infinitefoamies Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 I have to eliminate the lever type cable control for the air/vents on my 1971 K10 Suburban project to make room for electronics. My goal is for the new setup to not protrude off the inside of the dash more than an inch. Choke cables are cheap off Amazon so that seems like a good place to start. I am also adding A/C and a re-circulation control as stock did not have one. I should be able to better control the temperature. Of course I can't simply just make a plate to mount the cables and fan switches, so I am 3D printing it such that text describing each control will be back-lit. Now instead of having text just lit up that tells you to push the cable for this and pull for that, I am 'simply' going to illuminate for example the 'hot' text when the temp door is on heat, and illuminate the 'cool' text when it is on A/C, however these are not on/off settings, they are linear. So my plan is to hook Linear Pot's to the cables and have the illumination fade with the control of the cable. Here is the current drawing: I am going to play with the slot as I am also adding Rear A/C and want a separate fan control. 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinitefoamies Posted December 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Currently I have it so the letters are voids in the print, and the light will go down the letters. Does anyone have thoughts on this? would it be better to have a box of void and the letters thicker so there is illumination around the letters? 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tboorn Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 dude i dont know but this i pretty neat so im in for whatever knowledge happens Fidelity Built to Last Team Sound Asleep 24Runner Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/196657-24runner-sleeper-system-lots-of-fi-neo-dd-focal-new-video-w-juicebox-lithium/ 2 x 12" Fi BTL N2 / 2 x 12" Fi BTL N3 2 DD M3b Maxwell 2.7V 3000F Supercapacitors Pioneer DEH-80prs Focal P165 V30 components Rockford Fosgate T-400.4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted December 6, 2015 Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Was just going to add that. I think you're going to be doing some trial and error and I think your plan is solid. Of course until you start it you never know. Not slot of people doing this with the 3D printers yet. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
infinitefoamies Posted December 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2015 Thanks guys, I am a bit unsure of some things but as you said, just have to do it. Filament is cheap. I am making the make part of the plate .3" thick hoping that will be enough to handle the stress/strain from these old style cable controls. I am using ABS on a Makerbot 2x. Does anyone have experience using a linear pot to dim lamps? I guess I will X-Post to an electronic section/forum. 1971 K10 Suburban - Chummins 1973 MG B GT 1981 Tartan 3000 1988 F350 XLT Lariat IDI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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