mmacleod1983 Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 Lights were dimming during bass, been like this since I installed 2nd amp for subs checked alt and was getting 14.10-14.21 volts several months ago when radio and a/c were on it dropped between 13.78-14.01 volts had some 2 awg welding lead and did the big three upgrade today noticed battery had fluid coming out of fill caps and quite a bit of corrosion on the negative terminal cleaned it all up took to autozone battery tested fine and showed 975 cranking amps now my battery indicator on my dash has slowly been pointing more towards negative not much but it used to point more towards positive bass seems to distort at volume levels it used to play fine at. I checked the voltage with accessories off and get 13.78- 13.90 volts no voltage drop with radio on or accessories but why am I not getting the 14.41 I used to get? This is a 2004 ram with the 136 amp stock alternator running 1000 watts rms on subs and 300 watts rms on highs Is my alternator on the fritz? I have been wanting to upgrade to a 275 amp alt I found on ebay but figured i'd wait to see if the big three would solve problem maybe ive done this alternator in by beating on it too long??? The battery is a cheap mastercraft battery, but I think its the battery not getting enough juice from the alternator. Any suggestions are appreciated before I drop the $300 to upgrade alternator and battery thanks in advance
reedal Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 Did you or anyone else put some distilled water into the battery to replace the fluid lost? Alternator could be going. It wouldn't hurt getting a larger alt that is more likely to supply the current your truck and aftermarket equipment need together, but it might not be your fix. I think it's your battery. I'd replace that, grab a new alt, and I'd think your voltage would be around 14.4 again. When you did your big 3, did you add the welding wire to the existing connections, or remove the old stuff and replace it with the welding wire? SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
mmacleod1983 Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Posted October 14, 2015 I added wire to alternator one ground to engine block and one ground to side of truck frame near battery so added 2 grounds to existing electrical and 1 positve to existing where positive bolts onto alternator and he checked fluid levels with bulb type baster looking thing and said levels were fine and my alternator may be having voltage surges which could cause the fluid to boil over but mastercraft batteries were known for this so it probably is the battery, but he assured me it was fine and the alternator was fine but what does he know about car stereos? NOTHING!
reedal Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 I don't trust autozone for shit except cleaning supplies, because they're cheaper there but the people who work at every auto zone I've been to either don't know shit, or only know how to change the oil which is enough to make them store manager. I'd either fill that battery up, or get a new one (I'd get the new one personally, an AGM, that way no more spills) SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32
SnowDrifter Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 Voltage went down after cleaning your battery?To verify your before/after readings were carried out at the alt, correct? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
kandiman71874 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 Voltage output on your alternator will also decrease as the thermal temp of your alt goes up FYI. Daily Driver 1999 Kia Sephia Kenwood DNX-893s Audison Bit One Processor 2 Dat 4.125's Sundown Audio SCV-6k Hertz hsk-165xl's Mids running active Focal V30 Series Tweeters running active Sundown Sa-8 v1's in the doors 2 Sundown Zv5 12's Lots of Hushmat Big 3+ and 3 + & 3- runs of Trystar 2/0 2 Dc Power Engineering 320 HP Alts 2017 Comp Vehicle 2006 Toyota 4 Runner Kenwood Excelon DNX-893s Audison Bit One HD DSP 4 Sundown Sa 6.5v2 Component Sets Focal Access 6.5 2 ways Sundown Audio Sax-50.4 Sundown Audio Sax-100.4 2 Dc Power 370xp Northstar agm27f Northstar agm65 2 Northstar asmagm 480's 2 Dual 1 Sundown Nightshade v3 12's 2 Sundown SCV-7500's All SMD Fuse Holders Shitload Of Sundown 1/0 120 sq ft Second Skin Damp Pro No, Its Not A Burp Truck!!!! 2016 Season 3rd place in Xtreme 1 At Finals 2016 Season 6th Place In Kaos 1 At Finals ( Blew The Subs Up In First Round Eliminations) 2 Kansas State Records Set In 2016 In Xtreme 1 And Kaos 1 In Midwest SPL David said: audio is a lifestyle, not a hobby newls1 I cant read a tape to save my life... 1/2's are ok, but other marks confuse me kingsuv only men who cant read a tape, take it in the ass kingsuv you sir, get a pink hard hat on jobsites
