ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I think you might have something here with dual runs to the front battery and this is how you would do it: 1) Disconnect all wires from alt. 2) Run 1/0 from alt to rear batteries 3) Run 1/0 from rear batteries to front battery 4) Take the wires removed from alt and hook to front battery. 5) Take sensing wire from alt and hook to front battery. This way the alt would look at the front battery which would have to charge through 1/0 to the rear and then through 1/0 to the alt. The alt would jack its output voltage going to the rear and back and would take care of all the voltage drops along the way. It would raise output by whatever the losses are and would possibly end up with 15V on the rear batteries. This is perfect and ideal for what we are trying to do. Thanks for bouncing ideas with me! We just invented something!!!!! 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Here's an idea, forget all this replacing wire bullshit. You have 136A MAX, you don't need dual 1/0 runs. Hers what you do. Get online or find a local salvage yard. Look for a 180A or 220A alt that came stock on the 2012-2014 Ram R/T. They were stock hairpin Denso units and are solid. They will shit on your 136A alt. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 The OPs question was about jacking the voltage and we figured out a way to eliminate all voltage drop issues. Its ok I always get a lot of push back on ideas that aren't mainstream. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 No, you're wasting the OPs money which I'm not about. Dual 1/0 runs are NOT needed when we are dealing with 136A of max possible output from the alt. The shittiest brand of 1/0 can cover that task. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Go back and re read. You missed the whole point. I quit. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Go back and re read. You missed the whole point. I quit. not to stick my nose into other peoples business, well actually that is what it is, you missed the point. 13.5v is just fine for charging voltage, the OP can just turn on his parklights or something if he wants more voltage. A high amp alt is a better idea, or even adding a second battery. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Go back and re read. You missed the whole point. I quit. I guess I did miss your point, whatever it was.My suggestion to look for a better OE alt is where the OP should start. Amperage is needed, not voltage. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I apologize to everyone and to the OP for jacking his thread. I guess I should have started a new thread with the new idea. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Here's an idea, forget all this replacing wire bullshit. You have 136A MAX, you don't need dual 1/0 runs. Hers what you do. Get online or find a local salvage yard. Look for a 180A or 220A alt that came stock on the 2012-2014 Ram R/T. They were stock hairpin Denso units and are solid. They will shit on your 136A alt. Sorry guys i been away from home all day. Should have known not to make a post and walk away thank you all for your input. Here is a noob question, in theory could i just have my 136 alt power my vehical electrical and have the 180 alt with an external voltage regulator installed run a spare battery for my amp ? So that way its two isolated electrical systems ? I have a magnum v8 in my 2nd gen dodge but i could get the dual battery boxes the diesels use and it will be a factory fit. At work i can make my own extra alt brackets and use a longer belt. In theory is this a good idea ? Or just get a bigger alt and strong battery to run everything and call it done ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 The OPs question was about jacking the voltage and we figured out a way to eliminate all voltage drop issues. Its ok I always get a lot of push back on ideas that aren't mainstream. Thats a good idea but my voltage drop from battery terminals to amp input is only .05 volts not a problem at all, my post was in the mornings my voltage is 14.45 volts on my gauge and afternoon its about 13.8 to 14 volts. I wanted to see about keeping my volts 14.4 or slight above all the time, i watched a video of steve meade installing a external regulator on a 300 amp (i believe) alt and cranked the regulator up to 15.2 volts and then he dynoed the guys amp and with the jacked up voltage he was able to put out a few hundred more watts compaired to the 300 amp HO on standard 14 volt charging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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