How to add 80prs USB extension cable to SMD single din bezel

[Broke_Audio_Addict]

This should give you a better idea of what I'm talking about.

[reedal]

Oh ok. So if I wanted to have all four sides of the filler around the bezel slant down and flush into the counter sink of the dash piece, just cut the card at the angle I want/need for the sides? That would be very detailed (as far as my filler skills), but I may try it.

[scooter99]

Why not just cut the dash piece the size of the meter panel. Flush it up and CA Glue the panel in there from behind so it stays in place. Rough up both parts and then Fill over the whole thing, sand and paint? Is there enough room behind the panel to do that?

Obviously you'd have to remove the meters and the knob to do that, but seems like it would be a much nicer transition than to try mount it on top and fill it in.

[reedal]

Why not just cut the dash piece the size of the meter panel. Flush it up and CA Glue the panel in there from behind so it stays in place. Rough up both parts and then Fill over the whole thing, sand and paint? Is there enough room behind the panel to do that?

Obviously you'd have to remove the meters and the knob to do that, but seems like it would be a much nicer transition than to try mount it on top and fill it in.

I could do that. There's PLENTY of room behind the panel by the way. There's a large pocket behind the bezel. I'm just unsure of how to do it, and have it come out not looking like trash. I think I'll try your way first scooter. Then if I don't like it, I can always pull the bezel and dig up the filler, put a layer of glass cloth down over the dash piece and try it Broke's way. I'll do a little cutting/fitting tonight and we'll see how it goes

[scooter99]

It's really as simple as it sounds.

Mark the exact size of the meter bezel or panel whatever you want to call it.

cut it out on the inside of the line. This way you can test fit, and sand off, and test fit, and sand off until you get a nice snug fit.

Make sure it's 100% flush mounted, smooth as it can be.

CA glue tack each back corner of the bezel. You would do this so when you body fill, and sand, you don't sand off the glue and risk it coming loose. Start at one corner, then if any adjustments are needed you can do it then. If it's perfect and you like it, then take the opposite corner. If all still looks good, then tack the other two corners.

Once the tacks have dried, usually a few seconds to a minute longest. Then run a bead along each side. Let all that dry.

Again you should have already removed the meters and knobs. If you're going to do your USB port thing, and you want to move your volume knob you could probably do that now and fill the old hole when you body fill. Just a suggestion.

Flip it over and sand everything, even the meter panel, with 80 grit as Broke suggested above.

Clean it off, blow off any excess. You want as little dust and sand shavings as possible so they don't streak your filler.

Fill it around the edges, and fill in your knob hole if you desire to move it with a thin layer. Let it get to green stage and sand it down.

You'll most likely need a second layer. So this is the rinse, repeat cycle so to speak. Just keep doing thin layers until you're happy with it.

Primer it with filler primer. Let it dry really good. Don't get over anxious on this part or it'll come out bad. The primer will allow you to see all the pin holes and blemishes. Find some spot filler and fill those.

Sand it with higher grit paper.

Then the painting process someone else will have to get in on. I'm not the best painter. To me, find an SEM paint to match your dash, and paint it. Sand it, paint it, sand it some more raising the grit level each time. I think that's the way it's done. someone with more painting experience than I have, which is most everyone, might want to correct that.

That's how I would do it anyway.

[reedal]

Thank you. I appreciate the tips. I'm headed home now, so soon it will be time to start cutting.

Well, first im going to put the USB slot in it, then I'll work on the fitment of the bezel in the pocket.

You guys really want me to move that knob up a little huh?

Once I get the USB cable centered below it like I want, I'll look at it and if I disagree with the knob placement, I may move it up. We'll see

[scooter99]

I thought you said you wanted to. That's why I threw that in.

[reedal]

Nahhh that was someone else saying too bad I had the knob centered cause I could have bought a premade circular female USB port and put it there

[reedal]

Alright. Here is the USB female extension getting mounted onto the SMD bezel.

First, I cut the tape to the size of the end that will be in the bezel

Then, I horizontally centered it underneath of the LC-1

i used a blade to mark the outside of the tape, then removed the tape, drilled a hole inside of the lines, then started filing

6475930262538263638392 strokes from 4 different files later (trying to find the one I felt was best suited) it's almost there!!

The finished filed hole

And what it looks like with the LC-1

I like it. I'm happy. Now to get started with the dash piece.....

Oh, here's where the double-pocketed dash piece sits scooter, for reference of how much space I have available to cut and flush the bezel. Maybe 6 inches at the top and 8-9 at the bottom?

Don't mind the dirt. I don't do any cleaning of the vehicles during winter. It's pointless. I don't understand the people at the car wash the day of and after the snow has melted off of the roads, because all the sand on the roads is just going right back on your car when you leave there. Ok. Sorry. End of the "oh look, a squirrel" moment.

Stay tuned.....

[scooter99]

Ok, nice start. If i were you, I'd find an adapter, female to female, and then you can attach it to the panel more permanently, and if (more so when) you change out your head unit all of the parts can come with it. Make sense? Adapter is like $5 maybe at a place like fry's or something like that. Best buy may have them too. Or order one online.

EDIT: Actually if I recall correctly, it's just an extension isn't it? The cable I mean. So it's like any other usb cable? If so then skip what i just said and maybe if you ever sell it include one or whatever.