Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 What should I expect? I was originally okay with sticking with my stock 160a alt but as I plan on keeping this rig I'd like to avoid the possibly of being stranded with a fried alt. The stocker keeps my voltage stable when cruising and at full tilt (approx. 2700wrms) but at red lights it drops quickly. Will upgrading to a 240a hairpin mechman power my system to its full capabilities and still leave me some headroom or should I be looking for something even larger? I'm running my 2300w amp at 1ohm right now but if i end up upgrading im going be interested in running 2 15s at .5 ohm will the alt support that without straining? Also when I upgrade should I expect a increase in volume/ not to clip as early on? And along with this I will be buy a new starting and secondary battery. I have shca 2/0 ofc wire for my big 3. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 I have an app that tells me optimal electrical load ur vehical can support. Give me ur battery info AH/ hours and I can mock up an estimate what the electrical can support. I know my dodge with 136 alt, deka group 34 AGM battery can support up to 2000 watts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Hey thanks man, i'd probably be running 2 70ah batterys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 When i had my 230A 3 phase, i held high 13s revved and low 13s at idle with ~4500 wrms between my frontstage and subs. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 Specifically two of these http://4xspower.com/shop/d-series/d2400/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 When i had my 230A 3 phase, i held high 13s revved and low 13s at idle with ~4500 wrms between my frontstage and subs.That seems pretty reasonable, your alt didn't seem to strain much then? How much light dimming were you getting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 When i had my 230A 3 phase, i held high 13s revved and low 13s at idle with ~4500 wrms between my frontstage and subs.That seems pretty reasonable, your alt didn't seem to strain much then? How much light dimming were you getting? nah, it was fine. Light dimming seemed nonexistent.. but I run HIDs in my lows and LEDs throughout my cabin. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 I don't know what ur main battery AH rating is but if u have a 55 AH (amp hour) rated battery and add a second battery for ur amp rated at 100 ah add the ratings together it's 155 total AH now factor in ur 160 amp alt and a rough charging voltage of 14v and "resting" voltage of 12.8 my app calculations says u can handle about 3100 Assuming u have a 55 ah battery with ur 160 amp alt u can handle 2200 watts as of today with out second battery. If it was me I would just add a second battery in ur vehical close to the amp. Someone else with more experience in this area might chime in and give u the same or better plan/answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irocthestreetz Posted December 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 When i had my 230A 3 phase, i held high 13s revved and low 13s at idle with ~4500 wrms between my frontstage and subs.That seems pretty reasonable, your alt didn't seem to strain much then? How much light dimming were you getting? nah, it was fine. Light dimming seemed nonexistent.. but I run HIDs in my lows and LEDs throughout my cabin. Right on, when you were at a stand still how long would you voltage stay in the 13s/high 12s at full tilt? And what brand of alt were you using, thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted December 27, 2015 Report Share Posted December 27, 2015 You likely won't experience any audible difference just from upgrading your electrical. Upgrading your alt will mean you have more amperage to provide your amplifiers meaning they are more likely to be able to provide what they're rated for. As for running at .5ohm, your alt should have no problem supporting the extra 100-200w that you're going to get from your amp. Can your amp support it? Why make an inefficient Class D amp even more inefficient by wiring it lower, for little to no gain in output power, and more excess heat? I personally would suggest buying an amp that puts out the power you want at 2ohm if you'regoing to buy subs that your only wiring options are .5, 2, or 8ohms. The amp will be more efficient and last much longer SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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