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Pictures of YOUR tee nuts/barbed inserts in use


dsw422

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If you mount your woofers facing up (cone to the roof), they are not that bad. When you mount your woofers horizontally, you will have a bad time, regardless of if the are 20lbs or 70lbs.

Just use #10 spax and call it a day if it is for woofers.

My 2 cents would be to only use them where you have a good amount of room to work and where you dont need to hold 40 lbs up while you put them in.

For holding a window or panel on, they aren't that bad, but i would go the route posted above with the links.

Thanks for the info.. I guess I'll ask everyone for pics of barbed inserts being used..

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Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

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Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

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Good plan, I will never use them again in an application where I can't reach the backside. The damn barbs never stay put and then it just spins when you try to remove the screw, leading to hours of trying to get them far enough out that you can get a hacksaw blade in to cut them. Fuck T-nuts!

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114-phone-bafflewithinsertsrear.jpg

I put mine on the backside of my baffle, so they don't have the potential of ripping out the frontside.

I wanted to use M6 bolts to hold my subs since I didn't want to take the chance of my MDF baffle getting stripped out from screws.

They've functioned well in that regard as I've had my subs in and out a few times.

BUT, like most have mentioned, if you cross thread one.....its DONE.

A BITCH to get back out. Happened to me on one occasion.

So you have to be very careful when tightening the bolts that they don't tighten up and cross thread.

Had a rivet-nut do the same thing to me in my trunk.....almost ripped the whole trunk lid off in frustration.... O_O

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Best way to use a tnut I've found is sandwich it between layers of the baffle if its for the woofers. Can't back out or spin unless the barbs snap off. For inserts use woodglue or some adhesive or epoxy when you put them in. They set up very sturdy. Should have no problems. I had threaded inserts holding my Fi BL18 at an angle that broke screws left and right. Inserts never backed out or stripped.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

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Best way to use a tnut I've found is sandwich it between layers of the baffle if its for the woofers. Can't back out or spin unless the barbs snap off. For inserts use woodglue or some adhesive or epoxy when you put them in. They set up very sturdy. Should have no problems. I had threaded inserts holding my Fi BL18 at an angle that broke screws left and right. Inserts never backed out or stripped.

how about some adhesive on the tee nuts?? should work the same.. ill probable go with the barbed inserts though.. for the box im getting ready to build, ill need about 40!! lol

im going to use those cam locks next time i build a box.

?? like for cabinet drawers??

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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Best way to use a tnut I've found is sandwich it between layers of the baffle if its for the woofers. Can't back out or spin unless the barbs snap off. For inserts use woodglue or some adhesive or epoxy when you put them in. They set up very sturdy. Should have no problems. I had threaded inserts holding my Fi BL18 at an angle that broke screws left and right. Inserts never backed out or stripped.

how about some adhesive on the tee nuts?? should work the same.. ill probable go with the barbed inserts though.. for the box im getting ready to build, ill need about 40!! lol

im going to use those cam locks next time i build a box.

?? like for cabinet drawers??
Idk if I'd trust the barbed inserts. Looks nice tho. I just do a course thread insert with #10 or 1/4" inner threads. Screw in from the top where the sub mounts to. Never had them back out even without glue. They were very secure.

My SPL to SQ Build Log

Vehicle:
1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT
5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6
Stock Alt

Equipment:

Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT

Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel

Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D

Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12

Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy

Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers 

Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5"

Processor- MiniDSP 2x4

RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series

Wire- EB Flex 2/0

 

-Member of Team SounDrive

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Idk if I'd trust the barbed inserts. Looks nice tho. I just do a course thread insert with #10 or 1/4" inner threads. Screw in from the top where the sub mounts to. Never had them back out even without glue. They were very secure.

gotcha.. ill weigh my options between the 2.. hell i may even use both.. lol..

In case yall were wondering, ill be using the fasteners to put together a 4th order in a crown vic.. ill be building it in a week or so.. its 4 parts...

sealed box

ported box

port

access panel (mdf)

heres the three main pieces..

pieces.png

and here is what itll look like put together..

xray%204th.png

2014 Ford Focus SE Sedan

Factory Sony 10 Speaker Sound System

1994 Ford Bronco

Dual head unit (i kno)

Sony door speakers

Kenwood Rear Speakers

Custom Center console in the works. will house an NVX NSW10"

https://m.facebook.com/WinnsCustomCarAudio/

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