rockFord_Expedition Posted February 28, 2015 Report Share Posted February 28, 2015 I have to disagree. The alternator is bolted directly to the block so I'm sure there is zero resistance between the alternator and the block mounting locations. If there is its not enough to make a difference. Negative == Strut == Block , Is how its running. I think there is a 4 awg from factory ground to battery from an old set up. I guran freekin tee you that you are wrong about there being zero resistance between those 2 points. If you have a DMM that's worth a damn, if you measure the resistance between those 2 points you will see for yourself. Another thing, power loss increases exponentially as current increases, but your ride your call, dont listen to me. I hope you get this solved. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I have to disagree. The alternator is bolted directly to the block so I'm sure there is zero resistance between the alternator and the block mounting locations. If there is its not enough to make a difference. Negative == Strut == Block , Is how its running. I think there is a 4 awg from factory ground to battery from an old set up. The biggest reason to run a ground from the alternator case to the battery(or in your case the frame and then from frame to battery) is to limit the potential for stray grounds. I like to use the visual when you use your 110 volt battery charger we tend to hook both a positive and a negative clamp to the battery or frame. Why is this.......electricity will take the path of least resistance, and if that happens to be a ground it will not then create the current/ voltage needed to the component that needs it. In our case the battery. Does that help at all? I agree with Rockford that you could easily have a an alternator that is getting ready to fail, and it is only visible while in your vehicle under a load. Audio loads are different than what just about any place that checks alternators can reproduce. 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted March 2, 2015 Report Share Posted March 2, 2015 I have to disagree. The alternator is bolted directly to the block so I'm sure there is zero resistance between the alternator and the block mounting locations. If there is its not enough to make a difference. Negative == Strut == Block , Is how its running. I think there is a 4 awg from factory ground to battery from an old set up. The biggest reason to run a ground from the alternator case to the battery(or in your case the frame and then from frame to battery) is to limit the potential for stray grounds. I like to use the visual when you use your 110 volt battery charger we tend to hook both a positive and a negative clamp to the battery or frame. Why is this.......electricity will take the path of least resistance, and if that happens to be a ground it will not then create the current/ voltage needed to the component that needs it. In our case the battery. Does that help at all? I agree with Rockford that you could easily have a an alternator that is getting ready to fail, and it is only visible while in your vehicle under a load. Audio loads are different than what just about any place that checks alternators can reproduce. OP, if you aren't going to listen to me then maybe you will listen to Mechman. An open mind is often a good thing. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evnldr Posted March 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2015 I have to disagree. The alternator is bolted directly to the block so I'm sure there is zero resistance between the alternator and the block mounting locations. If there is its not enough to make a difference. Negative == Strut == Block , Is how its running. I think there is a 4 awg from factory ground to battery from an old set up. The biggest reason to run a ground from the alternator case to the battery(or in your case the frame and then from frame to battery) is to limit the potential for stray grounds. I like to use the visual when you use your 110 volt battery charger we tend to hook both a positive and a negative clamp to the battery or frame. Why is this.......electricity will take the path of least resistance, and if that happens to be a ground it will not then create the current/ voltage needed to the component that needs it. In our case the battery. Does that help at all? I agree with Rockford that you could easily have a an alternator that is getting ready to fail, and it is only visible while in your vehicle under a load. Audio loads are different than what just about any place that checks alternators can reproduce. OP, if you aren't going to listen to me then maybe you will listen to Mechman. An open mind is often a good thing. I'm listing can never have to many grounds. Just thinking it may not be the main cause. It may help a little but I don't think its a simple fix. If it is by all means I will post my result. I really hope it fixes it, I already ordered more tech flex to run the new wire As you suggested. I clamped the alt wire and at idle if I remember it was 65 maybe but under a moderate load it spiked to 95-98 at idle (Alt is rated at 110A stock) I am going to hook up my xs750 and see how it goes. The XS and the Deka AGM should fix it. Old set up.. 2003 PTGT 350WHP .. Sold Orion 600.2 ED 16ov.2 MTX 4205 Focal Pollyglass Clarion VZ309 New 2005 Subaru Legacy Wagon. Audio: Pioneer X5500 Source Pioneer D1720 Front stage running of a Elemental Designs NINe.2 Hifonics BRX 1600.1D running a Obsidian 12 v3 1.1 cf sealed Performance: Custom tune Home Security specialist. CCTV installer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evnldr Posted March 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Borrowed the old 15 and at current settings it sounded on par with I would expect, placed the 12 back and it sounded about half. And I heard a noise at and the speaker was not really moving maybe half load. My friend said he heard it the first day and chalked it up to being new. Sounded like a crinkling solo cup I will try to get a video. I'm thinking maybe a bad coil I will have to take a ohm reading. Both the 15 and 12 are in a sealed box to spec. http://youtu.be/08dLTqESSIo Meters between 1.1 and 1.5 Ohms. Old set up.. 2003 PTGT 350WHP .. Sold Orion 600.2 ED 16ov.2 MTX 4205 Focal Pollyglass Clarion VZ309 New 2005 Subaru Legacy Wagon. Audio: Pioneer X5500 Source Pioneer D1720 Front stage running of a Elemental Designs NINe.2 Hifonics BRX 1600.1D running a Obsidian 12 v3 1.1 cf sealed Performance: Custom tune Home Security specialist. CCTV installer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhunt94 Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 press on the cone of the obsidian and see if you hear that "plastic cup crinkling noise" again 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evnldr Posted March 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2015 press on the cone of the obsidian and see if you hear that "plastic cup crinkling noise" again Nope here is another video I ready to scrap it for a HDS312. http://youtu.be/3T-eiPXLyow Old set up.. 2003 PTGT 350WHP .. Sold Orion 600.2 ED 16ov.2 MTX 4205 Focal Pollyglass Clarion VZ309 New 2005 Subaru Legacy Wagon. Audio: Pioneer X5500 Source Pioneer D1720 Front stage running of a Elemental Designs NINe.2 Hifonics BRX 1600.1D running a Obsidian 12 v3 1.1 cf sealed Performance: Custom tune Home Security specialist. CCTV installer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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