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Voltage worse after adding rear battery


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So to start I have a t1500bdcp, t400.4 and 3 10" p3 Mechman 240, cvs shca 0awg, duralast agm up front and a kinetic hc1400 in the back. So up until about a week ago I had everything running off the front batterie and would never see 12s unless I'm stopped. I would never go below 14 as long as I played between 34-38hz. So I took the time to move my power wire to the rear batt thinking my voltage would be better but instead now I'm lucky to stay in the high 13 no matter what I play. And when I play songs higher songs 45hz and up I'll drop to 12's when driving and 11's when stopped and I've never had that happen when running off the front battery. What would cause this? The power wire for the system is fosgate 0awg and the run that connects the front to the rear is the cca shca

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If the amplifier is grounded to the rear battery or to the same location as it, it could be a poor ground location. Had that issue once.

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The amp is grounded separate from the rear battery is grounded to a bolt that holds the rear brake line down which screws directly into the frame of my truck. On a side note. Is the frame a good ground? If the power wire were to touch ground it sparks right? I didn't get any sparks when I directly touched the power wire coming from my front battery to the frame. But it sparked when I accidentally touched the heat shield above my exhaust. Does that mean it's a bad ground?

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The amp is grounded separate from the rear battery is grounded to a bolt that holds the rear brake line down which screws directly into the frame of my truck. On a side note. Is the frame a good ground? If the power wire were to touch ground it sparks right? I didn't get any sparks when I directly touched the power wire coming from my front battery to the frame. But it sparked when I accidentally touched the heat shield above my exhaust. Does that mean it's a bad ground?

Check voltage on front bank and rear bank both, they should be within tenths. If they're not, start with grounds, but you've got a less than acceptable connection somewhere between your front bank and back bank. Check everything down to making sure lugs were filled with solder if soldered, or fully crimped properly if they were crimped. Touching your power wire to metal where it was grounded to see if it sparks, etc, will compromise your wire, don't do that. Use a meter.

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Your front to rear run is CCA, what size is the wire, how long is the run and how is it terminated on each end? Is this a new run of wire?

What were your before and after configurations?

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It's 0awg and its about 12-15 feet long. 10 feet down from the front battery there's a fuse and it goes about another 2-4 feet from there. From he front battery it's connected with a toolmaker battery block and to The rear its solder. I Filled the lug with solder then put the wire in the lug and let the excess flow over. Its all pretty much brand new. I installed everything in late February and just barly got to using the rear batt. When I got under he car again I noticed I did a crappy job at connecting the wire into the fuse block (the wire just pulls out. And on the end of that wire it was all corroded. The strands of copper were burnt and there was this white powder that came off it and it was really stiff. It was like this about a foot down the wire till It looked like new wire again. So I cut that part off. When I opend it up that powder was all in the center of it. Is the whole run of wire bad? Is that my problem? And the only changes in my system is I went from using my front battery to my back. I didn't swap any wire I just cut that bad piece off. Gimme about a hr and ill post pics of it

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