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10" Sub Advice Needed


Onelowgreek

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OK, I can see how the mounting depth would change things.

As far as the RMS rating difference goes, there is no reason you can't run the V2 on on 500 watts like you were planning to with the V1 sub. There isn't going to be any audible difference between the two just based on the difference in power rating alone.

Looking at the specs for the two, the V2 has higher QTS would should make it perform better in a sealed application anyway. Inverting the sub will get you more internal box space, which should further improve the performance of the sub.

If it were me, I'd just run the sub inverted if you can find a way to make that work, and just use the amp you were originally intending to. I think you would be better off that way than you would have with the V1 sub anyway.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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OK, I can see how the mounting depth would change things.

As far as the RMS rating difference goes, there is no reason you can't run the V2 on on 500 watts like you were planning to with the V1 sub. There isn't going to be any audible difference between the two just based on the difference in power rating alone.

Looking at the specs for the two, the V2 has higher QTS would should make it perform better in a sealed application anyway. Inverting the sub will get you more internal box space, which should further improve the performance of the sub.

If it were me, I'd just run the sub inverted if you can find a way to make that work, and just use the amp you were originally intending to. I think you would be better off that way than you would have with the V1 sub anyway.

I mean deep down inside I want to keep the sub and run my Hifonics amp which is 900 watts at 2 ohms, would 4 gauge wiring be good for 12-14 ft. run?

Would end up costly me less since I can return the Alpine amp I just bought an buy cables as needed to make the Hifonics amp work.

What do you think?

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I'm not a car electrical expert, but if it's good OFC wire I think you should be fine running 900 watts on 4 gauge wire.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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I'm not a car electrical expert, but if it's good OFC wire I think you should be fine running 900 watts on 4 gauge wire.

It's 4 gauge welding cable so I think I should be good to go...

I doubt you will hear much of a difference between the two amps. I bet the alpine would sound cleaner and be just as loud. On my SE 10 sealed I went from a JL 500/1 to a Rockford P1000X1D pushing almost double the RMS of that sub and it didn't get that much louder.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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I'm not a car electrical expert, but if it's good OFC wire I think you should be fine running 900 watts on 4 gauge wire.

It's 4 gauge welding cable so I think I should be good to go...

I doubt you will hear much of a difference between the two amps. I bet the alpine would sound cleaner and be just as loud. On my SE 10 sealed I went from a JL 500/1 to a Rockford P1000X1D pushing almost double the RMS of that sub and it didn't get that much louder.

Should I just keep the alpine amp and run with that? Less draw on my electrical system which is a plus

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why would you need longer power wires..... just run longer speaker cables.... 12awg ofc speaker cable can flow alot more power than you plan on running and a little longer will not rob anything noticeable

I plan on running 8ga speaker wire since I have a shit load of it

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