MotorCityFats13 Posted October 18, 2015 Report Share Posted October 18, 2015 So I drew up this little scenario, what is the common diode spec or part #'s that people use in this 12vdc application... I been watching youtube videos and reading articles but they only explain the theory behind diodes and diode types, not application specific parts... also share if you have a much more easy way of achieving this final goal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wicks Posted October 21, 2015 Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Why do you need this isolation? You'll need a MASSIVE diode to accomplish this. Google 12v isolator. Something like this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_61067_Stinger-S2402.html You'll have to make sure the diode can handle the current draw you're applying. There will be voltage drop across the diode as well. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorCityFats13 Posted October 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2015 Why do you need this isolation? You'll need a MASSIVE diode to accomplish this. Google 12v isolator. Something like this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_61067_Stinger-S2402.html You'll have to make sure the diode can handle the current draw you're applying. There will be voltage drop across the diode as well. it will be less then 5amps draw and only using a 16awg wire... the draw up is generic and not a representative of what I am trying to learn.... the thing I am trying to do will not have any adverse effects from a variance of 11.5-14.5 vdc so I am not worried about voltage drops... I am only using one battery.... in my situation batt#2 is really the fuse box and accessory is really my headunit I could just pass the current through a relay and this will stop the back feed.... but one diode vs 4 wires on a relay sounds like something worth learning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Don't really understand the point of why u want to do this? Why don't you just run a fused separate wire from underhood battery to the hu to isolate it. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 22, 2015 Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 Also curious why you want to do this? That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorCityFats13 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2015 I tackled this project because it was brought up over at the explorer forums...everyone said it cant be done and with the canbus system you had to buy the over priced pac box... i patched in to the RAP feature of my explorer at the window power proving it can be done... but if you keep the HU power wire connected it makes the RAP stay active even after you open the door with the key removed.... so I disconnected the factory red wire...not a single problem but somebody over at explorer forums asked if it can be done so both wires can stay connected and I told them it works just as designed with only the one wire, but he feels like there might be a problem powering the radio off the window circuit. I know I can do a relay but those people over there want simple and what I have now is just adding 1 wire and removing 1 wire so simple anyone can do it but you always have a skeptic..... so adding 1 wire and a diode would make this person happy.... but Im starting to not want to make this one person happy and if he dont like it then buy the retained accessory power box .... this is also the same diode setup used to isolate door triggers for alarms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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