Jhunt94 Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Alright so just to lay this out, I'm in the market for a good 6 channel amplifier. The reason that I want a 6 channel is because I want to run a full active setup in my car consisting of 2 tweeters, 2 mids up front and 2 in the back. The 6 channel amp, plus a processor,a mono block amp, and a sub box will be going in the trunk of a mustang so I want to use space conservatively. The original amplifier I was looking at was this one http://www.arcaudio.com/p/xdi-1200-6 my only concern is that the the channels listed are front, rear, and sub,but it does look like all of the channels are full range. So would this amp work for my application or would it be best to go a different rate? 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Yea it looks that way (that they are fullrange but I can't see if it has a LP/BP/HP switch for each set of channels I would have to see a better picture of it). I would still go with a normal 4 channel and a small mini 2 channel though just in case. The rockford/NVX/Alpine mini 4 or 2 channel would be perfect for some rear fill speakers. Two amps would allow you a lot more flexibility and peice of mind. What type of power do you want to put to the tweet/mid up front and the rear speakers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotorCityFats13 Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 strange that all 6 ch's are lowpass only?.... but all 6 ch's also have a 10x multiplyer..... looks like this amp would work fine if you use something else to set the crossovers... HU, DSP or active network..... ect.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhunt94 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 You may not can tell in the pictures but 1&2 and 5&6 have lp,hp,bp capabilities and 3&4 have lp,hp,ap capabilities. I plan on getting a dsp to run active. I'm looking at a Mosconi 6to8 right now. @aculous I had originally planned on a 4 channel+2 channel+ monoblock, but I'm just kind of worried about space, depending on how I design the layout. 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 You may not can tell in the pictures but 1&2 and 5&6 have lp,hp,bp capabilities and 3&4 have lp,hp,ap capabilities. I plan on getting a dsp to run active. I'm looking at a Mosconi 6to8 right now. @aculous I had originally planned on a 4 channel+2 channel+ monoblock, but I'm just kind of worried about space, depending on how I design the layout. I would go with the 4/2/1 setup. You can get it to fit in a small space too depending on power demands. Also it doesn't matter about the crossover on the amp if you running a DSP. Just make sure the frequency response of the amp is full range, as in it can do more then 50hz-500hz which it looks like the ARC could do but still I would go with a modest 4 channel. I mean 75watts would be clean/loud for a component set that has a sensitivity of like 90dB, the tweeter should be more like 100-105dB. For every 3dB you have to double the power. So the more sensitive a speaker is, typically the louder it will be. Xmax is also an issue but whatever that gets into the SPL part of it. (this is a rule of thumb and oversimplifies the issue...this guy explains it better then I can http://geoffthegreygeek.com/amplifier-power/ ) You could get a Amperage 125x4 for $400-420 + a rockford punch PBR300x2 $150 which would be $300 less then the ARC. For me the economics of running a 6 channel doesn't add up. And for space reasons I would look at the Alpine PDX-F4 which is $350 and the Rockford PBR300x2...you're out $500 if space is the issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jhunt94 Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Well the main reason for picking the ARC, is because I've been wanting to do a SQ style setup so I've been looking at ARC, Zapco, and ZED (Arc being the cheapest of the three). I haven't really decided what brand amps. I'm open to suggestions, I'm just trying to find some good SQ amps and with the ARC it would be cheaper for me to buy the 6 channel instead of buying an ARC 4 channel and 2 channel. I have read some really good reviews as to the quality and clarity that people have gotten from the ARC 1200.6 even though it's a class D amp, and people typically use A/B for SQ. 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Well the main reason for picking the ARC, is because I've been wanting to do a SQ style setup so I've been looking at ARC, Zapco, and ZED (Arc being the cheapest of the three). I haven't really decided what brand amps. I'm open to suggestions, I'm just trying to find some good SQ amps and with the ARC it would be cheaper for me to buy the 6 channel instead of buying an ARC 4 channel and 2 channel. I have read some really good reviews as to the quality and clarity that people have gotten from the ARC 1200.6 even though it's a class D amp, and people typically use A/B for SQ. OK that changes things. Right ARC is good quality but so is any brand that puts out clean power...I would go Class-AB power instead of Class-D for both price and distortion figures. Class-D topology has come a LONG way but I think it still has some inherent flaws. Really your amp isn't going to shit for SQ overall except if you use its internal crossovers or if it introduces distortion. The amp should be a completely inert component IMHO. I just bought the (2) Zapco SQ 4channels, the ST series and they are pretty small and sound good. Both of them came in under $200. Build quality is on par with most korean style amps. I would stay away from zed just because of quality control issues, seems that a lot of people have had issues with them. Thats just from my obersvations, never owned one. Driver selection and processor are secondary to speaker placement but thats not an amp question, I would start a thread in the SQ section to plan out your build and get some ideas if you're open to it. White Lightning and others will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Anything clean and within price range. I don't agree on the zed comment as I've only had great experience with all of their mikro amp and the Minotaur. They are expensive but they don't make tons of amps so from my experience it seems like they're on their shyt. Zed mikros though not sure who has anymore. They seem to be out from my source Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Anything clean and within price range. I don't agree on the zed comment as I've only had great experience with all of their mikro amp and the Minotaur. They are expensive but they don't make tons of amps so from my experience it seems like they're on their shyt. Zed mikros though not sure who has anymore. They seem to be out from my source Yea I was wondering if people were running them out of spec too when they were having issues. As in running them at 1ohm instead of the rated minimum of 2 or not supplying enough voltage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted January 28, 2016 Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 I blew one. My fault though. Ground was loose on rear battery, reconnected it but didn't actually pay attention and somehow blew to protect. I know less than a handful that tried to wire to 1ohm but not successful. Boi damage to amp though. Wonder if extended time could be a problem. But if your getting these amps you shouldn't be power pinching at least you wouldn't think so Anything clean and within price range. I don't agree on the zed comment as I've only had great experience with all of their mikro amp and the Minotaur. They are expensive but they don't make tons of amps so from my experience it seems like they're on their shyt. Zed mikros though not sure who has anymore. They seem to be out from my source Yea I was wondering if people were running them out of spec too when they were having issues. As in running them at 1ohm instead of the rated minimum of 2 or not supplying enough voltage. Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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