Joe X Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 OP how about your own subs but in ported rather than sealed, 12w3v3 in 1.5 cubic feet @ 30 Hz approximate cabin gain factored in: Here's the same sub in a 1 cf sealed box : From the plots you can see that there is a considerable output increase (up to 5 dB) in the bandwidth of interest 25-60Hz. As long as in your bandwidth of interest don't have much more than 3dB differences it will not be an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 I can understand your confusion OP so I will explain the technical jargon. Some songs have bass lines at 60-80hz. For this example we will say song A. Some songs have bass at 40hz. Song B. Some songs have mixed bass between 40-80hz. Song C. Let's set the head unit to 20/35 on the volume knob and bass boost is set to +15. With the digital design subwoofer, Song A will sound fine, song B will be WAY TOO LOUD and song C you will have to spend the entire song alternating between turning the music up and down or else the song will jump between louder than a shotgun and quieter than your door speakers. With the SA subwoofer in a sealed box, Song A, B, and C will all pretty much be equal in loudness. Either all three songs are quieter than your doors of all three songs are louder than a rock concert. You set the equalizer once and you don't have to worry about it being too loud and you don't have to worry about any surprises. How do I know all this? I have a VERY peaky box. A Millie (48hz) I have to set the bass to -15 and it STILL rattles my doors with dampening and the head unit set to 12/35. On the other hand, 24 hz, I can listen to that with the bass cranked up as high as it can possibly go and still be sitting comfortable. Ultimately, the 12" digital design in a ported box will be the loudest on ALL frequencies, but you will have to deal with it being TOO LOUD on some songs and having to crank the bass on other songs, while the SA in a sealed box you can just crank the bass and not worry about it again. Thanks for the clarification. Since my goal is to get very loud, going sealed again wouldnt cut it. It has the benefit of being steady between most frequencies but the overall db is not as much as going ported. So, my bass knob is right next to my knee and i already play with it a lot and fine tune the bass on every track as it is and thats on my sealed set up - so im use to it. Yes it would be super convenient to just set it on max and leave it there but if i had an option to do that vs being able to get super loud on every track with the downside of me having to adjust the bass knob for every track. Id go for the latter as im already use to doing that as it is. also.. - MOST- songs, esp electronic, has its bass notes in the 40hz area (pretty sure) so it being peaky in that region is a plus.. so what i need to know is this. for the bass in the 60-80 region and under 40hz, will adjustment with the bass knob be enough to bring it up the same level of loudness as the 40hz peaky area or will it come close but never be able to get as loud as that region? secondly - which brand of sub has the flattest response when going ported? has anyone come to a top 5 list for this yet? im sure its been researched to death. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 OP how about your own subs but in ported rather than sealed, 12w3v3 in 1.5 cubic feet @ 30 Hz approximate cabin gain factored in: Here's the same sub in a 1 cf sealed box : From the plots you can see that there is a considerable output increase (up to 5 dB) in the bandwidth of interest 25-60Hz. As long as in your bandwidth of interest don't have much more than 3dB differences it will not be an issue. hey thanks for showing me that.. i have wanted to go ported on the 2 w3s but space becomes an issue.. i got max about 2.3-2.4 cubes BEFORE displacements im working with and i would need at least 3.1 -3.2 cubes to run 2 w3s ported.. however last night i found if i remove my spare tire, i can drop the box lower and that means i can increase the height of the box and give myself a little more volume so i might be able to pull this off. for a pseudo hatchback type trunk would the sub and port be facing rear or sub rear and port towards driver? how would the placement of sub and port go? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 you just need to find the right combination of sub and box specs to give you what you want to have. Would u be able to help me with that? i can give u the measurements i can work with. if you can help me work up a box design, i can get it built by someone locally and also if u can help me find the right sub as well. I am totally cool with paying u for your time. I want to do this once and right. ive already blown too much money trying different set ups and dont want to continue doing that. i wish i could run 2 SA 12s ported but those things i heard need like 4 cubes for 2 12s.. if they could get into 3 or just over 3 cubes and still maintain a fairly flat curve that would be awesome and doable and id prob go for that as those things hit hard just how i like it. Im really trying to find a vid i saw a couple of weeks ago with a guy with 4 SAs and the damn thing hit SO hard.. it was wicked but the box was massive.