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I used a bunch of different size/brand and ofc and cca wire with no luck. With the speaker output being AC current I don't see how the OM-1 could not work on one output but work on the other like the manual says for some multi channel amps.

Well at least your cutting down on possible things that could be wrong. Though I know, it's frustrating. II don't understand why the manual states that either.

I have not soldered the connections because I have been trying so many different things and to be honest I hope that it doesn't need to be soldered just to work properly. Everything else works without being soldered so hopefully the signal wire shouldn't have to be just to get it to move.

Soldering every connection is a good rule of thumb, that's why I do it. Not for conductivity. Though it's nice to know the connection is not going to come un-done.

I've noticed it could be pretty easy to damage these when mounting or configuring the sensitivty on the meter. Perhaps thats the problem...

Maybe the grey wire came lose from the circuit board? Or maybe it has a cold-joint? I don't know if these are hand-made or not, but if they are, there is a tiny possibility of this. In that case you could send it in for warranty... A cold joint is easy to fix, just re-heat the solder where the grey wire connects to the board. Don't over-heat it, just quickly heat till liquid

then let it cool again.

If you can measure with a DMM and see AC signal at the terminal the grey wire is connected to on the amp... then unless the wire isn't connected at the meter, there is no other point of possible failure.

I'll check it out today when I get a chance and try out the (-) output. Fingers crossed

1998 chevy blazer 4 door

stock alt 105a

Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3

Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga

subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's)

Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs

Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash 

sae 50.4 for mids and highs

SMD OM-1 on the subs

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You must use the negative speaker output on many Sundown (and other) amps.

Thanks! I'll give it a try! Why is that the case? Just curious.

1998 chevy blazer 4 door

stock alt 105a

Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3

Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga

subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's)

Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs

Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash 

sae 50.4 for mids and highs

SMD OM-1 on the subs

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Share on other sites

Well I tried the (-) speaker output and now it works perfect! And it is just awesome! Can't wait to get this calibrated with a dd-1. Then i'll be good to go!

1998 chevy blazer 4 door

stock alt 105a

Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3

Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga

subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's)

Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs

Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash 

sae 50.4 for mids and highs

SMD OM-1 on the subs

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Share on other sites

Glad you got this sorted out, I just read you had power & ground from your HU, i just ran everything off my amps.

HU: Pioneer 4100 NEX
Subs: 2 Rockford Fosgate R2SD4-10"
Amp: Rockford Fosgate P500-1bd wired @ 1ohm
Front: Polk Audio Components DB6501
Amp: Pioneer GM A5602 wired @ 4 ohm
Rear: Polk Audio Coaxials db651s
(2) OM-1s, (1) VM-1

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Glad you got this sorted out, I just read you had power & ground from your HU, i just ran everything off my amps.

i gotcha. i was going to do that but i just barely didnt have enough wire to make 3 runs (power,ground and signal) so i figure with as little current as the OM-1 draws just tapping into the HU power and ground should be fine.

1998 chevy blazer 4 door

stock alt 105a

Battery: Autocraft Gold 75-3

Big Three in Sky High Car Audio 4ga

subs: rockford p2 12's (soon to be sundown SA 12's)

Sundown SAZ-1200d on the subs

Mids and Highs: Infinity kappa 6.5 mid in front doors and tweets in Dash 

sae 50.4 for mids and highs

SMD OM-1 on the subs

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