Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

Tips/pointers for my first design


SLYentist

Recommended Posts

What up,

This is my first time designing an enclosure in sketchup, so bear with me.

The box is for two Fi SP4 18s, installed as b-pillar wall. ~12.75 cubes @ 31.30hz.

Screen%20Shot%202015-03-15%20at%209.35.4

Screen%20Shot%202015-03-15%20at%209.46.1

The thread rod in the center is 3/4 inch. Is the thread rod enough for the chamber, or should I brace elsewhere? I only doubled the front baffle up, I would do the rear, but I'm worried about the weight and space constraints (the car is a coupe). I'll be rounding over the corners of the wood in the port to minimize chuffing, i just didn't want to animate that.

Any tips or tricks you could give me would be great before I start building this thing. Thanks!

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What up,

This is my first time designing an enclosure in sketchup, so bear with me.

The box is for two Fi SP4 18s, installed as b-pillar wall. ~12.75 cubes @ 31.30hz.

Screen%20Shot%202015-03-15%20at%209.35.4

Screen%20Shot%202015-03-15%20at%209.46.1

The thread rod in the center is 3/4 inch. Is the thread rod enough for the chamber, or should I brace elsewhere? I only doubled the front baffle up, I would do the rear, but I'm worried about the weight and space constraints (the car is a coupe). I'll be rounding over the corners of the wood in the port to minimize chuffing, i just didn't want to animate that.

Any tips or tricks you could give me would be great before I start building this thing. Thanks!

No tips ... Just build it and post the pic after .. Let's see how it goes ... :)

Fuck this shit... :diablo: :diablo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having the wooden piece in your port may not be the best. Slot ports dont normally flex that much,but if your worried you could always make your port 1.5in thick instead of just .75in thick.

2014 JKU

Sound:

pioneer xav-65

4 12in pioneer tsw3003d4

2 pioneer gm-d9601

(much more in route)

General:

18in worx rims

33in tire

stinger src bumpers

light bars

6k hids

2in leveling kit

3.25in lift

The Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/195839-2014-jku-build-4-12s/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You still need supports in your box. 18 will flex the box if it is not ridgid. Look at 1.5 thick plywood.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/


th_140x100square.jpgMechman_140x100px.JPGDCHome.jpgI

image_url-76414-1423274612_thumb.jpgimage_url-76414-1423320284_thumb.jpg

Pioneer P99RS
Ampere 3800
2-Ampere 125/4
4-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids
4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer

2-5.25 Satori Mids
2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars
2-Hertz Silk tweeters
DC Audio Level 5/12
Skyhigh Wire
Mechman 320
XS Power D3100

MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinda like what others have said, you need a lot more bracing. If you post a link to your sketchup file I can show you how I would brace that box.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinda like what others have said, you need a lot more bracing. If you post a link to your sketchup file I can show you how I would brace that box.

thanks, i can do that. I'm at work now, but when i get back to the house tonight i'll post a link. much appreciated.

I thought about 45s in the corners, but i didn't know exactly how to do that in sketchup, plus they might take up enough airspace to make them not worth it.

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks, i can do that. I'm at work now, but when i get back to the house tonight i'll post a link. much appreciated.

I thought about 45s in the corners, but i didn't know exactly how to do that in sketchup, plus they might take up enough airspace to make them not worth it.

45s in the corners isn't going to help with your bracing issue. If you want to put them in there for more gluing surface to strengthen up where the panels meet, that's fine, but they don't have to be very big to serve that purpose. If you make them so big that there is an empty space behind them, you made them too big.

How much power are you going to be putting to this thing?

Putting a larger 45 in the corner of your port would be a good idea though, along with rounding over the edge like you said you were going to.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plan for power is a Crescendo BC5500 at 1ohm, or maybe a Sundown NS-1 also at 1ohm. Depending on how deep I feel my pockets can go. So, about 6000watts.

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would scrap the 3/4" rod in the middle and do one 3/4" or 1" pipe and flange top and bottom (front to rear baffle) and like others mentioned go with 1.5" for the port walls.....in fact, I would do 1.5" walls all around and another 3/4" to 1.5" on that front baffle.

***I am by no means an experienced builder.....just going off recent experience of my first built enclosure that ended up coming out pretty decent for two Fi team 15s......so far it's holding up nicely.

Singer Alternators

Team Asshole

#anothershittysingerbuild

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinda like what others have said, you need a lot more bracing. If you post a link to your sketchup file I can show you how I would brace that box.

Here's a link to the file. It would be a little over 300KB. http://ul.to/ady4gf1e

@magillaru -- I'm really trying to keep the enclosure weight as low as possible while still being ridged, this is why i need bracing. I tried doubling up on everything, and i estimated the weight around 400lbs for just the enclosure. Something in the area of 200-250 is ideal. As it stands, this design will weigh about 180lbs. EDIT: made with MDF

Cables and wires almost never fail; the terminations do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1053 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...