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after big three less voltage


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http://s864.photobucket.com/user/mmacleod1983/library/

Ill try to update with more pics. But you can see the battery terminals are corroded to shiznit and my battery gauge goes into the negative pretty far

never used to do this.

when I start my truck it will go into the positive slightly but at stop lights or idle its in the negative

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Clean your terminals off. You can use some Coca-Cola and a wire brush. Make sure you get both sides of each connector, then put dielectric grease everywhere metal touches metal, and then on the top of the top connection. If you're not dropping into the 12's, you really don't need to worry about your voltage too much. You're not hitting battery resting voltages. Just make sure you keep your connections clean

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Clean your terminals off. You can use some Coca-Cola and a wire brush. Make sure you get both sides of each connector, then put dielectric grease everywhere metal touches metal, and then on the top of the top connection. If you're not dropping into the 12's, you really don't need to worry about your voltage too much. You're not hitting battery resting voltages. Just make sure you keep your connections clean

Here it is!

All cleaned up and soldered together!

http://s864.photobucket.com/user/mmacleod1983/media/photo%209_zps8hm2gbjg.jpg.html

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Clean your terminals off. You can use some Coca-Cola and a wire brush. Make sure you get both sides of each connector, then put dielectric grease everywhere metal touches metal, and then on the top of the top connection. If you're not dropping into the 12's, you really don't need to worry about your voltage too much. You're not hitting battery resting voltages. Just make sure you keep your connections clean

Here it is!

All cleaned up and soldered together!

http://s864.photobucket.com/user/mmacleod1983/media/photo%209_zps8hm2gbjg.jpg.html

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Clean your terminals off. You can use some Coca-Cola and a wire brush. Make sure you get both sides of each connector, then put dielectric grease everywhere metal touches metal, and then on the top of the top connection. If you're not dropping into the 12's, you really don't need to worry about your voltage too much. You're not hitting battery resting voltages. Just make sure you keep your connections clean

Here it is!

All cleaned up and soldered together!

http://s864.photobucket.com/user/mmacleod1983/media/photo%209_zps8hm2gbjg.jpg.html

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just went to town and bought some. took terminals off put a few sprays on posts and a nice fat layer over everything else.

Noticed an improvement slightly in my bass response

But I went ahead and ordered a new battery.

I think that is the culprit.

Im getting a steady supply of voltage around 13.89.13.96

big bass it drops down to 13.40 or so.

Either way...

13+ is good I supppose and now I know everything it tight and done proper

Went with the XS D4800

came out below budget too

Just gonna leave the stock alternator and see how she performs.

Im only pushing maybe 1300-1500 watts probably more like 1000 but amps are rated at 500 rms at 2 ohms at 14.41 volts

I have two sub amps and a 300 watt amp on the highs

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This is a strange theory, but what sort of vehicle are we talking about here? As the owner of a Trailblazer, i know what it's like working with a vehicle that has a strange system in place for battery charging.

My theory is what controls your alternator uses an algorithm for battery charging that might monitor battery charge rate, and when you went to bigger cables it needed to send shorter pwm signals to keep the battery at it's programmed voltage window, because your old cables had significantly higher resistance. This computer might also monitor each pulse sent out vs the raise in battery charge, which could affect the charge voltage, amperage, and pwm signal considerably. If this computer sees a more "ideal" result when monitoring this, it might back off the voltage it sends out.

If this was the case, i wouldn't be surprised. What are you using to monitor your voltage, btw? If it's the dash gauge, a whole host of things could affect that. Mechanical ones can be notoriously inaccurate when you change the factory electrical setup. My recommendation would be to buy a $5 harbor freight/walmart DMM, extend the leads with some speaker wire, run around the edge of the hood, into the cabin, and monitor your voltage that way. Compare that to your gauge, worst case senario you end up with a DMM with really long leads that can be hardwired into something.

Don't trust a shop but you personally just smoked two decks, makes sense.

03' Trailblazer LT
Dayton Designer 6.5"s & Silkie tweeters
Dayton Audio Ultimax 18"
Pioneer 9601 & 8604
XS Power D3400
2 runs 1/0
Singer 250

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This is a strange theory, but what sort of vehicle are we talking about here? As the owner of a Trailblazer, i know what it's like working with a vehicle that has a strange system in place for battery charging.

My theory is what controls your alternator uses an algorithm for battery charging that might monitor battery charge rate, and when you went to bigger cables it needed to send shorter pwm signals to keep the battery at it's programmed voltage window, because your old cables had significantly higher resistance. This computer might also monitor each pulse sent out vs the raise in battery charge, which could affect the charge voltage, amperage, and pwm signal considerably. If this computer sees a more "ideal" result when monitoring this, it might back off the voltage it sends out.

If this was the case, i wouldn't be surprised. What are you using to monitor your voltage, btw? If it's the dash gauge, a whole host of things could affect that. Mechanical ones can be notoriously inaccurate when you change the factory electrical setup. My recommendation would be to buy a $5 harbor freight/walmart DMM, extend the leads with some speaker wire, run around the edge of the hood, into the cabin, and monitor your voltage that way. Compare that to your gauge, worst case senario you end up with a DMM with really long leads that can be hardwired into something.

you lost me at algorithm...

All I know is my lights were dimming after I added a second sub and amp.

I upgraded to big three

I have now ordered a new battery (hope this solves my problem)

I used a volt meter from wal mart and tested voltage at amp, alternator and battery posts

all remain prettty constant at 13.76 on big bass and up to 14.21 in between

I seem to have eliminated the clipping though so im happy

I believe the cheap battery that was fine until the new current draw is the problem

New battery should be here within the week

ill update how she performs

2004 dodge ram btw

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