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 It mainly comes down to the sub selection, response, box size and potential for output will depend on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inetba Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 No frequency is ever as loud as the peak frequency. You can lower the peak and raise the other frequencies, but then your peak won't be as loud. Here's an example: Box peaks at 140db @ 40hz. at 60hz, the box peaks at 132db. So you lower the bass @ 40hz using an equalizer so now 40hz maxes out at 132db. Now 40hz and 60hz sound similar. The only way you can get a different frequency to match your peak, is to lower your peak. You will get a flatter response, but you will lose peak output. As for sub and port placement, everyone typically agrees port back sub back is USUALLY best. If you can't fit that, then sub up port back is best. If you face the sub and port towards the cabin you can get massive cancelation which is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted June 20, 2015 Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 you just need to find the right combination of sub and box specs to give you what you want to have. Would u be able to help me with that? i can give u the measurements i can work with. if you can help me work up a box design, i can get it built by someone locally and also if u can help me find the right sub as well. I am totally cool with paying u for your time. I want to do this once and right. ive already blown too much money trying different set ups and dont want to continue doing that. i wish i could run 2 SA 12s ported but those things i heard need like 4 cubes for 2 12s.. if they could get into 3 or just over 3 cubes and still maintain a fairly flat curve that would be awesome and doable and id prob go for that as those things hit hard just how i like it. Im really trying to find a vid i saw a couple of weeks ago with a guy with 4 SAs and the damn thing hit SO hard.. it was wicked but the box was massive.. Post your max dimensions and I'll see what I can come up with, refresh my memory, what amp are you going to use? "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted June 20, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2015 you just need to find the right combination of sub and box specs to give you what you want to have. Would u be able to help me with that? i can give u the measurements i can work with. if you can help me work up a box design, i can get it built by someone locally and also if u can help me find the right sub as well. I am totally cool with paying u for your time. I want to do this once and right. ive already blown too much money trying different set ups and dont want to continue doing that. i wish i could run 2 SA 12s ported but those things i heard need like 4 cubes for 2 12s.. if they could get into 3 or just over 3 cubes and still maintain a fairly flat curve that would be awesome and doable and id prob go for that as those things hit hard just how i like it. Im really trying to find a vid i saw a couple of weeks ago with a guy with 4 SAs and the damn thing hit SO hard.. it was wicked but the box was massive.. Post your max dimensions and I'll see what I can come up with, refresh my memory, what amp are you going to use? ok here goes car: genesis coupe max dimensions without removing spare tire: 11 height x 30.5 width x 18 depth max dimensions with spare tire removal: ??? current box dimensions: 11 height x 30.5 width x 17 depth 2 JL w3v3s , sealed, chambered. amp: hifonics x1500.1d brutus XS power d1200 0 gauge wiring factory alt, factory starting battery, no big 3 I can upgrade the amp if necessary. Looking for loud and HARD hitting sub(s), peakyness in the 30-50 hz region is ok but mostly looking for a flat response. My JLs are weird, they are in a box built to specs and they have a pretty flat response but some tracks are super loud and some are weak as hell, so im constantly having to eq and adjust bass settings for almost every track.. Thank you for your help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted June 21, 2015 Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 You will need to take care of the spare for your JLs, 14x30.5x18 achieves 1.5 net per driver @31 Hz which would be an acceptable spec for your subs. But from your last comment I think something else is going on, you should run a tone sweep and take measurements at the headrest and post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akuma4u Posted June 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2015 You will need to take care of the spare for your JLs, 14x30.5x18 achieves 1.5 net per driver @31 Hz which would be an acceptable spec for your subs. But from your last comment I think something else is going on, you should run a tone sweep and take measurements at the headrest and post them. 1) where can i get a high quaity tone sweep mp3? 2) "take measurements at the headrest" - i dont understand what this means pls explain i think a lot of the issue with loudness and frequency has to do with the design of the trunk of my car.. the cabin gain is extremely poor as there is only a small opening when the seats are down for the bass to fill into the cabin. This opening is too small and most of the bass gets trapped in the trunk and never gets a chance to get inside the cabin. And not only that, but i ALWAYS have to have the seats down in order to get bass. If the seats are up, no word of a lie, it sounds like my 2 12s suddenly have become 1 beefy 6 inch. THE car is solid, the back of the seats are hard plastic so its not like foam where the bass can flow through, the bass CAN NOT pass through the seats. Its like "You shall not pass! " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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