 45s cut for each of the corners to help with support, but I don't want to add too much and screw up the tuning. Also, on the double baffle both sub cutouts are the same, so there will not be a flush mount. I'm kinda thinking. ..and hoping, that will be enough. What do you think?And thanks again for the design man. I'm using one of yours right now on 2 SSA DCON 12s and that thing pounds HARD for such low powered subs. Thanks for that one too! You obviously know your shizz! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I would do the box as shown with the double baffle no further support for the sub is needed but isn't a bad thing to do either, bracing the port from the bottom would be a good idea as well as 45s on the port turns, whatever you do don't add heavy bracing that could alter net volume a lot, better let me know what are you wanting to do and I will update the above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 I would do the box as shown with the double baffle no further support for the sub is needed but isn't a bad thing to do either, bracing the port from the bottom would be a good idea as well as 45s on the port turns, whatever you do don't add heavy bracing that could alter net volume a lot, better let me know what are you wanting to do and I will update the above. I'm on my phone so hopefully I can get this to work. Here is the enclosure unassembled. You can see that the sub cutouts are the same. I figure that will be stronger than flush mounting. You can also see the 45s I had done. https://instagram.com/p/z0jRpkK3NA/ This is how the 45s will look in the corners. Was planning on doing the 2 in the port and the 2 in front of the inner port wall. Trying to lose as little space as possible. https://instagram.com/p/0WGvhWq3CU/ If I do need to use dowels, do they need to go through the port, or will stopping at the inner port wall be sufficient? I don't have the necessary tools for that and will have to get the shop to make those cuts if needed. I'm just concerned that they won't get everything aligned perfectly. Would be easier getting 2 pieces aligned rather than 3. Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted March 17, 2015 Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Nothing against Joe in any way with this post ... but if you know about the Ethos, why dont you call and talk to Q directly ??? Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EddieC Posted March 17, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2015 Nothing against Joe in any way with this post ... but if you know about the Ethos, why dont you call and talk to Q directly ??? I did message him with dimensions and asked if it was good to go. Posted the design pic above on the manufacturer's forum where he is now. No response. I did see him post to someone else that he was too busy right now to work on any designs. I know he's been busy getting these built to send out. Current install: Pioneer DEH-X8600BH HU AQ200.2 front stage amp Q1-2200.1 sub amp 2 12" SSA DCON subs in 4cu ported tuned to 32 Hz Image Dynamics CTX65 drivers Image Dynamics XS28 tweeters Kicker DS40 dash speakers KnuConcepts 4 gauge wiring for AQ200.2 1/0 OFC big 3 and rear battery/sub amp runs 220 amp HO alt from Js Ultimate Alts Second Skin Damplifier Pro deadening Optima Yellow Top Group 34 / 78 under hood Die Hard Platinum Group 31 marine in rear Stinger voltmeter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted March 18, 2015 Report Share Posted March 18, 2015 I'm on my phone so hopefully I can get this to work. Here is the enclosure unassembled. You can see that the sub cutouts are the same. I figure that will be stronger than flush mounting. You can also see the 45s I had done. https://instagram.com/p/z0jRpkK3NA/ This is how the 45s will look in the corners. Was planning on doing the 2 in the port and the 2 in front of the inner port wall. Trying to lose as little space as possible. https://instagram.com/p/0WGvhWq3CU/ If I do need to use dowels, do they need to go through the port, or will stopping at the inner port wall be sufficient? I don't have the necessary tools for that and will have to get the shop to make those cuts if needed. I'm just concerned that they won't get everything aligned perfectly. Would be easier getting 2 pieces aligned rather than 3. A flush mount is not really what I was suggesting but the sub being mounted in the top layer, in fact, the sub being in the top layer was accounted for to keep proper motor -port wall clearance. On the bracing here's what I'd do: If you would like to do anything differently let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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