Kicker comp 8 for midbass

[micker]

Fs of 40hz

Response of 30-500hz

Can't install in kicks as there are computers in there for the car

Doors are deadend and will also contain 6.5"comps

I can use amp and head unit crossovers

I can hi pass front rca on h/u at 80hz

And low pass the amp at 250hz (amp is 50-250)

Then set my comps at 250hz high pass

Or buy inline eq witch I think is better

And banpass 80-300hz 8"

And hi pass comps at 300hz

Looking to feed comp8" with 75rms

Amp is 75rms @4ohm 85rms @2ohm

I have 2 sets of kicker ds650.2 60rms rated

So I was either 1 set each door (4door) front on 75rms rear of h/u

Or put both in from door and run amp at 2ohm (85rms) each getting 43rms

Thanks in advance

[Skullz]

If you have no place to put them, then why use them?

Midbass require a lot of power and 85w is a joke for the amount of power you really need, 200w and up from an amplifier so you can make adjustments for getting the correct amount of midbass.

As you increase in speaker sizes, you have to increase the power going to them.

You will most likely have to build pods for the midbasses, and whether you attach them to the door or in the kicks is something you'll have to test out and see how much room each will require to achieve your goal.

[micker]

That sub is only rated at 55rms ported or free air and 100rms sealed

So I would like to think 75rms would work

And if I need more mid could I just use both 6.5 parell getting 40rms each

So each door has a 8" on 75 and 2 6.5 on 43rms

That way it should allow me to turn down the mid if required

I'm not aiming to keep up with anything sub wise as I have none

I have a kicker zx700.5 and can't fit anything behind my rear seat 4door Toyota truck

I brought a 10" 2ohm kicker cvt sub in kicker box and it didn't fit so I borrowed a friends kicker 8" slimline sub in kicker box and no fit either

I have approx 4" bottom 12" high wedge to work with

So looking to get something better bass wise in my doors as I have little options to add subs

I also saw they are realising a 2ohm version so if so I would have access to 85rms if it helps

All I have equipment wise at moment

Pioneer 2650 h/u

Kicker zx700.5

2 sets kicker ds650.2 comps still in box

4 gauge power and 3 sets rca leads

Front doors deadened with dinamat

4" square 2way kenwood speakers in dash (stock location

I have a mate with the same speakers on a cx300.4 getting 40rms a speaker

And for $50 a set delivered there not to bad for stock setup just no bass that all

[Skullz]

Before i got my subs in my last car i went through many brands and types of speakers to find ones that had the bass i was looking for.

The best sounding ones were.

Polk Audio - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14715_Polk-Audio-MM691.html

Damn good speaker that sounded good and had great bass output, but had an achilles heel in the surround that would tear from the extreme excursion the speakers would get with high amounts of power being fed to them at full range.

JBL P660c - http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12260_JBL-P660C.html

Excellent comp set for the price that can do everything you want at a budget that won't break the bank, they also suffer the same problem the polks do in tearing the surround with high amounts of power at full range.

Hertz HSK - http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/p-11726-hsk-1654-hertz-65-250w-peak-2-way-component-speaker-system.html

By far the best set of comps i have ever owned and did everything beyond expectations, they are well worth the money you'll spend on them, and as long as you do not go full range with insane amounts of power, they'll last a very long time. The triple joint tore at the spider and when i tried to glue it, but the gap was wide enough that the glue leaked down into the speaker ruining one, unhappy camper here.

Simply put you want a sub stage, cause if you try to play full range and play down to 40hz, you'll only spend countless amounts of money on speakers like i did, learn from my experiment in futility

The amp that did the damage to the speakers was an old school ppi pc2600 @150w ch@4ohm that put out much more than that.

Quality equipment makes all the difference in the world.

[firebirdude]

Argument of placement....or even doing it aside....CompRT would be the woofer for the job. They make both a 6.75" and 8" version both DVC and both available in 1 or 2 ohm flavours. And they'll handle 3X the power while being more shallow yet. MUCH more suited for a midbass.

[gckless]

I think your best option would be to find a spot for a shallow sub. There are some good shallow subs. You don't have any space under the rear seat? Have you measured either under or behind your seat?

[micker]

The car I have a ln106 with a custom flat tray in back

The car is very narrow and has no spec in rear

I have tryed to fit a cvt10 shallow sub and cvt8 behind rear seat with no success

The only thing that fits is a one of thoes 2" high compact sub amp combos that focal make

Due to the $$$ and shipping cost

I'm am very limited

http://www.customcar.com.au

This is the only imported and they distribute to to a vast number of auto chains, if you look on there site you will see there rrp prices and how limited our stock is of each brand

And see how good you guys have it over there

My zx700.5 is a $750 amp new and getting 350-400 secondhand

Normally I would buy online but with $1.30 buying $1us then the 10% import tax and shipping fees

It makes your Polk speaker that are on sale on sonic for $139 +127 shipping $266 then the $$$ and 10% tax take a $139us to $380au

[micker]

I have a friend that shipped a sundown x15 here

$700us in shipping alone for 1 sub when you do the maths a x15 in Aus is a 1900 sub

[micker]

All I want to do is add a bit more bass to the car without breaking the bank and doing it with no subbox

I did think about doing a centre console built as I have 5" between my 2 seats but after measuring I have about 13liters 0.4cuft with no sub using 1/2" mdf

I have seen 4" house/computer subs used there before in factory console

If I was to go the 6.5" compRT would that be a better option

I do have the sub Chanel spare on my zx700 210rms or 420@2ohm

But I think in my doors I would want stereo not mono sound?

[firebirdude]

All I want to do is add a bit more bass to the car without breaking the bank and doing it with no subbox

I did think about doing a centre console built as I have 5" between my 2 seats but after measuring I have about 13liters 0.4cuft with no sub using 1/2" mdf

I have seen 4" house/computer subs used there before in factory console

If I was to go the 6.5" compRT would that be a better option

I do have the sub Chanel spare on my zx700 210rms or 420@2ohm

But I think in my doors I would want stereo not mono sound?

The sub channel output of your source unit and sub channel on a 5-channel amp is mono by nature.