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Tips/pointers for my first design


SLYentist

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Are you set on using MDF?

I used Arauco plywood....box is 44.5" x 32" x 19", 1.5" all sides, front baffle is 3", port walls are 1.5", and I can lift it by myself.

Cost was about $15 more per sheet but I guarantee I'm saving a lot more than that in gas money vs if I had used MDF.

Just a thought.

Or just do window bracing throughout that thing and it should hold up nicely.

Singer Alternators

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#anothershittysingerbuild

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Are you set on using MDF?

I used Arauco plywood....box is 44.5" x 32" x 19", 1.5" all sides, front baffle is 3", port walls are 1.5", and I can lift it by myself.

Cost was about $15 more per sheet but I guarantee I'm saving a lot more than that in gas money vs if I had used MDF.

Just a thought.

Or just do window bracing throughout that thing and it should hold up nicely.

nice, and nah i'm not really set on using MDF.

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

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Just make sure you don't get any of the higher quality ply from a big box store (laminated tops with low quality insides....might as well just get some cheap ply)......shop around some of your local lumber yards. I was planning on using birch but the place that I ended up getting mine from also had the Arauco which was 7-ply vs the 13-ply birch but the Arauco was so nice, I couldn't justify spending more for the birch.

Good luck man! Post some pics when you get it built.

Singer Alternators

Team Asshole

#anothershittysingerbuild

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I agree with magillaru, if you can get some Arauco plywood I would use that. Its my preferred material for box building and compared to MDF its lighter, stiffer, and much more pleasant to work with. The difference in cost between it and MDF is insignificant in the long run.

First off, you did a nice job putting the design into SketchUp. It was pretty much perfect in that regard. I took a stab at how to brace your cabinet. Some box designs lend themselves to being more elegantly braced than others. Yours was tough. Typically I'm all about the window braces, but I couldn't get anything I liked with window braces alone. There always ended up being one too close to the port for my liking. What I ended up with one big window brace to tie together the top, bottom, side, and port wall. Then I used 1.5" dowels to tie the baffle to the back panel. Its not the most elegant solution, but it should stiffen the cabinet up well and will add a minimal amount of weight. I also added a second panel to the port stub pieces to help stiffen things up there.

Here is the modified file: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1642665/Subwoofer%20Enclosure%20Sketchup.skp

Here are some pics.

4pYHphW.jpg

lJd8KNx.jpg

Anyway, its just an idea and probably can be improved upon, but it will at least get you started.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

The enclosure is built and playing, but the original plan had to be slightly modified on the day of the build because of my initial measurements were a little too big. The box sounds good, no whistling, chuffing, or air leakage. I've learned a lot about what I will and will NOT do when I get around to rebuilding the box in the future. For one, I definitely need to designs in more airspace, the port is tuned to ~28Hz, but i'm not hitting that low as well as i'd like. There are only about 11.5 cubes in the main chamber, obviously on the low side. The lack of super lows can also be partially attributed to having only about 1000wRMS to each sub for the time being until i get my money up for a beefy amp. The amps are two Crescendo S1500.1s, one on each SP4 at 2ohms. The two singer alts are laughing at that draw, staying above 14V at full tilt, so the power foundation is not my problem.

I'll post some pictures of the enclosure when I get home tonight.

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

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All boards cut, baffles being glued together.

IMG_3067_zpshektvew8.jpg

My niece in the box

IMG_3069_zpslulhc3bn.jpg

IMG_3068_zpsrprrykdx.jpg

Drilling the mounting holes, glassing the rear angles (US composites FTW), and sealing the seams with PL premium.

IMG_3076_zpsscznhpnb.jpg

When in, it extends slightly forward of the b-pillar, but this build is for me and i don't care about competition. Sealing it off will be another beast in itself. 3rd door welded closed, rear quarter windows painted black.

IMG_3071_zpswabw03rh.jpg

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

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