CleanSierra Posted June 27, 2015 Report Share Posted June 27, 2015 Usually test tones you find, like the one you found, will be recorded at a 0 dB overlap. The overlap you will WANT is likely a -5dB or -10dB. Also, stop using the mulimeter method, you're better off guessing and going by ear. Doubt you have NO idea where the signal starts to distort from the head unit, setting the gain to a predetermined voltage will not benefit you AT ALL. If the volume on the head unit you've chosen to match is already dirty guess what? You're matching a dirty signal. Dirty in= dirty out. Find someone with a DD-1 or scope and get it for the right way. P.S. A 2K amp on many, many cars, will be too much for them to keep up with and end up causing heat or bad voltage drop. Fix the gain setting first and then see where you are. Those amps run a little hot in nature, I owned a couple of them. Sending the amp into protect at stoplights is telling me you've got something else going on though. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
757lmj Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Is 12 gauge wire sufficient for 3 500 rms subs? I wouldn't see why not. And it's not that long of a run either. That tone makes sense tho cuz they all seemed louder then my cds. And what u said about tuning it by ear... that's pretty much what I did bc my headunit seems to start distorting at 36 or 37 out of 50.. so I set everything to be good up to that. highs and bass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
757lmj Posted June 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 What could that something else be? Could my alt be shot?? It whined in march but I didn't see any problems besides the sound. I have 0 gauge everywhere and 2 yellowtops. I don't get how I'm losin that much voltage. Would regrounding help? I've gone over everything like I've said. Everything that I know to at least Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 28, 2015 Report Share Posted June 28, 2015 Could be poor grounds, but more than likely the alt. what size alt is it? 12gauge is fine from amp to subs. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
757lmj Posted June 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 90 amp. 96 blazer tho it may have some age Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moredbs Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 your 90 amp stock alternator, was designed to run your stock vehicle. theres usually a little headroom on them for adding some accessories, but in my opinion 2k is pushing it. i ran a jl 1000/1 on my chevy stock alternator ( 110 amp i think,its been a while) and it would shut off soon as i got on it a little. added a second battery, and it would stay on, but my voltage still stunk. the amp your running is a little more powerful than what i had. also i had the big 3 done as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 30, 2015 Report Share Posted June 30, 2015 Not enough alt. that's your drop. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
757lmj Posted July 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Good shit I thought that might have been it. How high of an hoa can I go without sacrificing idle rpms? Ppl say over 300 and it's no good. Idk what the deal is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Around 300A seems to be when idle starts cutting out on most, unless you have a hairpin alt. when I bought my 270A hairpin (220A idle) singer also offered me a few like 330A and 370A hairpins that had over 250A at idle. So try to get a hairpin stator alternator if you can SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted July 1, 2015 Report Share Posted July 1, 2015 Yep, a 90A is not going to be near enough supply for that amp. Also, yellowtops are not that good anymore. Quite a few stories of them going downhill after they moved the plant to Mexico in '11 or '12, forgot which. Might want to check those individually too. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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