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alternator? battery?


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Posted

Yellow tops are fine...

why would batteries matter when your trying to hold OVER what they can provide????

people are weird....

exactly..

ANYHOW.. The vfl is what, a 3800 watt amp? My Flatline FL2 and Ampere 3800 setups (1 ohm nominal in both situations) held high 13s (~13.7v) revved, and LOW 13s (13.1v) at idle.

I have a 230A Singer alt.

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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Posted

get the biggest alt you possible can. youll thank me later. once you have purchased largest alt you can and installed, do your big 3.

next charge all your batteries with a quality smart charger like xs power or ctek.

after that report.

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Posted

If the alternator is internally regulated, couldn't he run a wire from the alternator to the amp or a battery in the back and bypass any PCM or factory charging system?

regulation is a separate circuit from the output post on the alt. and is a separate circuit from the pcm system when using an external regulator. there are ways to trick in but i like incorporating so your battery light actually tells you something useful. those lights and circuits are there for a reason.

IMO if alternator companies don't know how to incorporate their regulation systems into cars they really have no idea how the circuit is working. its not that hard to make a circuit to shut off the battery light yet still have it light up if there is an issue with the charging system.

stick simple and incorporate your internal regulator with stock pcm. voltage isnt everything. amperage is what you want while maintaining voltage.

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BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

Posted

Thanks. I haven't had an issue with my alt and I believe I have a PCM.

every car has a pcm, its just whether or not it controls alternator to increase fuel efficiency

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My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1

BMW M340 xDrive

Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4...
Best Scores out of a trunk
153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz
154+ windows down, 155+ kick

Posted

If the alternator is internally regulated, couldn't he run a wire from the alternator to the amp or a battery in the back and bypass any PCM or factory charging system?

regulation is a separate circuit from the output post on the alt. and is a separate circuit from the pcm system when using an external regulator. there are ways to trick in but i like incorporating so your battery light actually tells you something useful. those lights and circuits are there for a reason.

IMO if alternator companies don't know how to incorporate their regulation systems into cars they really have no idea how the circuit is working. its not that hard to make a circuit to shut off the battery light yet still have it light up if there is an issue with the charging system.

stick simple and incorporate your internal regulator with stock pcm. voltage isnt everything. amperage is what you want while maintaining voltage.

That is exactly right Anthony

The way we have gone around the pcm is to turn the alt on with a internal regulator or external if you add one.

The internal is included in the total costs you were given before though and sets voltage at 14.8V

If you tied into the stock regulator in any way it would not yield a performance gain (there is just a battery light you get going around it but it will not impede daily operations)

For wiring it, you just go to a key hot (a 12V ignition source that is isolated with a relay or to any 12V source that works with ignition)

This is what I was told by mike. I just dont understand wiring it to a 12v ignition source and that bypassing the pcm. So if I go from alt positive to fuse box thats 12v ignition it will bypass the ecm? Its gotta be a 12v ignition source that the oem alternator isnt using that way it bypasses the pcm?

Im not worried about the battery light I can shut that off with my tune tool.

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