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I plan on doing the big 3 with my stock alt. It's rated at 95 amps, so for the positive wire form the alt to battery would it be better to use a 100a or 150a fuse? Also, what size fuse would I use for the power run from the battery under the hood to the one I'll have in the back?

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Some people fuse the alt to the battery but most do not. What size wire to the back? What amps? You will need a fuse at the back battery as well as the front in case of an accident, the cable will need to self disconnect if pinched.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I would DEFINATLY fuse the alternator. My truck runs the alt power wire into the distribution block and is fused 140 amp in the distribution block. Ur ALT should be fused in ur distribution block. If there isnt one factory for the 95 amp alt i would use a 100 amp fuse. Off ur front main batter i would prolly fuse 150 amp and at the rear fuse 150 amp. Try to keep ur fuses as close to ur batteries as possible. I dont know what shadetree is talking about the cable needs to self disconnect if pinched. If u have a short in ur alt or battery power cable the fuse(s) will pop in effort to proctect ur electrical system. What size amp do u have and power and ground cables ? That will play part of the roll in what size fuse u should use but i prolly would still fuse for the suggested ratings mentioned.

***edit for spelling***

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If the cable between the batteries is pinched then both fuses at each battery will blow to disconnect the short.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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If the cable between the batteries is pinched then both fuses at each battery will blow to disconnect the short.

Ok that makes more sense i know the fuses will blow, i thought u might be talking about one of those circut breakers when u said disconnect.

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I'll be running 2/0 welding cable, and my amp is a 2000w RMS Soundstream amp with a total of 175a. And I would put a 150a fuse right by the hood battery for the wire going to the back battery and also place a fuse close to that second battery all on the same run of wire?

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Correct. Two fuses on same wire.

I was working on an install in the early 90s on a Toyota 4 runner for a customer. It was a tough sell to convince him to put a breaker at the back battery. Four months later the truck came back smashed in the side. Then he wanted us to salvage the wiring that was smashed inside the body panels and un removable.......

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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I'll be running 2/0 welding cable, and my amp is a 2000w RMS Soundstream amp with a total of 175a. And I would put a 150a fuse right by the hood battery for the wire going to the back battery and also place a fuse close to that second battery all on the same run of wire?

Damn 2/0 just for 2000 watt amp ? 1/0 would have been a better choice but to each its own, atleast u wont have to upgrade ur wiring in the future when u get a higher wattage amp. Going a size or two bigger than what is needed isnt gonna help or hinder anything, its just wasting money because u gain nothing.

Since it sounds like u havent bought the wire yet, IF u were to ask my opinion i would say that 1/0 is a better choice. 1/0 can carry 400 amps under 25' and usually people base the gauge wire they need of off how big of the amp they have. Using 2/0 is a thick ass cable and wont give you any improvment over 1/0 for this particular install. If u wish to use 2/0 go ahead :) for me i would just use 1/0 and the saved money i have now would go to a volt meter or something else.

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I have a 1500 watt amp powering my two 15's and im personally only using 2ga royal excelence welding cable, its rated like 300 amps under 25' or some where around there, obiously the longer the cable the less amp carrying capacity u have thats why welding cable has a chart to show u what amps at what feet. My run is only like 10 feet in my dodge truck.

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like everyone says... welding cable holds to the AWG standards but car audio cable is oversized because it does not have to follow these same standards... so getting 2/0 is like 1/0 audio cable.. 2awg is like 4awg and so on.... most people do not fuse the alt wire because its a short run that does not go around pinch points unlike the main power run that was not designed to be there in the first place and might passthrough danger zones.... some alts shut down if they sense a short others do not so these ones would need 2 fuses "good luck finding out how yours works" just run the wire in a common sense location and tie it up away from everything.... everytime a cable makes contact with a battery + it needs a fuse unless you are say adding 3 rear batterys and those are connected with buss bars or very short cables that cant get pinched

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