mmacleod1983 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Posted October 15, 2015 the voltage was tested in several places showed the same voltage between 13.78- 13.91 roughly I turned on A/C and cranked the system and voltage stayed the same Several months ago I tested the system after installing my second amp and voltage showed 14.01-14.11 respectively... My lights began to dim and dash lights would dim on my way to work and in the afternoon after work and after a hot afternoon with no lights my system seemed to distort at the same volume this is when I noticed that my voltage indicator on my dash began pointing slightly toward the "L" rather than the "H' not much but it always pointed about an 1/8th of an inch toward a positive charge now it stays about an 1/8th of an inch pointed towards the negative So I decided to do the big three today hoping I would see a voltage increase on the dash After the upgrade I checked voltage at amp, at battery and at the alternator all showed less than 14 volts which never used to happen. even with the stereo at full volume I am still getting a charge from my alternator but only around 13.78-13.91 volts I havent driven the truck at night yet to see if my lights are dimming but I can definitely tell that my amp is clipping at the normal volume I play my system at My amps are rated for 500 watts rms each and my subs handle 350 rms so its obviously having a voltage drop somewhere because the subs are clipping without a change to my gain settings. which are currently set about 1/3 of the way up. my highs are not as crisp and mid bass response has gone to shit. I know 1-2 volts doenst seem like much but it has to be the alternator or my battery in my opinion Voltage output on your alternator will also decrease as the thermal temp of your alt goes up FYI.
mmacleod1983 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Posted October 15, 2015 I don't trust autozone for shit except cleaning supplies, because they're cheaper there but the people who work at every auto zone I've been to either don't know shit, or only know how to change the oil which is enough to make them store manager. I'd either fill that battery up, or get a new one (I'd get the new one personally, an AGM, that way no more spills) what battery do you suggest? I am not interested in spending $300 for a battery. a 250 amp alternator is $135 on Ebay for my model so I would like to spend $165 on a battery Any suggestions? I told the wife it was going to be a $300 fix so that is my budget
mmacleod1983 Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Posted October 15, 2015 This is what I was looking to replace my current battery and alternator with... Its only two 10's and three amps. total rms output around 1300-1500 watts rms http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Kinetik-HC1200-BLU-1200-Watt-12V-High-Current-AGM-Car-Battery-Power-Cell-/291556252996?hash=item43e21b5d44&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Dodge-Ram-Durango-250-AMP-Generator-3-7-4-7-NEW-/252124060023?vxp=mtr
Lakeshow94 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 This is what I was looking to replace my current battery and alternator with... Its only two 10's and three amps. total rms output around 1300-1500 watts rms http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Kinetik-HC1200-BLU-1200-Watt-12V-High-Current-AGM-Car-Battery-Power-Cell-/291556252996?hash=item43e21b5d44&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Dodge-Ram-Durango-250-AMP-Generator-3-7-4-7-NEW-/252124060023?vxp=mtr No 250 amp alternator is that cheap. Not a quality one anyways. If it does do rated output it will probably be around 3000 rpms. Look at brands such as dc, singer, mechman. You'd probably be better off buying a new stock alt vs a cheap "ho". As for the battery kinetik isn't bad, they are good for the price 1999 Lexus GS 300 Pioneer DEH-80PRS Singer 240 Amp (Will be installed later) Northstar Group 31 & 24 Sundown SCV-4000 Rockford T400-4 2 12" CT Sound Meso CT Sounds 6.5 Meso Components CT Sounds Tropo 6.5
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